The µ43 thread - welcome to the really dark side

The E-M1 got a pretty hefty firmware update last year that I believe added quite a lot of the features from the newer cameras. I'm not sure exactly what, but worth comparing the new feature list with the mk2s to see what you're missing. Sensor performance is very similar across the 3 so go on features/ergonomics vs price.
 
i've just ordered a brand new em 1 for £470 which i think is a rather decent price. I decided the ergonomics and improved continous AF over the more recent models was worth it for me. Looking forward to getting this back in my bag.
 
Christ the 7-14 is good...8 images stitched by Lightroom. The 14mm end is seemingly PERFECT for panos...

milfordpano.jpg
 
"I get by with a little help from my friend" hehe, friend being photoshop in this instance, its amazing what it can do stitching images perfectly in sync together!
 
daelo said:
"I get by with a little help from my friend" hehe, friend being photoshop in this instance, its amazing what it can do stitching images perfectly in sync together!
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PS couldn't actually handle this one. I have discovered lightroom can do it though, and it made this :)
 
snow patrol said:
i've just ordered a brand new em 1 for £470 which i think is a rather decent price. I decided the ergonomics and improved continous AF over the more recent models was worth it for me. Looking forward to getting this back in my bag.
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I am looking at one of these. Where did you find that deal?
 
Hey everyone,

I bought an Olympus EPL1 back in the Summer but I'm only now getting round to learning how to use it properly. I've got a couple of questions:

When using it indoors (where lighting isn't great) I can't seem to get decent pictures. Lowering the shutter speed with the lens kit from the box (f/3.5 being widest aperture) results in bright but blurry pictures as I can't seem to hold it stead enough, but increasing the shutter speed leads to unnaturally dark pictures, even with the flash on. The image stabilisation has four settings (Off, IS 1, 2, 3), which is the best one to go for, and is there anything else I can do to improve indoor shots?

I like city breaks. This year I've got Prague and Rome planned. I feel like my photographs would benefit from an upgraded lens, but I'm really not sure what type of lens lends itself best to urban environments (I was thinking a better zoom lens?). If I could get some direction on this front I'd be grateful!

Finally, I'm not looking to spend a fortune on any gear and I am happy to buy stuff second hand. Where do you guys tend to get your second hand gear?

Thanks!
 
Tacitus said:
Hey everyone,

I bought an Olympus EPL1 back in the Summer but I'm only now getting round to learning how to use it properly. I've got a couple of questions:

When using it indoors (where lighting isn't great) I can't seem to get decent pictures. Lowering the shutter speed with the lens kit from the box (f/3.5 being widest aperture) results in bright but blurry pictures as I can't seem to hold it stead enough, but increasing the shutter speed leads to unnaturally dark pictures, even with the flash on. The image stabilisation has four settings (Off, IS 1, 2, 3), which is the best one to go for, and is there anything else I can do to improve indoor shots?

I like city breaks. This year I've got Prague and Rome planned. I feel like my photographs would benefit from an upgraded lens, but I'm really not sure what type of lens lends itself best to urban environments (I was thinking a better zoom lens?). If I could get some direction on this front I'd be grateful!

Finally, I'm not looking to spend a fortune on any gear and I am happy to buy stuff second hand. Where do you guys tend to get your second hand gear?

Thanks!
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Sounds like you're using manual mode. Absolutely nothing wrong with it, but aperture priority or shutter speed priority are probably easier to get your head around the exposure triangle (aperture + shutter speed + ISO) before moving on to manual.

In your example, I think your ISO needs adjusting. If it's blurry, you've selected too low a shutter speed. I assume you've already selected the widest aperture, so you need to increase the ISO which would allow you to select a faster shutter speed while still having it bright. If it's too dark, your shutter speed is too fast and there isn't enough light coming in, so you again you need to increase the ISO. Unfortunately your camera is pretty old and the sensor is kinda naff (I used to have an E-P1), so anything above say ISO 1600 will start to look bad.

As for lens recommendations, M4/3 has a lot of great prime lenses in the selection. Cheap zoom lenses, not so much. I'm probably forgetting some, but the only other zoom lenses which would actually be an upgrade would be the Panasonic 12-35mm, Olympus 12-40mm and Panasonic 7-14mm (or Olympus 9-18mm), and you're looking at 300-500 for each, even second hand.

Prime lenses on the other hand, you have the Panasonic 14mm which can be had for under £100, Panasonic 25mm f/1.4 for around £200-£250 I believe, Olympus 17mm f/2.8 or f/1.8 for around £200 (the former quite a bit cheaper), Olympus 45mm for around £150...

There is also the option of renting lenses for the trip too, so you could get one of those nice zoom lenses for quite a bit less than it would be to purchase...
 
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Smeghead said:
Sounds like you're using manual mode. Absolutely nothing wrong with it, but aperture priority or shutter speed priority are probably easier to get your head around the exposure triangle (aperture + shutter speed + ISO) before moving on to manual.

In your example, I think your ISO needs adjusting. If it's blurry, you've selected too low a shutter speed. I assume you've already selected the widest aperture, so you need to increase the ISO which would allow you to select a faster shutter speed while still having it bright. If it's too dark, your shutter speed is too fast and there isn't enough light coming in, so you again you need to increase the ISO. Unfortunately your camera is pretty old and the sensor is kinda naff (I used to have an E-P1), so anything above say ISO 1600 will start to look bad.

As for lens recommendations, M4/3 has a lot of great prime lenses in the selection. Cheap zoom lenses, not so much. I'm probably forgetting some, but the only other zoom lenses which would actually be an upgrade would be the Panasonic 12-35mm, Olympus 12-40mm and Panasonic 7-14mm (or Olympus 9-18mm), and you're looking at 300-500 for each, even second hand.

Prime lenses on the other hand, you have the Panasonic 14mm which can be had for under £100, Panasonic 25mm f/1.4 for around £200-£250 I believe, Olympus 17mm f/2.8 or f/1.8 for around £200 (the former quite a bit cheaper), Olympus 45mm for around £150...

There is also the option of renting lenses for the trip too, so you could get one of those nice zoom lenses for quite a bit less than it would be to purchase...
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Thanks for all your advice! I got the camera (body + lens kit) for around £100, which I think I'd have struggled to beat at that price.

You are correct, I'm playing around with the settings on manual mode, though I was reluctant to raise the ISO above 400 or so, fearing it'd make photos too grainy.

As for prime lenses, I am interested in getting one down the road, but I am not sure if they'll be useful for taking landscape shots in cities and the countryside due to the shallow depth of field?

Would I not be better served with a longer zoom lens that goes to 150mm?
 
Tacitus said:
As for prime lenses, I am interested in getting one down the road, but I am not sure if they'll be useful for taking landscape shots in cities and the countryside due to the shallow depth of field?

Would I not be better served with a longer zoom lens that goes to 150mm?
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Depends on what photos you plan on taking/your style of photography. On all my recent holidays, while I very occasionally wanted something with more reach, I used something on the wider end about 70-80% of the time. When I went to New York, I took a 28mm and a 50mm lens (with a film camera mind), and when I went to China and Hong Kong, I took my E-P5 with 17mm and 25mm lenses (35mm and 50mm equivalents respectively). Personally I found them enough, but YMMV.

Also about depth of field, don't forget that Micro Four Thirds are considered smaller sensors. That alone means you have a deeper depth of field (i.e. it is harder to get shallow DoF). But if you have a fast wide angle lens (like the 12mm f/2 or 17mm f/1.8 which is borderline wide angle, but still on the wider end), even if you shoot wide open, if you're shooting a typical landscape shot (with everything all pretty in the far distance), just about everything is going to be in focus. It's hard to get shallow DoF with a wide angle lens. The only way you're going to get it is if you shoot a subject which is really close to you. Also having a fast wide angle lens means you can shoot at night wide open, which lets you keep the ISO down (thus better image quality).

I hope I'm not boring you (or anyone else) with all this.
 
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Smeghead said:
Depends on what photos you plan on taking/your style of photography. On all my recent holidays, while I very occasionally wanted something with more reach, I used something on the wider end about 70-80% of the time. When I went to New York, I took a 28mm and a 50mm lens (with a film camera mind), and when I went to China and Hong Kong, I took my E-P5 with 17mm and 25mm lenses (35mm and 50mm equivalents respectively). Personally I found them enough, but YMMV.

Also about depth of field, don't forget that Micro Four Thirds are considered smaller sensors. That alone means you have a deeper depth of field (i.e. it is harder to get shallow DoF). But if you have a fast wide angle lens (like the 12mm f/2 or 17mm f/1.8 which is borderline wide angle, but still on the wider end), even if you shoot wide open, if you're shooting a typical landscape shot (with everything all pretty in the far distance), just about everything is going to be in focus. It's hard to get shallow DoF with a wide angle lens. The only way you're going to get it is if you shoot a subject which is really close to you. Also having a fast wide angle lens means you can shoot at night wide open, which lets you keep the ISO down (thus better image quality).

I hope I'm not boring you (or anyone else) with all this.
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No your not. So far- or at least on general walkabout (day/night) I have found my 35mm f1.4 to be the most useful, followed by a 18mm and 50mm.
 
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joined the club yesterday with an em10 ii and 17mm prime. seems great so far.

498 and 298 (with 75 cash back on top) from park cameras at societies show.
 
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