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*** The Official Alder Lake owners thread ***

@Kelt - have you checked your vcore voltage when it is running cinebench R23...? Not what you have dialled in, but actually running at when at full load overclock. The reason I ask is that when I had the MSI 690 Pro I needed to use adaptive voltage with a negative offset, or it would scale up quite high with just a manual vcore setting. I noted your Cinebench R23 screenshot in that other thread, and you are not far off thermal throttling, at 95c.

Just noting what you have written about entering 1.26v for your vcore.
 
Vimes said:
@Kelt - have you checked your vcore voltage when it is running cinebench R23...? Not what you have dialled in, but actually running at when at full load overclock. The reason I ask is that when I had the MSI 690 Pro I needed to use adaptive voltage with a negative offset, or it would scale up quite high with just a manual vcore setting. I noted your Cinebench R23 screenshot in that other thread, and you are not far off thermal throttling, at 95c.

Just noting what you have written about entering 1.26v for your vcore.
Click to expand...

Most it pulled (according to HWINFO) was 1.262V during an R23 run, CPU-Z reporting 1.258.

I did use the preinstalled paste that came with AIO instead of the Kryponaut stuff I bought, will repaste some time in the future maybe, see if it helps by a few degrees.

Though in normal circumstance, gaming etc, it runs so cool and quiet.

Haven't done anything with LLC yet, need to read up a bit first on this mobo!
 
I know at 1.284v for vcore, when it is running R23, these are my temps....



yours just seemed high when running at the same OC with less vcore. I know that I have a 420mm AF II cooler but you seem to have either a 360 or a 420 AIO.
 
Vimes said:
I know at 1.284v for vcore, when it is running R23, these are my temps....



yours just seemed high when running at the same OC with less vcore. I know that I have a 420mm AF II cooler but you seem to have either a 360 or a 420 AIO.
Click to expand...

I have a 360, maybe that's just the difference having an extra 120 makes?

Or maybe I haven't got the best contact yet with the AIO, like I said above, it's something I plan to do later on.
 
When I put this build together I could not find my decent paste (MX5) and so used some generic one until my replacement MX5 paste arrived. I was surprised at the 8c or so difference it seemed to make between that no name generic paste and that of the MX 5. You could have a point about your paste, missed that when you first mentioned it. I did not expect that.
Maybe the 420mm makes a one or two degree difference.
Naturally I find my original MX 5 paste after I opened and used my new one, typical.!
 
Cryfreeman said:
Ha that’s about the same as me, not touched overclocking or owned a pc in years :D So many options now in the bios :mad: My motherboard had a option to decrease the variable voltage by a set amount as the voltage changes as the cpu gets loaded. Set mine to -0.125 I think so now my temps are in check and sitting nice at 5000 all p cores
Click to expand...

Funny how boards from 2010/12 look like toys compared to todays UEFI bios tree options.
 
ADL OC tips for DDR4 users:

Firstly, tune for what you'll be doing. If you're gaming primarily, disable HyperThreading. If you're doing rendering, leave everything on and tune to that. The ecores are fine to have on in most games and if you're doing background things like Discord, teamspeak, streaming etc, you'll want the ecores do their work.

Memory tips:

Gear 1 is all you care about so make sure your bios is set to Gear 1. Gear 2 and DDR4 is a performance disaster as the memory controller runs at half speed. Any XMP close to or above 4000mhz has a low chance of working out of the box. For starters, let the Bios set your XMP and then manually adjust the frequency to 3600mhz for starters.

All the boards are "daisy chain" memory topology which sadly means you'll have more success with 2 DIMM's than 4. MSI and Asus are the best at memory.

A lot of the boards are being tuned for Samsung BDIE IC's. An easy to obtain daily stable for Bdie DDR4 + MSI/Asus boards is 16-16-16/4000.

VCCIO is no longer a voltage you need to care about as before (yay!) It doesn't exist anymore. Your two main voltages are: SA = System Agent and DRAM = memory voltage.

Start off with 1.3v SA and 1.5v with DRAM voltage. Then set your primary timings to 16-16-16 and start at 3600mhz. Then go up by 200mhz each time until it stops booting. Then go back down by 100mhz and start testing there. Once stable, you can start tuning the voltages down 10mv at a time until you find the stability floor for both SA and DRAM. Or you can leave it. 1.3v SA and 1.5v bdie dram voltage are safe for 24/7.

CPU tips:

Just about any chip will do 5.0ghz all core (as long as you can cool it) along with 40x ecores and around 42 cache. Go into bios. Find the LLC option and find the middle of the range LLC for yoru board. On my Asus Prime P LLC 4 even states (ideal for OC). Now go find vcore voltage. You'll want to change this from auto to fixed/static. Then set it to 1.25v. Adjust your all core P cores to 50x, Ecores to 40x and Cache min and max to 42x. Disable Ring down bin.

Save and exit and make sure that's stable.

Once stable, you can keep going up with multipliers of the pcores/ecores/cache one at at time and adjust the voltage until you're not no stable, running too hot or not comfortable with that level of a voltage. Heat on the higher core count chips and voltage on the lower core count chips will be your limiting factors most likey.

OC goes a long way with ADL:

ADL out of the box is fast but ADL tuned from a CPU and Mem perspective is *REALLY* fast. It takes time but there's a lot of performance to be gained so be patient, test throughly for stability and learn along the way.

Look at the top and bottom for an example of stock baseline vs tuned for gaming:

unknown.png


Credit: https://kingfaris.co.uk/blog/cml-vs-adl/sottr
 
Last edited:
Kelt said:
All I've done so far is to set the core voltage manually to 1.26V, and the core multiplier to 51-P and 40-E.

Voila, rock solid 5.1/4 Ghz, with nice, cool and silent running.
Click to expand...

Was this on a asus mobo? If so, can you post a guide as to how you did it? I'm clueless with it now :D
 
RavenXXX2 said:
Is there an advantage in turning HT off and going with e-cores, many games use more than 6 cores, so not so good at gaming e-cores will be used.
Click to expand...

It's mainly a machine for a family member running minecraft. MC sucks with HT. I posted my results testing SOTTR and Final Fantasy with HT on/off, ecore on/off here before if you search.

Btw not posted here but oc'ing the igpu goes a long way as well!
 
@Robert896r1 thanks for posting what you did in regards to the OC tips. I did note that my memory (3600Mhz DDR sticks) were set on Auto for their Gear setting. That meant 900Mhz for the memory controller speed. However by changing that to Gear 1 that change the MC to 1800mhz, but then the CR went to 2T. I think that it was on 1T before I changed the Gear to Gear 1. But I would need to check that again.
memory.png


Not sure if the Uncore frequency would benefit from any change.
 
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