Stud wall help

sigma

sigma

sigma

Caporegime
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13 Nov 2006
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I've ripped off board from one side of a stud wall in a shower room, the other side of the wall is in a bedroom, with board still attached. I had given up on it but trying to find someone to finish it off is proving to be difficult.

The stud wall is not plumb nor level and is bowed in the middle, vertically and horizontally.

The studs are not parellel enough to put board on, as they drift apart, so not quite 600mm apart.

I thought I could even it all out using spacers but I need to add more studs due to them not being at the correct distance required to fit boards, when doing this the bowedness of the wall starts causing mayhem.

Approximately 1/4 of the new wall will be tiled for a shower enclosure.

I can see only two options:
  1. Build a new stud wall within the existing wall but protruding, with liberal use of spacers in places I can't fid new stud (like the edges of the wall).
  2. Knock down the wall and start again, this is going to cause a lot more work.

Any other ideas?

Just how even/level does this **** need to be? It's been a while but I recall reading for tiling it needs to be way less than 10mm top to bottom?
 
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Option 1 sounds like the most sensible from a DIY perspective as it'll give you the end result you need still.

I think even a slight bow could end up being very obvious particularly when tiled as the lighting in the room can reveal it even more.
 
Just sister up the battens with something straight. Will make diagram when home...
 
Crap pic but hopefully you get the idea.

DadfnqV.jpg

Black is current wonky stud

Highlighter is new stud, attached along the full height of existing stud --- levelled with the face of the most outward bit of the existing stud.

CLS is like 3 quid a length now so go to town and throw them in wherever you need them.
 
dlockers said:
Crap pic but hopefully you get the idea.


Black is current wonky stud

Highlighter is new stud, attached along the full height of existing stud --- levelled with the face of the most outward bit of the existing stud.

CLS is like 3 quid a length now so go to town and throw them in wherever you need them.
Click to expand...

And remove old noggins otherwise there will be a gap?

Interestingly, one guy has come back and will quote this week, so let's see what he comes back with to take it form here to finished product.
 
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sigma said:
And remove old noggins otherwise there will be a gap?

Interestingly, one guy has come back and will quote this week, so let's see what he comes back with to take it form here to finished product.
Click to expand...
Post a pic of the wall. It can't be that bad.
 
dlockers said:
Crap pic but hopefully you get the idea.

DadfnqV.jpg

Black is current wonky stud

Highlighter is new stud, attached along the full height of existing stud --- levelled with the face of the most outward bit of the existing stud.

CLS is like 3 quid a length now so go to town and throw them in wherever you need them.
Click to expand...
Yes just make sure the cls is straight.... wickes very poor. Also great schematic.
 
MassiveJim said:
10mm is nothing, if you're really bothered then you could just put new studs into the existing wall that overhang the baseplate and/or top plate by 10mm.

Personally I wouldn't bother though for 10mm,
Click to expand...
Ah, well I'll put a board up to it and see what the gap is because I'm probably (definitely) being a noob.
 
Right, the builder has gone AWOL, sick of waiting so the plan is to have a go at this again, ideally spend the whole of Monday on it...

This is the wall in question, photo skewed slightly as I had to zoom out on camera in order to get a good photo:

Dp87LVD.jpg



This is showing the variance in distance between studs:

dCtJZap.jpg


When holding board against centre top of the wall, the bottom of the boar is out by this much:

P7FtIim.jpg



When holding a straight edge/level from top right hand corner, at diagnoal to bottom left corner:

j671fBa.jpg


I have reduced that somewhat by using spacers but just want to show what I'm working with here.

Level top to bottom, flush at top of wall, but bottom is out:

sLg59Dw.jpg



Horizontally it's out by this much:

j8C2lUI.jpg



So, my plan is to put new stud work in, I've already got a couple cut, when put flush against the plasterboard on the other side of the wall it sticks out by this much:

Top of stud:

AEFLHlA.jpg



Bottom of stud:

0Txy1Tl.jpg


This means I'll have to space out the noggins, right?

Thoughts please? @dlockers @MassiveJim @zuludawn @Buffman @200sols @Ogoshi

I have built a stud wall before and it wasn't as simple as I think it should be. Should I buy a proper sliding mitre saw rather than using jigsaw or circular?
 
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Sister the vertical studs and then throw noggings in wherever they need to go. Doesn't need to look pretty you just need to work at pace. Throw in more wood than you need, it isn't expensive and avoids wasting time overthinking.

Ideally you don't want spacers as you'll end up with voids behind the boards. Just batten over the top off.
 
dlockers said:
Sister the vertical studs and then throw noggings in wherever they need to go. Doesn't need to look pretty you just need to work at pace. Throw in more wood than you need, it isn't expensive and avoids wasting time overthinking.

Ideally you don't want spacers as you'll end up with voids behind the boards. Just batten over the top off.
Click to expand...
So on the "top of the stud" pic above, would rip a strip of batten and stick it on the old wood?
 
sigma said:
So on the "top of the stud" pic above, would rip a strip of batten and stick it on the old wood?
Click to expand...
Can you afford the space? You could just put a new top piece on over the top of what it is there. It'll cost you whatever the smallest dimension of your CLS is but might make it all a lot easier.
 
dlockers said:
Can you afford the space? You could just put a new top piece on over the top of what it is there. It'll cost you whatever the smallest dimension of your CLS is but might make it all a lot easier.
Click to expand...
No space to double up, the door is really close to the wall :( don't have the tools to rip a small strip either, it would have to match the contour of the old wood as well, I don't have the tools to do it.

Hence why one option is to take down the entire wall and start again :o
 
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