Soldato
/starts sweepstake on how big the pile of leftover bits will be once it's all back together 
The RX7 rebuild thread
- Thread starter DreXeL
- Start date
I can't wait to see the inside of it. Have a good holiday matey. 
Soldato
Glad to see all is well so far Have a brilliant holiday and i hope things continue as smooth as this for you.
Have a brilliant holiday and i hope things continue as smooth as this for you.
Caporegime
Will Gill said:how the hell do you know where all the bits go back?
braver man than me drex
quoted for truth
i wouldnt care if i had a video telling me what to do, let alone a book. I still wouldnt attempt it
Associate
whats the spec on that engine size bhp mods etc
Yep, 2x683cc Rotors (Classed as 2.6 by most insurance companys) Twin sequential Turbos.
Was dyno'd at 341bhp by previous owner, I have since fitted an Apexi Power FC and had it mapped, and the car felt a lot stronger, so I estimate it was around 350+ before a waterseal went (nothing to do with the extra power).
Engine mods are:
HKS Mushroom induction x2
Greddy front-mounted intercooler + hardpipes
Greddy intake elbow
Greddy pully kit
Greddy downpipe
HKS Profec B boost controller
Apexi Power FC ECU
Kakimoto full decat exhuast
Sugita Works uprated radiator
Blitz BOV
Airpump removed
Colder plugs all-round (10's)
Whilst it's apart I'm probably going to get some porting done, and maybe get some 1600 secondary injectors, with uprated fuel pump and regulator. That will allow me to run more boost, and I should see near 400bhp with the porting.
Was dyno'd at 341bhp by previous owner, I have since fitted an Apexi Power FC and had it mapped, and the car felt a lot stronger, so I estimate it was around 350+ before a waterseal went (nothing to do with the extra power).
Engine mods are:
HKS Mushroom induction x2
Greddy front-mounted intercooler + hardpipes
Greddy intake elbow
Greddy pully kit
Greddy downpipe
HKS Profec B boost controller
Apexi Power FC ECU
Kakimoto full decat exhuast
Sugita Works uprated radiator
Blitz BOV
Airpump removed
Colder plugs all-round (10's)
Whilst it's apart I'm probably going to get some porting done, and maybe get some 1600 secondary injectors, with uprated fuel pump and regulator. That will allow me to run more boost, and I should see near 400bhp with the porting.
Associate
Best of luck, you will need it - what a horrible engine to work on.
My thoughts exactly, I'm sure DreX knows what he's doing but that all looks so horribly complicated. It's quite incredible that there are people around who can plan, design and make stuff like this. Makes you realise how clever some of us are. I just get in my car and drive it to where I want to get, I don't really think about the engineering behind the whole thing.Clarkey said:started to winder what you've got yourself in for yet?scarty amount of parts lying around now and its just getting started!
Soldato
Rather boring, actually.
There's only three moving parts all together!! The two rotors and the eccentric shaft!!
There's three flat surfaces (ok, one is double sided, so I guess that makes four), and two pieces that look like a figure eight has been removed from inside them. That pretty much comprises the block.
Everything else bolts on the outside (water pump, ignition, intake and exhaust manifolds, etc). There's no valves, no camshaft, no pushrods, no timing belt or chain, no connecting rods, no pistons. Just a shaft with two gears (actually not even gears, just eccentric lobes really) on it (ok, three if you include the distributor drive gear), two triangular rotors, two housings with holes in them (intake and exhaust ports), and three plates.
Stick an oil pan on the bottom with two seperate oil pumps (one for internal lubrication, and one to inject oil in the intake manifold) and you've got a complete rotary engine!!
There's only three moving parts all together!! The two rotors and the eccentric shaft!!
There's three flat surfaces (ok, one is double sided, so I guess that makes four), and two pieces that look like a figure eight has been removed from inside them. That pretty much comprises the block.
Everything else bolts on the outside (water pump, ignition, intake and exhaust manifolds, etc). There's no valves, no camshaft, no pushrods, no timing belt or chain, no connecting rods, no pistons. Just a shaft with two gears (actually not even gears, just eccentric lobes really) on it (ok, three if you include the distributor drive gear), two triangular rotors, two housings with holes in them (intake and exhaust ports), and three plates.
Stick an oil pan on the bottom with two seperate oil pumps (one for internal lubrication, and one to inject oil in the intake manifold) and you've got a complete rotary engine!!
Associate
even though it's simple, there was no way i was gonna try to od the engine on mine!
Internal parts pics!!!!
Right, sorry for the lack of an update, I haven't had a lot of spare time over the last couple of weeks. Cracked on today though, and the engine is completely stripped now.
Internal components seperated:
The rotors are coked-up pretty badly, but are in good condition otherwise, (sorry for the quality of these pics):
And here is the reason I am having to rebuild it, the arrow points to the water-seal, and the circle is where it has perished, allowing water into the chamber:
All the housings etc look in good condition, but I am going to take them to RX-Motors to get them checked over. Oh, they'll also get ported whilst they are there.
With the porting and the de-coking, I should get a nice power gain when it's all back together. I have also discovered that I have a lightened flywheel, which is nice.
So now it's a case of cleaning it all up, and then it's time to put it all back together when I get the rebuild kit, which I'll be ordering next week.
Right, sorry for the lack of an update, I haven't had a lot of spare time over the last couple of weeks. Cracked on today though, and the engine is completely stripped now.
Internal components seperated:
The rotors are coked-up pretty badly, but are in good condition otherwise, (sorry for the quality of these pics):
And here is the reason I am having to rebuild it, the arrow points to the water-seal, and the circle is where it has perished, allowing water into the chamber:
All the housings etc look in good condition, but I am going to take them to RX-Motors to get them checked over. Oh, they'll also get ported whilst they are there.
With the porting and the de-coking, I should get a nice power gain when it's all back together. I have also discovered that I have a lightened flywheel, which is nice.
So now it's a case of cleaning it all up, and then it's time to put it all back together when I get the rebuild kit, which I'll be ordering next week.
Soldato
Wow looks like you're making some good progress and learning a lot about engines fast!!
It's crazy that you've had the pull the whole thing apart for something so small as pictured above, they're fragile things cars aren't they?
Good luck with the rest of the job Drexel, it's too nice a car to have off the road for much longer.
Good luck with the rest of the job Drexel, it's too nice a car to have off the road for much longer.
Soldato
Looking good fella.
Out of interest what did Mazda do to solve the 60k rebuild problem with the RX8, and has anyone turbocharged that engine yet?
Out of interest what did Mazda do to solve the 60k rebuild problem with the RX8, and has anyone turbocharged that engine yet?