Stud wall help

I once laid wooden flooring and cut all that by hand, swore never to do it again!

I think I'm short on wood as well but let's see!
 
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Yeah, fresh blade did the job, although my keyboard-honed hands are feeling it now. Lesson there is that I probably need to do more of this stuff, good job there's plenty left to do...

Nogs removed, studs loosely in place but I'm leaving the straightening and plumbing for another day. The studs are fairly plumb but can't quite get it straight; no mean feat.

XLhm121.jpg



Also, a closeup of some amazing workmanship:

LlOB1Yx.jpg


Turd time's a charm.jpeg
 
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Yeah looks fine. Cls can be brought back into shape too, so tack it all at the top then work down.
 
dlockers said:
Yeah looks fine. Cls can be brought back into shape too, so tack it all at the top then work down.
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Yeah, I'll square up a laser line to the back wall and then set it all level to that, with the new protruding distance being set to the minimum required amount.

The Magnusson spirit levels are OK but for more accurate work I'd like a bigger bubble. I guess it's not surprising, cheaper tools not being quite as good.
 
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sigma said:
Yeah, I'll square up a laser line to the back wall and then set it all level to that, with the new protruding distance being set to the minimum required amount.
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Just look down the length of the CLS you have to understand where it is bowed already; gives you a headstart.
 
sigma said:
Yeah, I'll square up a laser line to the back wall and then set it all level to that, with the new protruding distance being set to the minimum required amount.

The Magnusson spirit levels are OK but for more accurate work I'd like a bigger bubble. I guess it's not surprising, cheaper tools not being quite as good.
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Get a decent level, my cheap screwfix one nearly caused a fight with the builder for my bathroom lol.
 
dlockers said:
Or pickup the titan thing for 50 quid.
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Is it going to be any good for £50? I read people having issues with the ones that cost £200. Plus it's going to be a pain to store, due to size.

One thing I might do is buy a sander so I can get the noggins to fight snug.
 
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sigma said:
Is it going to be any good for £50? I read people having issues with the ones that cost £200. Plus it's going to be a pain to store, due to size.

One thing I might do is buy a sander so I can get the noggins to fight snug.
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If it's the titan mitre saw, the cheapest one is garbage. I returned it and bought an evolution R210 SMS.
 
Janesy B said:
If it's the titan mitre saw, the cheapest one is garbage. I returned it and bought an evolution R210 SMS.
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It is perfect for cutting CLS down and small enough to move right by the job, versus the Evolution (which I also have).
 
sigma said:
Is it going to be any good for £50? I read people having issues with the ones that cost £200. Plus it's going to be a pain to store, due to size.

One thing I might do is buy a sander so I can get the noggins to fight snug.
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Just use a screw in the nogging near the end and use a hammer to pull the noggins level as if youre trying to remove the screw. Once it’s level fire a couple of nails screws in to hold it in place.

Then remove the screw from the noggin.

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The evolution mitres from screwfix are good for the money. Get one and you’ll be sorted for the future too.
 
Reuben klang said:
Just use a screw in the nogging near the end and use a hammer to pull the noggins level as if youre trying to remove the screw. Once it’s level fire a couple of nails screws in to hold it in place.

Then remove the screw from the noggin.

-

The evolution mitres from screwfix are good for the money. Get one and you’ll be sorted for the future too.
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Good shout.

I was also thinking snuggness in terms of width/length in between the studs. I can only ever seem to get it super tight, so the stud moves slightly when fitting or slightly too loose so I need to shim, even a wafer thin one. Can never quite get it to be 100%, or when I can it's by fluke/miracle. Hoping hand saw adds some accuracy here.

I guess the answer is to get a mitre :D I mean I'm not bad, I also need to accept it doesn't need to be perfect. It's also why it takes so long, usually do each cut twice!
 
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Nah, sod the hand saws. Just get a mitre and play around with it to get the acuracy. Stick a bit of tape over the section where the blade goes and cut through it. You’ll know know exactly where the blade will cut.

It’s a bit more difficult to quickly tell on the cheaper mitres but well doing that extra stage to get you more comfortable with it it’s more so with angle cuts but you’ll get it pretty quickly. :D
 
You don't even need it snug, you aren't putting in jack's or whatever to support anything. Cut it shortish and screw it in.
 
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