** The Official ASUS P5N-E SLI & Ultra 650i Thread **

We know how fast it's running! - the reason it's probably bailing out in Orthos is the way have the voltage set up. [AUTO] is a disaster. The [+100mV] setting is what they now call voltage damper - it basically gives the VCore a boost so it can respond better to massive changes in load.

If you want 1.4V then select 1.3V from the VCore options and set [+100mV]. That way you know what voltage you actually are getting, as [AUTO] moves it up and down at will.

The VDroop on these boards is horrendous, but it's only really an issue if you have a problem with high idle temperatures as you need to dial in lots of VCore to get your overclock stable under load. I would seriously suggest you try the higher overclocks again with 1.4V+100mV or even 1.45V+100mV as I reckon you're under-shooting on the VCore at the moment. Faint Hearts/Fair Ladies/Big Overclocks etc. etc.
 
1.52v becomes 1.44v under full load. Temps are hovering around the 70c mark though :eek: can I get away with that?

Just trying a 3.4ghz Orthos run :)

*edit - that's with 1510 qfsb, 377x9
 
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andyp said:
1.52v becomes 1.44v under full load. Temps are hovering around the 70c mark though :eek: can I get away with that?

Just trying a 3.4ghz Orthos run :)

*edit - that's with 1510 qfsb, 377x9
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Yes, those temperatures are getting to the top end of respectable, but 3.4GHz isn't to be sniffed at. And it may well run a bit faster at that voltage yet anyway.
 
I just can't get this over 3ghz.

Any combination of multi and fsb crashes windows either during or immediately after boot. It is perfectly 100% stable at 3ghz though.

I have the NB voltage set one down from maximum though with no active cooling on it - I can transfer one of my 80mm case fans across to the NB if that could be the major factor in this?
 
At that voltage you might have hit the limit of the CPU. My E2180 does 3.33GHz stable with 1.475v set in the BIOS and while it boots at 3.6GHz I can't get it stable regardless of the voltage I try.
 
Anyone got the latest BIOS and is having USB keyboard problems?

My Microsoft recluser(sP*) keyboard just won't work in the bios anymore.

I have to unplug it to get it to boot and then plug it back in at the login screen.
 
I just flashed to 0703 to see what its like and it sucks:mad:

Got memory timing issues and cannot get it past 3Ghz no matter what I raise the voltage to.

I need to flash back to 0608.

If I rename the file to 0704, will I be able to still flash as in the bios it doesnt see 0608?

Many Thanks :)
 
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Anyone recommend a cooling heatsink for the chipset on this board (ASUS P5N-E SLI) seems to run very warm. I not sure either about fixing this to the chipset would the board have fixing holes to allow a third party heatsink?
 
hardtarget said:
Anyone recommend a cooling heatsink for the chipset on this board (ASUS P5N-E SLI) seems to run very warm. I not sure either about fixing this to the chipset would the board have fixing holes to allow a third party heatsink?
Click to expand...

Both the Zalman's fit, and the Thermalright HR-05 and HR-05 SLI do too so there is loads of choice, but a Zalman fan bracket with a small fan or an Antec Spotcool pointed at the stock cooler cools it a treat. The problem isn't the size of the stock cooler, or even the contact area, it's the poor airflow allowed by all the fancy after-market CPU coolers people fit to these boards. They don't generate any lateral airflow like the stock cooler does.
 
Yep the stock NB heatsink isn't bad, you just need to re-apply AS5 and point a small fan at it. I have antec spotcool and it's brilliant, just make sure you have the fan on the lowest setting otherwise it's quite noisy.
 
Ive done nothing to my board and the stock hs is fine at 1.7v & 3.4ghz. I dont even run a fan on it anymore because its largely down to the ambient temp or case air flow.
 
Cheers for the quick reply :D IF I remove the stock heatsink is it easy to remove? Also what about the southbridge would that need any extra cooling and if so how would you attach it there are no mounting holes I noticed :confused: Thanks again.
 
silversurfer said:
Ive done nothing to my board and the stock hs is fine at 1.7v & 3.4ghz. I dont even run a fan on it anymore because its largely down to the ambient temp or case air flow.
Click to expand...
I did notice my 8800GTS does throw out extra heat into my case which doesnt help with this board. I will be upgrading soon, but this will go a friend who knows nothing about PC hardware he's just a gamer and I don't want him moaning about his rig crashing after an hour of gaming due to heat.
 
After deciding on leaving my E2180 overclock at 3.0ghz, I've now decided to have a go at seeing if I can get anything more out of it. A couple of questions first though -

My OCZ 6400 XTC rev.2 is currently running 800mhz (linked 2:3 in BIOS to 1200QFSB) 4-4-4-9 2T @ 2.085vdimm. No errors in a full run of memtest.

How much of an increase would I see in upping the mhz and then what would be the difference trying to get it running 1T?

Given I'll have to drop the multi down to get the CPU over 3ghz I'll have to run the memory sync'd to the clockspeed so what kind of upper figure should I be looking for with the memory speed? 850, 875 ish? And would that require loosening the timings a little?
 
Anyone have a problem where the system wont post with the SLI selector set to single card mode?

I have to set it to dual cards to post with either my old 8800GTS or the new GT
 
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