The EMTB (Electric Mountain Bike) Discussion Thread...

The general rule with cassettes is that the more teeth you are using the better as the load is spread. The high torque and power that ebikes deploy just makes this even worse. I think looking at Shimano cues for ebikes might be the sensible call. I don't know what the concensus is on 11 vs 12 speed when it comes to durability but with chains getting thinner with every gear they add you are inevitably losing durability each time.

It would be interesting to know how differently people on ebikes ride vs normal riders. I can put out a fair bit of power on my road bike but thats almost always moving through the gears so that I am kind to my legs on the way there. On an ebike thats not really a concern. You don't need to "soft start" so you can just send 400w through a small cog from cold.
 
Jonny ///M said:
How are you guys finding chain wear on the electric bikes?
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Depends on what chain your using.

on my Sram bike with a GX chain I got about 400miles before the stretch was too much.
I switched to the more expensive x01/xx1 whatever it is and they last till about 1000miles
Sram comes with a tool to line the cage up with the biggest cog to make shifting perfect.
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I reindexed mine fine by sight and sound, the tool probably just makes is simpler to see where the sweet spot is.

fez said:
I don't know what the concensus is on 11 vs 12 speed when it comes to durability
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for 11 speed you change chain at 0.75? for 12 speed its 0.5

so I guess your already doing less milage from the get go.

The thing is who needs 12 speed? especially on an EMTB...

I need to change my cassette etc the next time I change my chain anyway, I don't even bother changing gear anymore.... seems like the only point of changing gear is to make the drive train last longer when you have fat torque

an ebike really only need likes 6speed in reality.

one gear for uphill, and another that maxes out at about 16mph which is about where the motors cut out anyway
 
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arknor said:
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The thing is who needs 12 speed? especially on an EMTB...

I need to change my cassette etc the next time I change my chain anyway, I don't even bother changing gear anymore.... seems like the only point of changing gear is to make the drive train last longer when you have fat torque

an ebike really only need likes 6speed in reality.

one gear for uphill, and another that maxes out at about 16mph which is about where the motors cut out anyway
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i have used all mine, i've gotta say, so not sure i agree
 
My 12 year old Transition Bandit was starting to show its age 26" wheels and hope brakes that had been on a couple of bikes before it.

Tried a mates ebike and was surprised and impressed.

I can now cycle all the way to my local trails. Do a circuit or 2 and then cycle home. No need for the car.

I went for one in a local shop that was last years model and a half decent spec but a big discount. Main negatives from my research is Haibike/Raleigh and warranty so we shall see.

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CraigN said:
My 12 year old Transition Bandit was starting to show its age 26" wheels and hope brakes that had been on a couple of bikes before it.

Tried a mates ebike and was surprised and impressed.

I can now cycle all the way to my local trails. Do a circuit or 2 and then cycle home. No need for the car.

I went for one in a local shop that was last years model and a half decent spec but a big discount. Main negatives from my research is Haibike/Raleigh and warranty so we shall see.
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Looks awesome!

Being able to cycle to my little local trail gas been a game changer for me. 15 minute pedal, where as before I wouldn't even have went as I would've used the car. It's great for a post work blast. Now riding my bike on some proper good trails 2-3x a week rather than just at weekends :D

Ebikes are the future of mountain biking.
 
I saw this on the bosch owners page on facebook


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how much abuse do you think thats had lol (the actual motor shell is cracked, he wasn't talking about the bash guard)

I've never saw mention of that ever happening to any motor brand, I bet you could sledge hammer the motor shell multiple times and never crack across the fins
 
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400 odd miles since i got the bike and changed the forks today. It came with Ebike version Fox 36 Performance. They felt so hard no matter what i tried. I even bought a second hand shockwiz to try and help thinking it was the setup.

Fitted some Factor 38's and the difference is immense. Did my local 8 mile trail and with the recommended settings they are so much better. I wonder what they do to the ebike versions? I read they were 34 internals in a 36 chassis but no idea if that's true.

I just so happen to have a factory float X2 from my Transition. So that's gone off to be serviced and will fit it when it returns.

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CraigN said:
400 odd miles since i got the bike and changed the forks today. It came with Ebike version Fox 36 Performance. They felt so hard no matter what i tried. I even bought a second hand shockwiz to try and help thinking it was the setup.

Fitted some Factor 38's and the difference is immense. Did my local 8 mile trail and with the recommended settings they are so much better. I wonder what they do to the ebike versions? I read they were 34 internals in a 36 chassis but no idea if that's true.

I just so happen to have a factory float X2 from my Transition. So that's gone off to be serviced and will fit it when it returns.

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Biggest issue with most fox forks feeling crap is excess grease. My fox 38 felt harsh as hell and when I stripped them down they were chock full of grease.

In the end I put a Smashpot coil conversion in my 38s and never looked back.
 
The 38s have been much better than the 36's. I got the Float X2 back from its service and have fitted that.

I'm a bit annoyed I didn't just buy a higher end bike now. Was trying to be cost efficient.

Magura MT7 levers are awful. one has cracked and ive not even had an off or hit it. Bought some XT levers to give a shiguira setup a go.

The stock WTB "tubeless" read rims are built poorly. The front rim wont seal at all even fitting my own tape it leaks around 2 eyelets and the weld and the rear holds but leaks slowly.

Im taking the ebike to Bike Park Wales in a few weeks. Will see how it does there.

Was hoping to have one ebike that can do everything but might need to have another bike that i use for Bike parks and the fun downhill stuff and keep this one for XC/Trails.

Its just so heavy and transporting it is a pain.

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CraigN said:
Im taking the ebike to Bike Park Wales in a few weeks. Will see how it does there.

Was hoping to have one ebike that can do everything but might need to have another bike that i use for Bike parks and the fun downhill stuff and keep this one for XC/Trails.

Its just so heavy and transporting it is a pain.
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That's what I ended up doing, analog downhill bike for the uplifts and e-bike for everything else.
 
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300exc said:
Never pal, im more into 2 strokes haha But hoping this will encourage me to get out more and do a bit !
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Oh you're in for a treat!

Couple of points though as bike shops don't seem to tell you this.
The drivetrain on the e-bike is the same as a normal bike. With the extra power the motor gives it's very easy to trash your chain & cassette in a short amount of miles without realising.
Don't change gear when under load, especially when climbing without backing off pedalling first. It'll wear teeth and cassette in no time.

It's very easy to be in the wrong gear for a climb when using the higher power modes. If you have to put much effort in when in turbo/emtb mode chances are you're in too small a gear and the force is spread over a much less number of teeth leading to greater wear.
If you're ever not sure drop the assist down to eco... If you're suddenly unable to pedal then you're in the wrong cog!
 
Teknobry said:
Oh you're in for a treat!

Couple of points though as bike shops don't seem to tell you this.
The drivetrain on the e-bike is the same as a normal bike. With the extra power the motor gives it's very easy to trash your chain & cassette in a short amount of miles without realising.
Don't change gear when under load, especially when climbing without backing off pedalling first. It'll wear teeth and cassette in no time.

It's very easy to be in the wrong gear for a climb when using the higher power modes. If you have to put much effort in when in turbo/emtb mode chances are you're in too small a gear and the force is spread over a much less number of teeth leading to greater wear.
If you're ever not sure drop the assist down to eco... If you're suddenly unable to pedal then you're in the wrong cog!
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Really good info that pal, much appreciated. I am actaully looking forward to getting out on it, just bought the little fella a 24" Specilized Turbo Levo SL aswell to try and encourage him to do a bit also!
 
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