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The Fury(X) Fiji Owners Thread

Throughout all of the Fury X issues, i finally said screw it and got the EKWB water block. I had this idea before the issues showed up, and while AMD's lack of help is still a seirous concern for the future.

Here is my new rig.

http://imgur.com/a/4mOi9

looking good. I am contemplating on getting these blocks myself for my furys :) just bit puzzled by all those mm numbers with different tubes :D been awhile.
 
If it had turned up earlier, then i could have thought about just giving it a test, and then just sourcing a screw if it was ok.

I just got in a flap tbh, as you do, and wasn't thinking straight after seeing a missing screw on the thing :p

remove screws and check the pump sticker at least...is it new rev or old?
 
I hope for you it's not one of the four I've returned, each of them ordered from four different retailers so...

Which brand is it? The four I returned were: Powercolor, Sapphire, Asus and MSI.

It's a Sapphire one.

CS said that they check some of them and the warranty is still fine but I can return it if I want. Looking in the box there's a couple of bits of paper with Chinese writing on with 23/07/15 so it would be pretty good going if it has already been rma'd.

I decided to give it a go and it's silent. I stuck my head in the case to have a good listen but nothing. Coming from a 270x hopefully i'll notice a difference!
 
Yeah i just read those, doesnt bode well, normally i ignore everything you say as you are a blatant nvidia troll, but on this occasion i have to give you kudos for posting that info.

Well thats me definitely not buying an AMD card this round, roll on die shrink.

Dreamy ;)

But seriously, you're probably wise to wait for the shrink. For me the Fury was built for tomorrow (DX12, compute heavy) and the Ti for today (DX11+, triangle heavy).

Looking forward to both Arctic Islands and Pascal, hopefully AMD will hit it out of the park (they have some damn talented guys there!!) :cool:
 
This is what worries me....
Once we reach +144 mV, which results in a scorching 1.35 V on the GPU, the maximum stable frequency reaches its peak. At this point, the VRMs are running temperatures above 95°C even though they are cooled by the watercooling loop via a nearby copper pipe. That much heat on the VRMs is definitely not good for long-term use.

So basically You still need a proper water block... Would rather buy FuryX card with no cooling on it and put good block on it now... Or just get Fury card and slam block on.....

I was thinking that copper pipe wont cut it :(
 
This is what worries me....
Once we reach +144 mV, which results in a scorching 1.35 V on the GPU, the maximum stable frequency reaches its peak. At this point, the VRMs are running temperatures above 95°C even though they are cooled by the watercooling loop via a nearby copper pipe. That much heat on the VRMs is definitely not good for long-term use.

So basically You still need a proper water block... Would rather buy FuryX card with no cooling on it and put good block on it now... Or just get Fury card and slam block on.....

I was thinking that copper pipe wont cut it :(

of course it won't cut it, if you are running your fans at minimal speeds, like mr wizard did
 
This is what worries me....
Once we reach +144 mV, which results in a scorching 1.35 V on the GPU, the maximum stable frequency reaches its peak. At this point, the VRMs are running temperatures above 95°C even though they are cooled by the watercooling loop via a nearby copper pipe. That much heat on the VRMs is definitely not good for long-term use.

So basically You still need a proper water block... Would rather buy FuryX card with no cooling on it and put good block on it now... Or just get Fury card and slam block on.....

I was thinking that copper pipe wont cut it :(

Matt seems to think that the rpm of the rad fan helps in the vrm temps, this maybe influential at high voltage, I feel that the flow rate of the pump is actually more influential.

My opinion is that despite there being a heatpipe there isn't any air cooling within the graphics card housing. So there's still a lot of heatsoak and convection occuring within the air space of the card housing. If I bought a furyx the first thing I'd do is take the cover off and fit a cooling fan into that cover and put the cover back on.
(basically a nano cover)

You should see the temps of the vrms on 3584 :(
 
Not sure what the setup is on the Fury but with VRMs in general they are usually specced for 125C max, 150C absolute max (at which point TSD should be invoked) over most of the range - usually at 125C they are rated in the lower end of 1000s of hours - rising to 50,000+ hours at 95-105C unless they've really cheaped out.
 
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