Stud wall help

I've just thought, I was envisioning trying to rip an entire 2400mm length but there's nothing to say I can't break it down into smaller bits.

Feels like this will take me two days to do :o not sure I have much choice though.
 
sigma said:
What about planing the studs straight(er)? Take out the bow that way?
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Yeah you can plane them out. Hell, I watch some american builders who hatchet it out :cry:

You aren't looking for bang on, just enough. And then your issue about studs not lining up is a nothing burger, just add more studs.
 
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Looks like Wickes wood! And it's been shoddily constructed. It has been constructed in place, which is never a good way of doing things. Especially if they aren't very good at laying things out before construction.
I think you have two choices. You can add additional screws or nails to get it a bit more solid and then lay some 1"x2" quality timber over the top with spacers to get it nice and flat. The more spacers and screws you put in the better and you can use a foaming glue like PU glue to take up some gaps. You could just use spacers screwed to the wood but you have to mark where they are when you fit the plasterboard. And you will need a lot of them.
Or, you can just knock it down, get decent studs and do it properly.
Personally, I would correct it, even though its fiddly, it's less of a mess.
 
MassiveJim said:
just sister the existing studs, then use packers/spacers on the top/bottom plate.

You'll have it done this way in 2 hours or less if you crack on
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Like this?

TFH1pB5h.jpg
 
MassiveJim said:
just sister the existing studs, then use packers/spacers on the top/bottom plate.

You'll have it done this way in 2 hours or less if you crack on
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Using spacers does seem like the easier option but what about the voids they will cause? That @dlockers refers to.

Could fill them with adhesive/sealant?

2hrs! It takes me that long to set everything up (plus a tea break after setting up :o)
 
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SpellowHouse said:
Looks like Wickes wood! And it's been shoddily constructed. It has been constructed in place, which is never a good way of doing things. Especially if they aren't very good at laying things out before construction.
I think you have two choices. You can add additional screws or nails to get it a bit more solid and then lay some 1"x2" quality timber over the top with spacers to get it nice and flat. The more spacers and screws you put in the better and you can use a foaming glue like PU glue to take up some gaps. You could just use spacers screwed to the wood but you have to mark where they are when you fit the plasterboard. And you will need a lot of them.
Or, you can just knock it down, get decent studs and do it properly.
Personally, I would correct it, even though its fiddly, it's less of a mess.
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Ah, PU glue for the gaps.

Good tips there, thanks.

Regarding laying things out before construction, if you look at the first photo the shower pipes are a bit of a shambles, I did consider getting them redone, still might do as I want to redo some of the flooring.
 
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sigma said:
Not quite as simple because there are existing noggins there also.

I did think about removing existing noggins but the board on the other side of the wall is screwed into them.
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Yeah true. But you don't need to use a floor to floor piece of stud in terms of length. You can just use sections that are say 2 feet long. As long as you have a nice long spirit level and/or flat edge it would be doable. You could pack out on the gaps left between noggins as well if you are worried about a void and/or screwing the new plasterboard into. You could also use a string bob thing and pull the string across the room horizontally like brickies do, to see a common line you are working to if need be?
 
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Just sister them proud enough that you can attach a piece of strip wood to the top vs. trying to cut down a piece of CLS. All I trying to avoid is the plasterboard going limp at the join to the ceiling by providing full length support.

I guess you could whack a generous amount of grip fill at the top and just sister vertically. You could sister horizontally at the top and at least have support/somewhere to nail an inch or so below the ceiling level.
 
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jaybee said:
YmYou could also use a string bob thing and pull the string across the room horizontally like brickies do, to see a common line you are working to if need be?
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Great tip - when I thought I'd leveled it the first time I used a laser line as a reference point to measure from.

I saw someone use the string method for dot n dab, which I have to do on the adjacent wall, didn't think to do that on this wall! Thanks.
 
dlockers said:
Just sister them proud enough that you can attach a piece of strip wood to the top vs. trying to cut down a piece of CLS. All I trying to avoid is the plasterboard going limp at the join to the ceiling by providing full length support.

I guess you could whack a generous amount of grip fill at the top and just sister vertically. You could sister horizontally at the top and at least have support/somewhere to nail an inch or so below the ceiling level.
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Yeah I'll do whatever I can to ensure the screws are at the required distance.
 
I would remove the noggins and then fill and paint the wall on the other side. Pita but full height studs would be better, if you don't fancy that then the previous suggestion of fitting half height studs in-between the noggins is OK.

As for the question about spacers, just screw them to the top plate at 6 inch intervals then use a healthy amount of something like gripfill inbetween
 
MassiveJim said:
I would remove the noggins and then fill and paint the wall on the other side. Pita but full height studs would be better, if you don't fancy that then the previous suggestion of fitting half height studs in-between the noggins is OK.

As for the question about spacers, just screw them to the top plate at 6 inch intervals then use a healthy amount of something like gripfill inbetween
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Good shout, this is probably the cleanest way to do it, best of a bad situation.

I'll have to add new noggins in anyway and there aren't that many old ones to remove, just need to be careful when removing.

I think a plan is forming now, thanks all.

Will update once I've cut through the entire wall and those water pipes :D
 
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sigma said:
Ah, PU glue for the gaps.

Good tips there, thanks.

Regarding laying things out before construction, if you look at the first photo the shower pipes are a bit of a shambles, I did consider getting them redone, still might do as I want to redo some of the flooring.
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It's tricky, isn't? It's just not well done.

I think it all comes down to whether you want to impact the other room. No doubt that just pulling it out and doing it again would be the quickest and best way, but sheesh, what a kerfuffle.

Oh, and Everbuild do a 310ml tube of PU glue, and it's gel like. Wont run all over the place. I think it's called lumberjack.
 
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dlockers said:
Have you finished it yet sigma? It's 10am lad
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soon.gif

I've been buying supplies all weekend, tomorrow is the day, a whole day allocated to the wall.

I'm tempted to cut the wood using a hand saw which will also add time and effort, but will save running up and down the stairs every 5 minutes. Also my Ryobi jigsaw seems to be cutting on the **** so using a jig to get a straight cut is difficult.


Will keep you posted...
 
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