*** The Car Cleaning Thread ***

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Yeah unless you're that VXR guys....only need 2 rinses (one before shampoo, one after). 3 if you snowfoam before that I guess.
 
I shall be snow foaming, GC shampooing, rinsing and then polishing but my inventory only includes Wax it Wet at present so I'd need to get the car damp before applying that after polishing. I'm worried it'll take away any shine.
 
Murzo said:
TBH there is no way Bilberry would have stripped of any paint of your alloys. Its not acidic and is quite a safe wheel cleaner. What did you use to agitate the alloys?
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I did use a soft toothbrush for small areas, is this where I went wrong? Should it of still stripped paint?

I have now invested in a Meg's Wheel Brush so might go and use that in a minute.

Looking at getting the wheel(s) refurbished. Wondering if it's worth doing it myself (I heard it's pretty time/labour intense for a nice finish? but all 4 wheels would cost around £100 in materials). Or opt for a pro job, Lepsons are in Swindon and I am up and down the M4 all of the time, about £250 for the 4 but quite inconvenient, not sure how i'd manage it.
 
Guys, I am a manager in a big London detailing firm.

If you have any q's about products or methods, feel free to ask and I'll do my best to give you good advice.

Rob
 
I've got some really embedded grime on the front of my rear wheel arches that won't seem to budge, I've just tried Chemical Guys Strong wash which was awesome at getting off flys but didn't touch this grime.

It seems to be really embedded, you can barely feel it running your finger over it. Is there something stronger I can use or would it need a professional detail?

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Eriedor said:
I've got some really embedded grime on the front of my rear wheel arches that won't seem to budge, I've just tried Chemical Guys Strong wash which was awesome at getting off flys but didn't touch this grime.

It seems to be really embedded, you can barely feel it running your finger over it. Is there something stronger I can use or would it need a professional detail?
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Tardis. Failing that get a claybar on it – should shift it.
 
I assume this has been asked and answered somewhere in this thread but it's too long for me to trail through so accept my apologies for the repetition.

What is the best machine to use for polishing/glossing/waxing? My wrist is virtually dead after I've done all that on all 5 cars here, plus it takes at least two days (I'm slow).

Also, can they be used with hard wax, or just liquid wax?

By "best" I mean within a reasonable budget, say nothing over £100 (unless that is still not reasonable for a good qual one which won't **** up the car).
 
I wouldn't use a machine to apply the wax, although I believe it is possible with a Dual Action.

Does the £100 budget include the pads, backing plates and polish that you will need?

In which case I would go for this (£118) Silverline Rotary Kit from i4D. If you can stretch another £50, this is the kit I bought Silverline Rotary Kit with more pads and polish.

If the thought of a rotary scares you (it really shouldn't) then you could look at this (£111) Kestral DAS-6 Kit.

The good thing about the £145 Silverline Kit is that you get two sizes of pads in three grades of cut, two backing plates and a decent range of polishes.

All of the other kits only come with the 135mm pads which I think is too big for tight areas.
 
If you are going rotary, save a little more and opt for something like the CYC800 - it's lighter and has a slower minimum speed making refining easier.
 
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