The ASRock thread [support/feedback/etc]

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Im not an experienced system builder, so put together my new Ryzen 7 1700 system with a fair bit of trepidation, but hey....it just worked :)

The X370 Gaming Fatality K4 is a lovely bit of kit for the money and does all I want of it

Even the Corsair 3200 memory which a lot of people said wasnt very compatible, has worked first time at 2933 Mhz - will wait for the new bioses before I try higher

My overclock is fine at 3600, but would ask what is the suggested voltage for 3800Mhz as it boots okay at stock volts, but goes black screen on a cinebench run

Very happy user....especially coming from a somewhat ancient (but very reliable Intel Dual Core E8500)
 

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Soldato
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Soldato
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Im not an experienced system builder, so put together my new Ryzen 7 1700 system with a fair bit of trepidation, but hey....it just worked :)

The X370 Gaming Fatality K4 is a lovely bit of kit for the money and does all I want of it

Even the Corsair 3200 memory which a lot of people said wasnt very compatible, has worked first time at 2933 Mhz - will wait for the new bioses before I try higher

My overclock is fine at 3600, but would ask what is the suggested voltage for 3800Mhz as it boots okay at stock volts, but goes black screen on a cinebench run

Very happy user....especially coming from a somewhat ancient (but very reliable Intel Dual Core E8500)

*Fist bump for the Fata1ity K4*

You're alright up to 1.425v, but for a better lifespan try and stay within 1.35v.

I got lucky and got my 1600 to 4Ghz @ 1.3v
 
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@AsrockMB - just a quick one. I don't think it does, but does your RGB LED software control RGB compatible RAM, too? I've just received a pair of Trident Z RGB sticks, and if there's no software controlling it they will just cycle through the standard rainbow.

I have also been checking their support forum, and they say that using their (at the moment frankly buggy) software in conjunction with motherboard RGB software (ASUS AURA, MSI Mystic Sync etc) it can sometimes cause the sticks to become faulty because of the way data of both software suites write to the SMB Bus? Is that the way yours works? Because as far I can tell it only controls the AMD CPU cooler, the heatsink and RGB LED headers.

I can point you to a couple of threads if needs be.

Cheers!
 
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Im not an experienced system builder, so put together my new Ryzen 7 1700 system with a fair bit of trepidation, but hey....it just worked :)

The X370 Gaming Fatality K4 is a lovely bit of kit for the money and does all I want of it

Even the Corsair 3200 memory which a lot of people said wasnt very compatible, has worked first time at 2933 Mhz - will wait for the new bioses before I try higher

My overclock is fine at 3600, but would ask what is the suggested voltage for 3800Mhz as it boots okay at stock volts, but goes black screen on a cinebench run

Very happy user....especially coming from a somewhat ancient (but very reliable Intel Dual Core E8500)

ive got a very stable 3.9 ghz and fixed the volts at 1.306v
(i use pstates and set values as cpu speed = hex code 9c / voltage = hex code 27 i have also set soc volts to 1.00v and both cpu and soc voltage LLC to level 2)
 
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Taichi 2.3 BIOS has an extra section that provides additional memory controls - which may be in preparation for the new AGESA when it drops sometime this month. In particular it includes ProcODT. This is on-die termination voltage for the RAM. AMD notes 50-60 Ohms is OK and you must NOT go beyond 80. Using 60 Ohms and was able to OC my Micron based HyperX Fury 32GB DR RAM from stock 2400/15/15/15/38 to 2666/14/13/13/32. AIDA went from 36xxx to 41xxx MB/s read and ~93-96ns to 79-85ns latency. I couldn't reach this without ProcODT adjustment. Also used SOC 1.0V and DRAM 3.5V, R7/3800GHz/1.38v.

Yes, someone with memory other than Samsung or Hynix! I got this on sale at OCS for £170. Given the cost of 32GB DRAM these days, and with this OC I think that was a good deal, even if I am somewhat jealous of folk with working 3200+ ;)
 
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Just assembled my new bundle (taichi + 1700)

Stuck in a reboot loop, starts, fans spin, all lights on dr debug says 'Ad' - no video signal at any time, reseated the 1080ti, reseated ram sticks, tried different slots, cleared cmos, the usual! Nothing. Disconnected drives, just trying to get into bios never mind OS!

Any ideas?
 
Soldato
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Just assembled my new bundle (taichi + 1700)

Stuck in a reboot loop, starts, fans spin, all lights on dr debug says 'Ad' - no video signal at any time, reseated the 1080ti, reseated ram sticks, tried different slots, cleared cmos, the usual! Nothing. Disconnected drives, just trying to get into bios never mind OS!

Any ideas?

Tried a single stick of ram?
 
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Aye, single stick, different slots. I can force a ram error by removing altogether. Put one back in, and I get the ad code (which I think means all is ok, waiting for os) . My best guess is video signal, maybe the bios doesn't like the 1080ti?? Not sure that would cause a looping reset every 10 seconds or so though, surely it would just sit in bios in reality but because I have no signal I'm unable to see it??
 
Soldato
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Is your cpu cooler plugged into the correct fan header? Only asking as I saw on another forum a few days ago someone was getting boot loops and that may have been the cause. Long shot but worth mentioning.
 
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Is your cpu cooler plugged into the correct fan header? Only asking as I saw on another forum a few days ago someone was getting boot loops and that may have been the cause. Long shot but worth mentioning.
Interesting.. I'm using a h110i so it only has a 3 pin fan header with one pin attached. I'd plugged it into the header 8pack used in the bundle video (though different cooler) - the taichi has multiple cpu fan and water pump headers so not sure which is the 'correct' one, I'll try them all lol
 
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Has any of you ever experienced black screens, like you're in the middle of a game or watching a video and suddenly the screen goes black while you can still hear the sound playing normally in the background?
I'm pretty sure it's not video card related as when I do a reset then my PC doesn't boot and get stuck on the LED boot codes 00 or 0d. I had to do a full clear cmos on several occasions to get out of it.

This started to occur suddenly yesterday evening, not having done anything special or changes any parameters regarding my overclocking (which has been running fine @3.9/1.35v for more than a month). Really worried than either my CPU or my Taichi has taken a hit somehow :(
 
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No difference. Think I'll reseat cpu, without spare parts it's the only thing I have left to try...though didn't seat any evidence of overheating

Forgot to mention, I also did that as part of the troubleshooting of my problem, didn't change anything since it's still occuring (and my temperatures were fine before and still are now).
 
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One odd 1" rubbing alcohol wipe and an old toothbrush later, that at least is removed. Used the last of the grizzy now, problem remains the same. Guess I'll have to wait for tech support Monday - not easy to resolve when working office hours so can't be at pc when the guys throw ideas at you. Saying that, not sure what else there is to try!
 
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Tried pretty much all I can think of, still getting black screens/crashes with the board refusing to boot upon reset afterwards. I either get a LED boot code error 00, 0d or 94 :(
Of course I tried with no overclocking but same thing :(

@AsrockMB: do you think I am in need of an RMA here?
 
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Has any of you ever experienced black screens, like you're in the middle of a game or watching a video and suddenly the screen goes black while you can still hear the sound playing normally in the background?
I'm pretty sure it's not video card related as when I do a reset then my PC doesn't boot and get stuck on the LED boot codes 00 or 0d. I had to do a full clear cmos on several occasions to get out of it.

This started to occur suddenly yesterday evening, not having done anything special or changes any parameters regarding my overclocking (which has been running fine @3.9/1.35v for more than a month). Really worried than either my CPU or my Taichi has taken a hit somehow :(
Sounds like vga or mems.
 
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