LEt me take a look to see if It'd be worth me trying, not too sure what the inride is. I've got your mail somewhere so will dig it out and let you know tomorrow if thats ok?
Of course. The 2 pods I have, have sat unused since I sold my KK ~3 years ago! Going to have a rummage and just check where I put them as so much stuff got moved around due to mini^me.
The InRide basically measures the roller speed and calculates 'power' from that before transmitting. Fundamentally the exact same thing Trainerroad/Zwift are calculating with S&C sensors. Realistically it should be more accurate (made for specific trainers and their known roller sizes) rather than the generalisation from the other measurements (wheel size & crank length etc).
Using a dumb trainer with speed sensor combo. I rode as hard as I could for an hour and this should the average power across the ride as 123 watts or 1.2w/kg. On the sprint bit in London I got out of the saddle and put as much power as I could but, this only got me to 305 watts for a couple of seconds.
I know I shouldn't read too much into the zpower figures but, surely my readings are woefully inaccurate?
Sounds inaccurate, confirm if there is a calibration/app for your trainer. The Kurt Kinetic Road Machine II I previously owned I was tightening the roller '4 turns' onto the 100psi wheel as per most recommendations. I still had slip but when I tightened it enough (6 or 7 turns) to eliminate as much slip as possible I had similar low power readings to yours. I basically went back to the '4 turns' and put up with slippage and put it down to my tyre and my torque. The KK had no calibration app so I had no idea how calibrated it was, even using it on Zwift (which calculates from a 'known' power curve for that trainer) is still reliant on it being calibrated and fitted exactly.
Switching to the Vortex, which again being an on wheel, but with a calibration app, I discovered even with my '4 turn' equivilent on-wheel fitting I had been drastically over tightening the KK. I had to go back to approximately 1.8 turns for it to measure in the middle of the Tacx calibration app. It had tons more tyre slip than I thought would be required but I continued with it. A drop in psi to 80psi or so would screw the calibration and cause loads more slippage so I would regularly pump up the tyre (weekly?) to the same psi (100) before riding. Even then it wasn't that accurate (around 15-20% over reading), but arguably more accurate than a trainer without a calibration app. Higher wattages it was more inaccurate.
Switching to a direct drive (Flux) I have a feeling is now under reading by around 10%, but consistently under, rather than variably over. Although does mean I've taken a 20-30% reduction in my FTP power, yet possibly closer to 30-40% variation in my peak sprint power (can now hit higher!), not a drop as kinda expected... Which I'm putting down to eliminating wheel slip.
Sounds it unless you are a child.
More than likely you've not got the right trainer/power curve selected.
Brutally harsh Benno lol
To me it sounds more like calibration.
My trainer is dead, the electro brake is non responsive.
Warranty time, hopefully CRC don't mess me about.
Argh! Good luck, should still be covered where you bought it from rather than having to return to Tacx?
Wahoo Tickr is good. It just works.
Accidentally put mine through the washing machine with the rest of the gear & it still works great.
Mines been through the washing machine (mistakenly!) a handful of times. Once it was 'dead', but came back to life after being dried out and a new battery fitted.
EDIT: Will be Zwifting later, jumping on pretty much as soon as I'm home from work so I can finish before little ones bedtime at 6:45ish. Annoyingly not many races start from 5:40-5.50 and most of them take an hour so I can't start as late as 6ish to be complete & cooled down before 6.45, damn!
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