Spec me an LED Torch

I never doubted you :D

I did some current draw measurements on it; High: 1.15A, Medium: 500mA, Low: 100mA

So on low it should run for a good 20 hours on a healthy 18650
 
Quick mod to my new XTAR charger as the + side of my AW cell is recessed and wouldn't make contact.

I can't quite believe I found a small bolt that was the exact right sized thread :p.

r988Z.jpg
 
Well I've got a C8 and four batteries sitting here all at 3.5V...however no charger yet, so that's on its way along with another C8 for the handlebars. Waiting for a charger to turn up when you have a new torch sitting there is making me squirm somewhat!

As for multimeters, I got a very cheap one on a deal from Screwfix several years ago that is still going strong. In case anyone doesn't know how to test a 18650 battery voltage, here's an artist's impression!

jA8MAl.jpg

(Except I normally lay the test pins flat, not sure if this is necessary or even correct).

Regarding how to test it under load, that's beyond me I'm afraid but I'm sure someone can advise.

Regarding monitoring when you batteries are reaching 3.5V, personally I'm just going to recharge them pretty often as once you've gone to the faff of getting them out of the torch, you might as well just stick them in the charger (unless you need them of course).

Final point; I'm confused as to why the C8 only pulls 1.15A on high? Seems low, maybe not.
 
Oh, another thing - those of us with a lot of flashlights - do you go through buying and selling phases?

I've spent a bit recently (Mcgizmo Haiku XML the main expenditure) and as such it's pushed some other lights out of use - for example my 4Sevens Maelstrom G5 isn't getting much use atm so that's going up for sale.

I think I only ever have about 10-15 flashlights in my possession but I've probably bought near 50 over the last couple of years. The "oldest" light in my possession is an ITP EOS 3 on the Westfields keyring.

Whats your "oldest" LED flashlight?
 
Most of my stuff has now arrived, and to say I'm impressed with the Ultrafire WF-502B would be an understatement :eek:. It's bloody bright, and also seems to be screwed together remarkably well for the frankly ludicrous price most people pay for it. I have another on its way for the bike helmet.

TclSJ.jpg

M1N7R.jpg

CxuwT.jpg

  • 4 x SenyBor 2800mAh 18650 batteries + case - £25 from UK eBayer big_f_d_d
  • Ultrafire WF-502B (Cree XM-L T6) - £8.61 from Hong Kong eBayer asiastanley
  • Xtar WP2 II battery charger - £12.03 from Hong Kong eBayer pangelectronics6988

Total cost for the two batteries needed to run one flashlight as well as the flashlight and charger = £33.14. My Fenix LD20 Q5, which is less bright by a good margin, cost something like £45 iirc :o.

The batteries were all bang on 4.17 volts when the charger went green. Is this normal / ok? The gap between the 'U' and the 'l' makes me think it's a copy of a copy, but I don't really care as it's so awesome and cheap.

Beam shots (attempted) to follow. I cycled out last night to get fish and chips and cars were waiting at junctions when I was still miles away; must have thought I was a motorbike.
 
Last edited:
The batteries were all bang on 4.17 volts when the charger went green. Is this normal / ok?

That's fine.

Most people expect the charge to terminate at 4.2v everytime - that rarely happens, even my Pila IBC terminated new batteries at 4.18v (btw, over time as batteries age and internal resistance increases the termination voltage will be less and less - if they terminate at 4.1v or below - time to get shot of the cells).

Charging under 4.2v = good. Charging above 4.2v - bad. If anyone has a charger that does this I strongly suggest you get another charger.
 
Back
Top Bottom