*** The Car Cleaning Thread ***

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Thanks slick rick, I'll pop to Aldi later and have a gander.

No problem mate, I just dug the box out to show you what to look for.
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And this is one of the cloths that has been used a lot and been washed a lot.
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Hope that helps. :)
 
Need suggestions for cleaning the windows. Been using fast glass as its not badly priced but any other suggestions for non tinted windows? Also my meguires 8 year old waffle towell needs replaced are they still the goto brand?

I use Auto Finesse Crystal Glass with a normal MF towel. It is the only combo I have found to give easy smear free glass but other people swear by other combo's. I would say if you found one that works for you then stick with it :)

Any of you bought any bulk MF cloths from the Rainforest?

Never bought bulk from Amazon, got some bulk ones from Costco which are good quality.

Brake dust, talk to me.

Best way to make my life easier when cleaning it? My 330d touring after 1,500 miles has created so much brake dust it's insane.

I'm going to clean the car again this weekend, figured I'd remove all the wheels and treat them.

Any ideas on what to use to clean and then treat?

If brake dust is that bad then I would consider some of the long last coating. I haven't used any to recomend though gtechniq always seems to get good reviews. As for cleaning, if you are going to be applying a coating then you need to enjsure they are perfectly clean so I would recomend a reasonably strong wheel cleaner, tar and fall out remover and you can even clay them if you wish and then apply the coating.

Once coated it should take very little to keep them clean, I have only wheel wax but even that just requires soapy water to clean rather than a specific wheel cleaner.

Edit: Beaten like a ginger step child but advice is all similar :)
 
Thanks slick rick, I'll pop to Aldi later and have a gander.

agnes, you'd need something like Dragons Breath / TRIX to remove any iron/tar/brake dust deposits from the alloys.

The method I used to do my rears (fronts are yet to be done) was:

Wash.
TRIX
Rinse
Wash
Clay bar
Wash
Dry
Polish
Wax

They're now gleaming and are pi$$ to clean.

i used to have the exact same routine. now i blast them with the pressure washer. gtechniq c5 is well worth the money.
 
Iron-x.

Then a coating of something like CarPro Dlux or gtechniq C5.

Should then just need car shampoo and a brush.

Coatings don't make much of a difference in terms of stopping brake dust on the alloy. BMW pads are very dusty, untouched the layer will just go blacker and blacker. unless tar is also involved then just wiping with a rag is enough to reveal the shiny alloy surface in my experience, but baked in dust requires something stronger like iron-x/billberry etc.

I suppose it also depends on the type of finish on your alloys though, mine are polished all round, so a gentle wipe is all that's needed, whereas the painted wheels on the old car required more elbow grease as the surface pores got dust baked in if left untouched for a few weeks.
 
I'm yet to try any Auto Finesse products, are they good?

Going to buy a few bottles of Meguiars Ultimate wash and wax car shampoo later, from reviews I've read/watched it seems to be better than gold class.

Need suggestions for cleaning the windows. Been using fast glass as its not badly priced but any other suggestions for non tinted windows? Also my meguires 8 year old waffle towell needs replaced are they still the goto brand?

I use meguiars perfect clarity glass cleaner (think that is what its called). I find it much better than fast glass and leaves a nice finish with no smears.
 
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Looking for some advice in regards to machine polishing. I've had my Type-R FN2 (Milano Red) for 4 year or so. I usually very rarely wash it, but give it a going over with Sonax Xtreme Detailer every week or so.

What I'd like to do is pick up a machine polisher, the pads and all the other bits and have a go at getting all the swirl/scratch marks out of the paint and get it nice and shiny. I've watched this video from Chemical Guys who go over the steps - is a 3-step method the way to go? Looks like I'll need a compound, polish and a finishing polish?

What would be splendid is if someone could point me in the direction of a decent machine polisher, what pads I'll need, the compound/polishes to go along with it and anything else.

Looking on CleanYourCar, they've got a variety of machine polishers - are they much the same? I've read about their DAS-6 which would be my choice.

I thew out my snow foam stuff when I moved house, and need restocking on some other bits, so I've already got these sitting in my basket:

Lance: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=1296
Snow Foam: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=1239
Tyre Gel: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=103
Applicator: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=765
Wash Mitt: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=985
 
CYC do a package consisting of the DAS 6 Pro with Chemical Guys pads and Meguiars Ultra Cut Compound and Ultra Finishing Polish. It's all very good stuff and likely all you'll need.

I might also suggest getting a 4" backing plate and some smaller pads too as they're a fair bit easier to work with in smaller areas with than the 5.5" pads.
 
CYC do a package consisting of the DAS 6 Pro with Chemical Guys pads and Meguiars Ultra Cut Compound and Ultra Finishing Polish. It's all very good stuff and likely all you'll need.

I might also suggest getting a 4" backing plate and some smaller pads too as they're a fair bit easier to work with in smaller areas with than the 5.5" pads.

Thanks for that - added it all into the basket.

Once I've applied the finishing polish, would I be right in thinking I should apply a sealant or wax? If so, are there any particularly good ones?
 
You will likely only need the finishing compound on a type R (205?) - the paint is like butter. The 105 won't damage it though, not with a da

Don't hit it with any kind of hard cutting pad either - I only ever tend to use a white hex logic finishing pad on it, you could go one harsher but certainly don't want the more aggressive pads
 
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Is Honda paint that soft that 205 will correct fairly major defects?!


Yes you will need to wax it after polishing. Collinite 476 is a good choice.
 
I have 105 and 205 and didn't need to use the 105 anywhere - the car is dark so had a good bit of swirling and some noticeable scratching (obviously not through to paint)

As a comparison the 205 wouldn't touch the pug 107's swirling and neither could make any real difference on my old BMW with its rock hard paint

Colinite is good, I also like nattys blue - smells nice and goes a long way
 
jap paint is soft german pant is the hardest. took a long time to get the defects out of my black e90.

going to tackle my dads 07 honda crv in black. not looked at it under the light yet so not sure to use m205 or try poor boys black hole and just fill it in.
 
I hate the thought of just filling in defects, personally. It's only going to wear away over time and they'll reappear, whereas properly correcting them and looking after the paintwork thereafter will last as long as you desire.
 
Thanks for all the input & the offer tip ops! I'll try the Meguiars #205 on a white pad and see how the results - also added Collinite 476 into the basket. I'll try and get some before/after pictures up once it's done!
 
Need suggestions for cleaning the windows. Been using fast glass as its not badly priced but any other suggestions for non tinted windows? Also my meguires 8 year old waffle towell needs replaced are they still the goto brand?

RainX 2in1 glass cleaner. Absolutely brilliant stuff. Apply a very light spray, wipe with microfibre cloth, grime removed, no smears, added rain repellant that is not a pain like the original RainX solution. Considerably better than autoglym fast glass and glass polish in my experience.

Think I am going to apply some HD Wax to my newly polished headlights. Hopefully that will protect them.
 
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