The Indoor Riding/ Zwift/ TrainerRoad etc. Thread

Berger said:
I ca never get my index perfect on the Neo when swapping from the road wheel which is spot on. Guess it's due to the spacer and hub etc but it's a pain.
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I have Di2 and it works perfect on the bike. On the Neo the top and bottom cogs are fine but as I move into the middle of the cassette it starts clicking and then misses one gear on the way down and back up. I've tried the various spacer options but with no improvement.

I have a 2x new cassettes and chain coming this week so i'm hoping that fixes it.
 
SDK^ said:
I have Di2 and it works perfect on the bike. On the Neo the top and bottom cogs are fine but as I move into the middle of the cassette it starts clicking and then misses one gear on the way down and back up. I've tried the various spacer options but with no improvement.

I have a 2x new cassettes and chain coming this week so i'm hoping that fixes it.
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I had to fine tune the indexing when on the Neo, I find the easiest way to adjust DI2 indexing is via a Garmin as you can see the fine tuning on screen when cycling. It also allows you to record the changes so you can quickly change back when you go to the road wheel.

Also make sure you have the right hub spacer, road bikes with disc brakes need the additional one on the non drive side.
 
Roady said:
If you want to get involved with Zwift/TR then a Smart & FE-C compatible trainer is almost compulsory these days. You can ride without but you miss 50% of the training & enjoyment!

I guess what I'm saying is, with a sale on the Flow & BC discount you should be able to find one new for £170-180ish, if that's still over your budget then looking second hand should pick you up a Vortex or similar within your budget.

If you want to buy a new dumb trainer (warranties etc) then the bluematic is a pretty safe bet, as is the Kurt Kinetic RM or RnR (as I mentioned previously - they're probably the best regarded with solid frames and large flywheels).

I'd probably recommend the second hand route for either, as there's lots of people upgrading this time of year for new models! :D
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Thanks for the advice. Seems you can get a satori smart for 150 second hand, anywhere to look for second hand kit other than eBay?

Edit - although I'm reading my garmin gsc10 sensor will work instead?
 
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Berger said:
I ca never get my index perfect on the Neo when swapping from the road wheel which is spot on. Guess it's due to the spacer and hub etc but it's a pain.
Click to expand...

Always found it to be slightly off on my KickR as well. If riding intervals in ERG mode I usually find a reasonably straight chain-line and just leave it be, I.E. the quietest :p I'll faff if I'm planning on riding 'terrain'.

The other appeal of the Atom is for those who don't want an actual road bike in their living space (a bit less Die-Hard) and I suspect the footprint is smaller too. Whether the premium is warranted....
 
neil_g said:
Thanks for the advice. Seems you can get a satori smart for 150 second hand, anywhere to look for second hand kit other than eBay?

Edit - although I'm reading my garmin gsc10 sensor will work instead?
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Ebay & local facebook buy/sell groups. If you're checking Ebay look for a seller called 'tri-sports_resort'; it's Wiggle selling much of their returns items/equipment/clothing they can't otherwise return to manufacturers/sell as new. They seem to quite frequently have Neo's and Vortex's on there.

The GSC10 is just a speed & cadence sensor, you need one of those to operate a 'dumb' trainer with any kind of software anyway. Without it the software can't determine how fast the wheel is spinning (which is what it determines your 'estimated' power from).
 
I have identical SRAM 11-28 cassettes on the Neo and road wheel.

My thought is that the spacer isn’t the right size so the RD doesn’t sit correctly in line with the cassette.

I would rather shim it so that it’s perfect than try and adjust the barrel adjuster (which doesn’t get it perfect) or mess with the limit screws all the time.

Just need some small shims!
 
BennyC said:
Always found it to be slightly off on my KickR as well. If riding intervals in ERG mode I usually find a reasonably straight chain-line and just leave it be, I.E. the quietest :p I'll faff if I'm planning on riding 'terrain'.

The other appeal of the Atom is for those who don't want an actual road bike in their living space (a bit less Die-Hard) and I suspect the footprint is smaller too. Whether the premium is warranted....
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Same with mine on the Kickr. Another thing appealing about the Atom and such like is when doing full bore sprints. When you see how much the bike flexes, its a bit worrying.
 
Not having used static bikes too much, I would have thought that a rigid 'platform' would have some benefits, as it's just about your true power going through the pedals, and not being distorted by the bike swaying from side to side.

The big benefit of the atom is that I would likely have it setup in a spare room, when we eventually move house. So I can just keep it to one side, then move it in front my my iMac for some Zwift action, then move it back when finished. Much less faff than having a complete bike in the room, and the Atom must take up less space too.

And I might be able to get the other half to use it too, that's my ace card if I she asks how much it is! ;)
 
I think you probably need to go a gym and do a session on a Wattbike to really determine if riding a static bike is for you!
 
Grand pain cave plans are great! :D

Our previous place I had to turbo outside as not enough room in the house and the garage wasn't linked (had no power or lighting). I've got an attached garage now which I've dedicated half to 'bike & workshop space' so I can leave things setup. It's not smart or tidy, but lights, power and a bit of space! ;)
 
Berger said:
I have identical SRAM 11-28 cassettes on the Neo and road wheel.

My thought is that the spacer isn’t the right size so the RD doesn’t sit correctly in line with the cassette.

I would rather shim it so that it’s perfect than try and adjust the barrel adjuster (which doesn’t get it perfect) or mess with the limit screws all the time.

Just need some small shims!
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Tried the 0.5mm shim, too much.

Removed the hub, grease was alright, heard they can be a bit dry.

Put it back on, the 5mm Allen wasn’t tight at all that holds the hub on.

Put the cassette back on and torqued it all up, bit better than before gear tune wise but still needs a little adjustment, if it’s just the barrel then I can hack it but don’t want to have to mess with the limit screws.
 
Berger said:
Could put the P3 on there as it is just sat there at the minute but prefer riding the R5, especially for more than an hour!
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But it's stationary on the turbo :o

Had someone ask me how I liked a Pinarello when taking part in a short sprint challenge at the LBS @ The Excel back in Feb. Just gave them a Bert Stare as it was less than 2 minutes most of which I was stood for :p
 
BennyC said:
But it's stationary on the turbo :o

Had someone ask me how I liked a Pinarello when taking part in a short sprint challenge at the LBS @ The Excel back in Feb. Just gave them a Bert Stare as it was less than 2 minutes most of which I was stood for :p
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Yes but the bike still moves side to side on a Neo and the TT riding position is massively different.

Also body position on a turbo is a little different to the road I feel, less weight on/over the front wheel.
 
BennyC said:
Had someone ask me how I liked a Pinarello when taking part in a short sprint challenge at the LBS @ The Excel back in Feb. Just gave them a Bert Stare as it was less than 2 minutes most of which I was stood for :p
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Benny. Mastering the Bert Stare since '99! Sure they weren't giving them away to anyone interested!? ;)

My usual response to nonsensical quasi comments/questions like this is along the lines of 'They're like a Rolls/Aston Martin, nice to look at but **** to drive'. I do have a friend with one (K8 I think), but I've not had the opportunity to jump on it... Yet! Although to be fair I'm not that fussed, they can't feel any different to any other top end bike. To be fair the DB9 I drove wasn't bad, just felt slow/sluggish/unresponsive compared to others. Nice to sit in though, like a 5* hotel! :D

Berger said:
Also body position on a turbo is a little different to the road I feel, less weight on/over the front wheel.
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Agreed. More weight concentrated on the saddle.

In a related note, anyone with any turbo trainer saddle recommendations?

I've basically gone from the kinda slim flat/firm Fizik Arione R5 to a Specialized Phenom which has a flatter nose, relief cutout and channel. I find it perfect on the road, but on the turbo after 30/40 mins I'm uncomfortable. With the tri bars also fitted riding in them for more than 5/10 minutes is very uncomfortable on the nose of either saddle. The Arione is still the worst of both!

I'm probably after a Tri saddle with a relief channel and cut out? Or something like the ISM PN maybe? Does anyone have one and what do they ride on the road? Think I recall @BennyC having a Fizik Tritone, what do you ride on the rode mate?
 
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Ok thanks. Your road choice isn't vastly different to mine so I may have to do the same, just £££! :o

Did you try/consider any cheaper alternatives? How do you find the Sitero when riding in 'normal' position? Enough relief?
 
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