Man of Honour
What's the best process to multimeter them? before and after charge to see how much power is on them? or do you mean the charge itself?
errrr, that's a complex question. the XM-L is probably the most practical LED to use in a P60 dropin for maximum brightness, but the SST-50 and SST-90 LED's theoretically offer higher brightness...
XM-L's probably still your best bet though. Of course, it does depend on which dropin you choose... they vary considerably.
Cheers for the info Aod.
Hello Mate,
It depends what you need the UV dropin for.
if you're looking to be fluorescing *bodily fluids*, then no UV dropins on the market at the moment currently dip low enough into the UV spectrum - you need around 365nm for that.
if what you're trying to fluoresce is a material that is commonly regarded as fluorescent (like Dayglo objects, highlighter/"UV ink" etc), then just about any of them will do.
the WF-502B you linked to uses a 18650 cell for power, i assume that this means that you're also using a 18650? if so, that's good, because most of the UV dropins i've seen are 4.2V max.
http://solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=RB&s=11&id=44
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/1w-390...wf-502b-and-flashlights-alike-3-6v-4-2v-16694
http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=9046
http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=10572
http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=11095
take your pick really, i have no information on the specific wavelengths emitted by any of them though, so caveat emptor etc...
There was a guy on CandlePowerForums who made UV dropin modules which used the top-of-the-line Nichia UV emitters, but the emitters were over $100 each, so there wasn't much demand for the modules and he's now out of stock on the emitters, and won't get more in until there's enough demand for them.
I recently found a site selling supposed 365nm UV LED's for quite reasonable prices, but i need to investigate that further.
<edit>
Hold up hold up, i've found a review of this Kaidomain UV Light, Here which has a photo which shows it fluorescing the color-strip on a banknote, this suggests that it's much lower wavelength than the cheap 395-400nm lights - i'd say that's a good one to go for. it probably wont light up *fluids* but banknotes, passports and credit cards should light up nicely.
that's not unusual apparently - because the switch-retention-ring rubs against the rear-edge of the body tube...
Charger Just Arrived btw - i bought an Xtar WP2
Not a Problem, glad to be of assistanceMuch appreciate the informative help thanks Aod![]()
Ah how does it differ to the ultrafire charger?
What's the best process to multimeter them? before and after charge to see how much power is on them? or do you mean the charge itself?
the voltage the charger charges the cells at is somewhat irrelevant, their voltage is determined by their charge state and chemistry. the charger should be charging them at around 4.5v... ish.
i mean, checking the charger voltage once to ensure it's not one of the old-style ones that charged the batteries at 13v is a good idea - those tended to cause explosions.
Incorrect - a true cc/cv (constant current/constant voltage) charger - as reconmended by the manufacturers, should never exceed 4.2v when charging.
A CC/CV charger should start charging at say 600ma all the time (constant current) the voltages are rising - say 3.6v to 4.2v over time. Once the voltage of the cell reaches 4.2v then the charger should switch to constant voltage and then the current drops off to zero over time.