*** The Car Cleaning Thread ***

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I set about giving my car a clean today, washed, clayed, washed again then went to polish with my G220 and Ultimate Compound but stopped after doing just the bootlid as it's proving a pain to remove. It doesn't appear to dry like polish and it's still 'wet' when trying to buff it off.

What's going on? :confused:
 
paradigm said:
You're probably applying far too much of it.
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I am only applying as much as megiars demonstrate in their videos, I run the DA back and forth until it goes clear, but it never hazes so it can't be wiped off. If I run my finger over it, it leaves a clean portion but towels just move it around and don't take it off.
 
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I have a quick question about using a microfibre drying towel.

I washed my car at the weekend and I went to dry it with the towel. However after drying the the bonnet the towel was soaked. I wrung it to try and get the water out but it was still quite damp, so when I continued to use it on the car it didn't actually dry it, just removed excess water and left streaks of water on the car. I hope that makes sense.

What is the correct way of using it?
 
I've never done anything more than just straighforward wash my car and having just purchased a new vehicle I'm now interested in looking after its paint finish. I live in a flat and the car is kept outside, exposed to the elements, without any electricity source nearby. My main priorities are an easy, cheap, long lasting paint protection wash by hand.

After getting up to speed on what detailing actually entails by reading the guides on PB and this thread, I have made up my own process along with examples of products. If you know of any cheaper and just as good alternatives please mention this. I welcome any advice :)

1. 2 bucket method hand wash using Lambswool Mitt (Duragloss 901 or Megs NXT or Dodo Juice Born to be Mild)
2. Wash wheel arches and wheels using Microfibre Mitt (Meguiars Endurance or Auto Glym Instant Tyre Dressing with Poorboys Wheel Sealant)
3. Pat dry (I4D Uber Premium Drying Towel)
4. Clay (Meguiars Clay Kit) SUGGEST A LUBRICANT?
5. Glaze (Poor Boys Black Hole) IS THIS OK FOR SOLID BLUE?
6. Seal (Blackfire All Finish Paint Protection or Werkstat Acrylic Kit or Blackfire Wet Diamond Kit)

Would this give a good result considering my criteria?
 
I'd just use Chemical Guys Wet Mirror Finish as this is a glaze and a sealant in one

Since I bought clay and lube seperately I use Autoglym clay lube
 
I don't know if anyone else uses it, but I tried AutoGlym Fast Glass for the first time last night. I'm sure all of these types of products are fine but I have nothing to compare to. It is AWESOME! So quick and the windows were spotless!
 
ScarySquirrel said:
I don't know if anyone else uses it, but I tried AutoGlym Fast Glass for the first time last night. I'm sure all of these types of products are fine but I have nothing to compare to. It is AWESOME! So quick and the windows were spotless!
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I tried it just last week too, picked up two bottles in Sainsburys for £1.74 each. It really is good, works very well on black trim, vinyl etc too :)
 
I gave my car another clean yesterday and used AutoGlym Extra Gloss Protection for the first time. I don't know what constitutes 'good' beading, but I woke up this morning and thought this look quite cool. Up close the car looked awesome because there were beads of water all over it :p

photojk.jpg
 
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