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The ignition switch will be able to supply plenty of Amps, assuming it has a conventional switch, but poking a cable though a grommet in the bulkhead can't be very difficult. How many Amps does the rig draw at worst, th cigarette lighter might be able to supply it, check the fuse rating for the fag lighter, assuming it's got one of those of course.

Can-Bus can do "funny things" to supply points, like shut them down altogether if a module sees a current draw when it is not expecting there to be one. There'll probably be a current sensor(s) direct to one or both battery terminals, so you need to think when the rig will be drawing current and what will happen if power to it stops altogether. Things like memories or whatever. Modern Can-Bus can be a Royal PITA. Hazard light switch often stays live all the time, YMMV.
 
Chris Wilson said:
The ignition switch will be able to supply plenty of Amps, assuming it has a conventional switch, but poking a cable though a grommet in the bulkhead can't be very difficult. How many Amps does the rig draw at worst, th cigarette lighter might be able to supply it, check the fuse rating for the fag lighter, assuming it's got one of those of course.

Can-Bus can do "funny things" to supply points, like shut them down altogether if a module sees a current draw when it is not expecting there to be one. There'll probably be a current sensor(s) direct to one or both battery terminals, so you need to think when the rig will be drawing current and what will happen if power to it stops altogether. Things like memories or whatever. Modern Can-Bus can be a Royal PITA.
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Many thanks for this. I'm going to do some digging. It does appear to be the simpler option poking cable through the firewall straight to the battery
 
It will be safest to have an inline fuse in BOTH the positive and negative leads into the rig. Most rigs designed for in vehicle use seem to have two, my TS-590 does. There's a good reason for it (ground loops frying something). If there's only one in the positive lead put a similarly rated one in the negative lead. if using blade fuses buy a BRANDED fuse holder, the Ebay junk can be source of resistance, and resistance is heat... (And less potential power output).

these are what I use, yes they look expensive, but they are a proper job....

FHAC0002ZXJ | Littelfuse 30A Inline Fuse Holder, 32V dc | RS

uk.rs-online.com uk.rs-online.com
 
Chris Wilson said:
It will be safest to have an inline fuse in BOTH the positive and negative leads into the rig. Most rigs designed for in vehicle use seem to have two, my TS-590 does. There's a good reason for it (ground loops frying something). If there's only one in the positive lead put a similarly rated one in the negative lead. if using blade fuses buy a BRANDED fuse holder, the Ebay junk can be source of resistance, and resistance is heat... (And less potential power output).
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Yes defo! Can just see that now, *keys up the PTT* i can smell burning! lol
 
Hi guys, passed my intermediate a few months ago. Xiegu G90, UV-5R, FTDX10. Using a inverted V 20 meter EFW which works a treat. Mainly digital FT8/4 on 20 meters. Great hobby, very chilled. Furthest contact was the Falklands which is nearly 8K miles on 30 watts.
 
Excellent, well done, but the hobby needs more people actually SPEAKING to one another, I was initially a bit reticent about speaking on air, but now I love meeting new people in different countries. PLEASE don't become a "Digital Dave", the ability to talk to others across the globe via some wire strung up in the garden is something special. Despite young people saying they can do this with a mobile phone, all they're really doing is using a network to talk via a mast a few miles away.

There's a bloke on the Falkland Islands I speak to regularly, sounds like a girl, I very nearly made one of my well known on air faux pas!

He was the man who, (via amateur radio), was the first islander to alert the British media that the islands were under attack on the day war broke out. Nice chap, and with a half decent aerial 30 Watts is more than enough to chat to him, he has a very good setup over there. I can't recall his call sign, but it'll be in my log somewhere. Feek, what is it....?

Edit: Bob VP8LP

BBC NEWS | UK | How BBC man scooped invasion news

news.bbc.co.uk


:)
 
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At the moment I’m enjoying what I do. I don’t feel the need to chat. Experimenting with different antenna configurations is more my thing. I will probably get into CW next. There are plenty of HAM’s on HF thanks to covid.

Plenty to do which is why I like the hobby..

2E0ODN
 
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Really good propagation on 10 meters (and the 11 meter CB band of course) today. SSB voice with Uruguay, Japan, Venezuela, Argentina and many Asiatic / European Russians, most of Europe blah blah....

I am just using a basic 5/8ths wave vertical at about 40 feet and 20 to 50 Watts power. If people don't mind waiting for bands to open very modestly sized aerials on 10 or 11 meters can work the world.
 
Top Band is where the techy old `uns discuss their aches and pains when they have exhausted all talk about them in the local doctor's waiting room.

I have never had much luck with 80m, but my horizontal loop is naturally resonant on Top Band, albeit very peaky. Doesn't like 80 though, even with a tuner.

I can't believe how good 10m was today, I know the old hands say it can be amazing, but this was the first time I witnessed anything approaching how they have described a good opening. 5 and 9 plus reports from Brazil and Uruguay with me running a genuine 10 / 15W. Putting some decent coax on the vertical made a massive difference, should have done it ages ago,
 
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