Stud wall help

[sigma]

Nah, sod the hand saws. Just get a mitre and play around with it to get the acuracy. Stick a bit of tape over the section where the blade goes and cut through it. You’ll know know exactly where the blade will cut.

It’s a bit more difficult to quickly tell on the cheaper mitres but well doing that extra stage to get you more comfortable with it it’s more so with angle cuts but you’ll get it pretty quickly.

Well, there are plenty of projects in mind, fitted wardrobes would be good, maybe a kitchen also... so I think a mitre would come in handy...

...let's do this small room first though at current rate of progress it's a 5 year plan

 

[Janesy B]

It is perfect for cutting CLS down and small enough to move right by the job, versus the Evolution (which I also have).

Then you may as well get the £40 circular saw and use a set square as a straight edge. I couldn't get a clean bevel cut out of it, and not being able to go past 45 degrees was a PITA. Would be ok for doing panelling and small trim I guess.

 

[Deleted User 298457]

Would be ok for doing panelling and small trim I guess.

Or doing first fix cuts on CLS lol.

But yeah it's garbage but its dirt cheap and saves hand sawing wood.

 

[sigma]

Then you may as well get the £40 circular saw and use a set square as a straight edge.

That's what I did when I built my first wall (although saw wasn't that cheap). Then switched to jigsaw because it felt less likely to chop my fingers off. Now I've gone one step further to hand saw and I do think it's the best option, for me at least. Minimal mess, no wires or batteries and more control. Be at one with the wood

 

[Lean]

You'll be able to hear a mouse fart through that wall. Ive never understood 3x2 walls. Go 4x2, double board both sides for 150mm and get some sound batts.Solid construction

 

[sigma]

You'll be able to hear a mouse fart through that wall. Ive never understood 3x2 walls. Go 4x2, double board both sides for 150mm and get some sound batts.Solid construction

You're right, and I agree with you 100%.

However, it's one wall of many, so I'd have to do them all, and I don't have the space to extend this specific wall out by much either.

Easier to move, which is the plan.

 

[Lean]

I understand and I didnt want to come across as a dick. For me any stud wall should be more than just a visual partition. It has to limit sound transfer. Some new builds where you hear everything are terrible.

 

[MassiveJim]

I understand and I didnt want to come across as a dick. For me any stud wall should be more than just a visual partition. It has to limit sound transfer. Some new builds where you hear everything are terrible.

In our current house the stud walls are built using 4 sheets of plasterboard sandwiched together with the odd 2x2 thrown in.

 

[Reuben klang]

I understand and I didnt want to come across as a dick. For me any stud wall should be more than just a visual partition. It has to limit sound transfer. Some new builds where you hear everything are terrible.

Better to do a staggered stud wall. Then the timber isn’t connected right through to both sides of the plasterboard wall and will significantly reduce the sound traveling more so than 4x2 with both sides connected to the same bit of timber. Could even put the blue plasterboard up as well.

Then you’re only increasing the depth of the wall by 20mm or so over his current size and would be much better. Cost more though because you’re using at least 2x the amount of CLS and soundshield plasterboard is 2x the price of normal plasterboard.

If you’re doing it, you may as well do it right though