Stupidly High CPU Temps

Disco_P · 5 Sep 2014 at 22:40

So I have a GPU CPU loop set up as follows:

NZXT H440
2550K/3570K @ stock
GTX 780 @ 1200Mhz 1.2v
EK LTX Nickel Plexi
EK FC-780 GTX Ti - Nickel
EK FC-780 GTX Ti Backplate - Black
Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 240mm
Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 360mm
About 1.2m Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT
EK D5 Vario X-Res 140
3x EK Nickel Compression fittings
3x EK Nickel plated brass barbs
4x Alphacool rotary barbs

On the GPU side everything works great, temps rarely exceed 60C under full load and that hefty overvolt whilst the case is closed and fans are silent.

But the CPU cooling simply does not work.
At stock under Intel Burn test load, the 2550K gets to around 70C and the 3570K reaches 75C. All the while the temperature of the water doesn't exceed 25C, the rads feel cool to the touch and the block itself feels no warmer than at idle/off.

So I know that the problem lies in the heat exchange between the Intel IHS and the block itself. But is this normal? I have mounted and remounted the block, always cleaning it and the CPU thoroughly and using Noctua NT-H1. The GPU staying cool shows that the pump, rads and reservoirs are working. Monitoring the Vcore shows nothing abnormal and when using my old NH-D14 cooler I would expect temps of around 70C when pushing my high overclocks.

I assume the 50C delta between CPU and water means that the block isn't working. Is there a solution other that doing an RMA?

setter · 5 Sep 2014 at 22:53

75c on the 3570k is actually not too bad. Theese like haswell chips have paste instead of solder below the ihs therefore heat transfer is poor.

Bart_Hunt · 5 Sep 2014 at 22:55

Did you try different tim?
Like clu?
How old is your cpu?
It might as well be degrading...

Disco_P · 5 Sep 2014 at 23:01

It wouldn't be if the CPU wasn't on a WC loop and I didn't get the same results with a 2550K (sandy bridge - i.e. soldered).

Also compare it to tests done on the stock cooler

3C drop in degrees is a little underwhelming

Disco_P · 5 Sep 2014 at 23:08

Bart_Hunt said:
Did you try different tim?
Like clu?
How old is your cpu?
It might as well be degrading...

I tried both the NT-H1 from Noctua and the stuff that comes with the block (Supposedly Gelid GC-Extreme)

Not really sure what CLU is (possible typo?)

My 2550K is 2 years old and the 3570K I got 2nd hand but cannot be more than 2 years old and according to the previous owner was only used in a media PC for the last year.

They *might* both be degrading but I would not place money on 2 CPUs both be going southside this rapidly.

setter · 5 Sep 2014 at 23:11

On ivy/haswell water cooling makes virtually zero difference over air cooling, particularly with high stress programs like ibt. 3 haswell i7's I've owned have all been very hot runners. Hence why people delid ivy/haswell and replace the stock paste with liquid metal. 20c temp drops are pretty common after doing this.

Disco_P · 5 Sep 2014 at 23:24

setter said:
On ivy/haswell water cooling makes virtually zero difference over air cooling, particularly with high stress programs like ibt. 3 haswell i7's I've owned have all been very hot runners. Hence why people delid ivy/haswell and replace the stock paste with liquid metal. 20c temp drops are pretty common after doing this.

I can explain the crappy tim with the 5C+ difference between sandy and ivy, but sandy should not be 70C on water in the first place.

I have ordered a couple of fittings that will allow me to remove and bypass the CPU block without too much hassle and then I will install an aircooler for testing and if I send the block back for RMA.

setter · 5 Sep 2014 at 23:30

70 on sb does seem a bit off mate. I had both 3570k and 3770k on air, same cooler I use now. Both were pretty hot but hw is in a league of its own. Mid 90's at stock on the 2 4790k's I've owned. My k2 cooler is comparable to the D14.

Mark This Day · 5 Sep 2014 at 23:38

Why didn't they use solder on the 4790k ? If they did I would have brought 1

Disco_P · 5 Sep 2014 at 23:42

Mark This Day said:
Why didn't they use solder on the 4790k ? If they did I would have brought 1

They used "Improved TIM" and in doing so proved that the TIM wasn't the problem. It was the shoddy contact it made between the dye and the IHS itself.

setter · 6 Sep 2014 at 00:49

Same problem carried over, albeit my 4770k ran a bit cooler than the two 4790k's. Basically Intel scammed users with the improved Tim line.

Disco_P · 6 Sep 2014 at 01:25

I have contacted the place where I bought the block about an RMA and hopefully they'll accept. I can only hope that the replacement will allow me to actually play games without the thing overheating and cutting out.

Then I'll only have to sort out OS, PSU and CPU. Fairly sure everything is breaking on me at the moment.

Mark This Day · 6 Sep 2014 at 10:15

setter said:
Same problem carried over, albeit my 4770k ran a bit cooler than the two 4790k's. Basically Intel scammed users with the improved Tim line.

They did indeed crazy how they just get away with it agein

almighty15 · 6 Sep 2014 at 12:06

Have you mounted the block in the correct orientation? That makes a massive difference to the temps.

Disco_P · 6 Sep 2014 at 12:21

As far as I can tell there is no incorrect way of fitting the block as either port can be used as an in or out. I read the instructions again found here:
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046990730.pdf

Step 2 and 3 don't make any sense to me. As far as I can tell it wants me to apply thermal paste and then clean it off?

almighty15 · 6 Sep 2014 at 12:27

Disco_P said:
As far as I can tell there is no incorrect way of fitting the block as either port can be used as an in or out. I read the instructions again found here:
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046990730.pdf

Step 2 and 3 don't make any sense to me. As far as I can tell it wants me to apply thermal paste and then clean it off?

There actually is a correct way and wrong way, you have to mount the block so that it flows directly over the CPU die.

Look here..

You can see the die is long in 1 direction only and the water in your block is designed to flow directly over the entire length of the CPU core.

If you have it mounted wrong then the block is only cooling the centre of it.

So make sure you have it flowing in the direction of the CPU core.

Disco_P · 6 Sep 2014 at 15:27

I hadn't thought of that. I will have a look and try rotating it when I get home.

TThank you!

mjones1 · 6 Sep 2014 at 16:51

Are you are using the older LTX? You might need a new backplate that doesn't interfere with the socket backplate.

The old backplate:

Disco_P · 6 Sep 2014 at 19:08

almighty15 said:
There actually is a correct way and wrong way, you have to mount the block so that it flows directly over the CPU die.

You can see the die is long in 1 direction only and the water in your block is designed to flow directly over the entire length of the CPU core.

If you have it mounted wrong then the block is only cooling the centre of it.

So make sure you have it flowing in the direction of the CPU core.

I am fairly sure that it had always been mounted such that the water flows along the entire length of the core. But I tried rotating in 90° anyway and it made it only slightly worse.

mjones1 said:
Are you are using the older LTX? You might need a new backplate that doesn't interfere with the socket backplate.

I only bought the block around a month ago and so am fairly sure it is the newer ltx. I also have the ek 115x true backplate that allows me to apply full mounting pressure.

almighty15 · 6 Sep 2014 at 19:27

There's nothing wrong with the block as I'm using one myself and my temps are loads better then the OP's