***The Vapers Lounge*** 2.0

[slick rick]

If you check the reviews and discussions that tends to give you a idea on how good they are (well in the batch they brought at least). Not thought about getting a genuine lemo instead of a clone KF?

The Lemo is a superb device for the price. I must be honest i'm not a big RTA fan, I much prefer an RDA. The KF 4 just has a lot of hype around it and I was wondering if it lived up to it, I wouldn't want to stump up for the authentic mind without trying a clone first to see if I liked the way it performs.

 

[UKDTweak]

This morning I ordered my second Segelei 100watt, this time the Plus version, should arrive tomorrow via DHL... looks like ill be selling my V2.. no more 510 adjustments for me...
Just waiting for Evolv to fix and return my DNA 40 chip so I can complete the Hana clone upgrade... so then Ill have 2 Hana DNA 40 modz, one official box and one clone, but both real DNA 40 chips.. assuming I can solder those tiny holes!!
This is turning into an expensive hobby for me...

The Lemo is fantastic, easy to build on and gives great flavor and vapor, my friends at the local vape shop where surprised I could out do their Atlantis tanks with a single 1ohm coil at just 15w, plus hold lost more juice. Only cost me £20 as the store gives me at cost...

 

[slick rick]

This morning I ordered my second Segelei 100watt, this time the Plus version, should arrive tomorrow via DHL... looks like ill be selling my V2.. no more 510 adjustments for me...
Just waiting for Evolv to fix and return my DNA 40 chip so I can complete the Hana clone upgrade... so then Ill have 2 Hana DNA 40 modz, one official box and one clone, but both real DNA 40 chips.. assuming I can solder those tiny holes!!
This is turning into an expensive hobby for me...

The Lemo is fantastic, easy to build on and gives great flavor and vapor, my friends at the local vape shop where surprised I could out do their Atlantis tanks with a single 1ohm coil at just 15w, plus hold lost more juice. Only cost me £20 as the store gives me at cost...

The Sigeleis do seem to provide incredible bang for buck, and the Yihi chipsets are brilliant IMO.

What was wrong with the DNA 40 chipset mate?

 

[UKDTweak]

Yeah the Sigelei has been rock solid and the performance is fantastic, though I normally run between .2ohm and .7ohm at 30watts so its wasted power, only time ive used the 100w has been to show off the clouds to my mates.. but at 30 - 40 watts the battery last ages, running two pairs of VTC5's, possibly fakes, that I got from uk ecigstore.

I managed to snap the ribbon off the screen while trying to line up its placement in the hana clones view window, while I was pushing the screen down into place the chip caught some of the hot glue overhanging the up button and the cable separated from the screen... I contacted Evolv and they gave me a returns form and said that if I paid via paypal and shipped it to them, they would fix or replace the screen and return it... only $10.. but it cost me £11 to ship to them, means my cheap dna 40 wont be as cheap as originally planned, but still cheaper than the real deal I bought in the mean time lol

 

[slick rick]

Yeah the Sigelei has been rock solid and the performance is fantastic, though I normally run between .2ohm and .7ohm at 30watts so its wasted power, only time ive used the 100w has been to show off the clouds to my mates.. but at 30 - 40 watts the battery last ages, running two pairs of VTC5's, possibly fakes, that I got from uk ecigstore.

I managed to snap the ribbon off the screen while trying to line up its placement in the hana clones view window, while I was pushing the screen down into place the chip caught some of the hot glue overhanging the up button and the cable separated from the screen... I contacted Evolv and they gave me a returns form and said that if I paid via paypal and shipped it to them, they would fix or replace the screen and return it... only $10.. but it cost me £11 to ship to them, means my cheap dna 40 wont be as cheap as originally planned, but still cheaper than the real deal I bought in the mean time lol

Same with me, I very rarely go above 45 watts on the IPV3, its nice to know the power is there I guess but it does seem incredibly overkill!

I am sure that is very easy to do as the ribbon looks super delicate, I would have no chance fitting one as I am fairly clumsy. That is a very good price for a repair, kudos to Evolv for that. It is a big shame about the return shipping cost though, Does the $10 also cover the return to you?

 

[UKDTweak]

Yeah its def overkill, only handy for showing off ... I have two pairs of VTC5's, so I rotate between charges and swap out around 50% on the screen, and that will last me two days easily at 30 watts
I was very pleased with the fast reply and response from Evolv and as far as I know the $10 covers return as the email said, for that they would "fix or replace the screen and return it"... so hopefully it does...

Yeah its the soldering that's got me worried, I had only soldered the + and - leads from the battery sled so that I could power it up and see the display working, to help line it up in the mods window... the other wires that need soldered have much smaller and closer solder holes, so im dreading that part as I don't have steady hands and I think I might need to grind down the tip of my soldering iron to a finer point as its much to big a head for such tiny solder joints...

 

[Wazz-1]

The Lemo is a superb device for the price. I must be honest i'm not a big RTA fan, I much prefer an RDA. The KF 4 just has a lot of hype around it and I was wondering if it lived up to it, I wouldn't want to stump up for the authentic mind without trying a clone first to see if I liked the way it performs.

I will never understand that mentality, trying a cheap copy to gauge how an original performs

 

[slick rick]

Yeah its def overkill, only handy for showing off ... I have two pairs of VTC5's, so I rotate between charges and swap out around 50% on the screen, and that will last me two days easily at 30 watts
I was very pleased with the fast reply and response from Evolv and as far as I know the $10 covers return as the email said, for that they would "fix or replace the screen and return it"... so hopefully it does...

Yeah its the soldering that's got me worried, I had only soldered the + and - leads from the battery sled so that I could power it up and see the display working, to help line it up in the mods window... the other wires that need soldered have much smaller and closer solder holes, so im dreading that part as I don't have steady hands and I think I might need to grind down the tip of my soldering iron to a finer point as its much to big a head for such tiny solder joints...

The 2 batteries do make the device fairly big and heavy, its great for relaxing at home but a little impractical for taking out and about but as you say having
the 2 batteries does wonders for the endurance between charges.

That is very impressive service from Evolv I must say. I am sure you will be fine with the soldering if you take your time, can you change the tip of the iron for a smaller one or is it fixed?

I will never understand that mentality, trying a cheap copy to gauge how an original performs

Not how it performs per se, but is the form factor nice, how are the mechanics for building it, what is the air flow like. These questions can often be answered by trying a clone if you can not have a go on an authentic.

If you have the funds to by a £130+ device that you may or may not like then that's great, unfortunately I do not fall into that camp.

 

[Wazz-1]

SNIP

 

[UKDTweak]

The tip of my soldering iron is removable, just a screw tightens don't to clamp it to the main shaft and handle.. was thinking out taking it out and grinding the other end so I can chop and change in future, it was a cheap iron as part of a kit..

 

[slick rick]

The tip of my soldering iron is removable, just a screw tightens don't to clamp it to the main shaft and handle.. was thinking out taking it out and grinding the other end so I can chop and change in future, it was a cheap iron as part of a kit..

Grinding the one side down seems like a good idea so you will have like a dual use tip with a different end either side for different jobs.

 

[monkeyspank]

It's not just the size of the tip that you need to think about. What wattage is it? You might melt the board.

 

[slinxy]

Yeah its def overkill, only handy for showing off ... I have two pairs of VTC5's, so I rotate between charges and swap out around 50% on the screen, and that will last me two days easily at 30 watts
I was very pleased with the fast reply and response from Evolv and as far as I know the $10 covers return as the email said, for that they would "fix or replace the screen and return it"... so hopefully it does...

Yeah its the soldering that's got me worried, I had only soldered the + and - leads from the battery sled so that I could power it up and see the display working, to help line it up in the mods window... the other wires that need soldered have much smaller and closer solder holes, so im dreading that part as I don't have steady hands and I think I might need to grind down the tip of my soldering iron to a finer point as its much to big a head for such tiny solder joints...

I've never created a mod before, but I'm quite the dab hand when it comes to electronics, its another expensive hobby of mine and I'd did do it as a profession for over two years.

Most people just melt the solder on to the pin or connector, but the best way of doing it is to apply heat to the connect itself and then apply the solder to it, this way a really bound is created; if not the solder will just flake off or/and do all kind of **** stuff.

With the nature of a mod; just making assumptions here with my micro-electronics history as I've never made one. I would use a solder with a very high melting point, most PCB boards have an extremely high melting point, again I've not seen the Evolv board, so I'm not sure if the tracks are on the surface or embeded in (and how deep).

I would certainly use a lead free one, get some good solider and turn your iron (if its heat adjustable) to the temperture just above the the melting point of the solder, apply the iron to the solder point with the wire in place, and hold it there for a while so the heat is transfered to the board and wire. While keeping it there, with the other hand (your more dextrous hand) apply the solder to the tip where the board, wire and iron meets. Think like making the stick with solider and your poking the connection point with it. The solder will just melt off and make a connection.

This way you can layout all your wires neating as your just using the solder to keep it place, rather that blob solder on to the board then place the wire on top. If there's a hole for the wire on the board, pop the wire in the hole and do the same thing.

I would love the make a mod, but I know I just fall deeper into the rabbit hole.

Oh you should be able to pick up soldering head for any removable head iron for 5-7 pounds.

Hope this helps

 

[V_R]

Best. Atty. Ever.

Been playing with the UTA all evening, done a few different builds in it, with different resistance and juices. It just wicks soooooo well! Settled on this build for now, with Scopes VG heavy Secret Sauce at 6mg, so much nom.

(yes I know the coils no in the middle, I moved it after taking the pics)

 

[Pestilence]

Looks nice! Any possibility of a pyrex tank for that one, or just the full metal if you don't want to risk cracking?

 

[V_R]

Full metal at the mo, but knowing Pete there could well be a Pyrex option on the cards. But certainly not yet, he's earned a break!

It's so good. Think the KF4 will be going on UKV classies soon...

 

[IceShock]

Forgive me, and my untrained rba eye, but what tank is that please? Looks pretty nifty, also, what drip tip is that? I see that now a days every one uses a wide open chimney type thingy, iv never used one.

Though like I said few hours ago, iv ordered Kayfun 4 clone and a mutant x, and they have well kinda the same styled drip tip to some extent, the wide circular chimney style tip, compaired to all the ones iv ever used.

This is the drip tip I use on everything, I have literally 10 of them because iv been through so many protank 2 minis back when I used only them.

Hated the kayfun 3.1's drip tip, long thin thing was awful so I stuck one of these in it.

Spoiler

 

[Pestilence]

Forgive me, and my untrained rba eye, but what tank is that please? Looks pretty nifty, also, what drip tip is that? I see that now a days every one uses a wide open chimney type thingy, iv never used one.

Though like I said few hours ago, iv ordered Kayfun 4 clone and a mutant x, and they have well kinda the same styled drip tip to some extent, the wide circular chimney style tip, compaired to all the ones iv ever used.

This is the drip tip I use on everything, I have literally 10 of them because iv been through so many protank 2 minis back when I used only them.

Hated the kayfun 3.1's drip tip, long thin thing was awful so I stuck one of these in it.

Spoiler

The RBA pictured there is the Ubertoot UTA atomiser. With a rather perfect micro coil intact.

Your choice of tip is still the type I use. It just... fits the lips.

 

[IceShock]

Haha, yeah this drip tip feels nice on the lips, iv used it for a year now, don't know how id change tbh, but im interested in trying one of them big wide open chimney style ones as it is the in thing for everyone to have one, and soon ill have one to play with until no doubt ill stick this one on it lol

You know, I absolutely love the vapers lounge, Anything anyone needs to know about anything vape related, everyones here to help.

So to all of you, Top job lads, Theres no snide comments or immature comments.

It should be called ***The Gentlemen's Vapers lounge*** Or Club instead of lounge

 

[KnightStalker]

Im green with envy V_R, i so wanted to be on the list but i was never certain if i would have the money when he wanted it, hoping ill be more lucky if he decides to do more or even lucky to find one in the classies.