Soldato
Cheers!
It's actually the recommended "novice" track gearing of 49-16 which is 82.7GI.
At Herne Hill Velodrome they suggest this until you start racing at which point they recommend 88GI+.
****The Official Road Bicycle Gallery Thread****
- Thread starter Asprilla
- Start date
Cheers!
It's actually the recommended "novice" track gearing of 49-16 which is 82.7GI.
At Herne Hill Velodrome they suggest this until you start racing at which point they recommend 88GI+.
Associate
Yeah they are brilliant aren't they I love it im up to about 500 on this one so far, its so comfy compared to my last one I had a halfords carrera jobbie! does your rear brake cable rattle sometimes in the top tube? Its the only thing that annoys me about the bike. Such a lot of bike for the money.
Caporegime
I guess I'm thinking single speed for the road. My road SS is 48*18, so it's taller than that, but then I expect that go up the odd incline, rather than just round and round and round
Soldato
I guess I'm thinking single speed for the road. My road SS is 48*18, so it's taller than that, but then I expect that go up the odd incline, rather than just round and round and round
Yeah my commuter single-speed is 48-17, wouldn't go any higher.
I can see how the track might not appeal... going round and round in a circle staring at mostly male, lycra-clad arse. That said, it is a lot of fun and it's nice to have variety. I still have yet to sample cyclocross!
Caporegime
Oh, I'm not dismissing track cycling. I'd like to give it a go sometime. You're just less likely to encounter gradients in the same way you do on the roads!
My Agree also has that top tube cable rattle and there has now been 2 ocassions where I have been off the bike and ready to throw it in a loch as it has been annoying me that much
Associate
My Agree also has that top tube cable rattle and there has now been 2 ocassions where I have been off the bike and ready to throw it in a loch as it has been annoying me that much
Glad im not the only one then, kinda glad I didn't go for the SL dread to think how much that rattles!! I think im going to have the cable out sometime over the winter and try sleeve it somehow.
Can't you just add some rubber grommets along the length of the cable where it contats your tob tube?
Internal cable I guess.
Man of Honour
In my limited experience it's not at all hard to blow yourself up in the same way you would on gradients. Not having to slow or stop ever is also a very different experience to road cycling - reminded me of being on the turbo actually (though a lot more fun).
Yes, I had this at the start although I just pushed it through a little towards the brake and it seemed to stop. I haven't heard it since and LBS seemed to have seen the same problem before and fixed it that way.
Soldato
Finally got my track bike up to a spec I'm happy with prior to an SQT this weekend, and hopefully a session at Herne Hill Sunday.
The bar tape was torn, so new tape to match the team kit (Looks way more fluro in rl). New (to me) Dura Ace 7710 crankset, with a (I'm full of U-turns this week) Stages PM and a Miche 49T ring at the moment. Really didn't fancy estimating watts and TSS on the track so decided a stages was the next best thing, short of getting a track Power2Max which are only Type S models.
The bar tape was torn, so new tape to match the team kit (Looks way more fluro in rl). New (to me) Dura Ace 7710 crankset, with a (I'm full of U-turns this week) Stages PM and a Miche 49T ring at the moment. Really didn't fancy estimating watts and TSS on the track so decided a stages was the next best thing, short of getting a track Power2Max which are only Type S models.
Last edited:
Soldato
I think you should do my bar tape!
My wrapping job is abysmal as you'll see.
My wrapping job is abysmal as you'll see.
Soldato
Ha, don't mind doing it if you want me to, always found it fairly simple to do.
JunglistE - Could you please use the other threads, you're sort of clogging up the thread with stuff that has been answered elsewhere.
[edited- As above -
I've removed these items before the thread goes way of topic. By all means ask brief questions etc.. but more in depth discussions should be taken outside the thread. thanks
Huddy]
[edited- As above -
I've removed these items before the thread goes way of topic. By all means ask brief questions etc.. but more in depth discussions should be taken outside the thread. thanks
Huddy]
FFWD branded only, purely because the 240s was £300 more! Which just didn't have justifiction for me at that sort of price jump.
These F4R I got were £300 below RRP, great price on Wiggle
I did look at all options including Enve, but nothing was even remotely close to these price wise here in UK. Amazing bang for buck FFWD branded only, purely because the 240s was £300 more! Which just didn't have justifiction for me at that sort of price jump.
These F4R I got were £300 below RRP, great price on Wiggle
I had to buy here, or buy a front and rear wheel on their own to get around import tax. Plus the arse has fallen out the dollar in the last 12-18 months so wiggle not so cheap anymore!
If I knew someone with the ffwd hub I'd have looked at it in person first and maybe gone for those.
Have you ridden them in the rain, Vittoria CX get a bad rap on weight weenies for wet riding. Only ridden mine in the wet a few times and took it easy so can't comment.
Soldato
- Joined
- 23 Nov 2004
- Posts
- 10,648
I've not had the newer ffwd hub apart but apparently it takes elements from the dt hub.
Not sure if that means a similar star drive pawl system or not.
I like ffwd wheels, would get those or shimano wheels if I had the coin.
Not sure if that means a similar star drive pawl system or not.
I like ffwd wheels, would get those or shimano wheels if I had the coin.