***The Vapers Lounge*** 2.0

[IceShock]

MANY MANY THANKS GUYS!!
Greatly appreciate it!

I will post back when all of the kit arrives because I'm sure I'll have some questions. I'm sure as I dwell deeper I'll need more forum members advice and knowledge.

For now though, thank you

No problem, If you need any help with your itaste and or pro tank 2, or coils, let me know, just drop me a trust message any time if I don't see your messages on here

 

[Gee]

Recently picked up some of the Liquido Zero from FlavourArt to try.

£8 for 100ml of ready to vape juice (Apple Fuji/100% VG/10% throat hit).

So this arrived on Saturday morning and I've had chance to vape it.

It's really nice to be fair, you can tell there's zero nicotine in it but the throat hit is an odd one.

Seems to me like it's more of a tickle than the usual straight HIT you get from a juice containing nicotine.

Tried it on my Freakshow RDA @ .8 (dual) and it absolutely chongs out the vapour. It's tasty indeed but I would've preferred it to have a bit more flavour if I'm honest.

£8 for 100ml though and I can't complain, I went with Apple Fuji which is probably hands down the best Apple I've tried. If you've got £8 spare, I recommend that you try some!

 

[Liquidfox]

So decided to try and rewick my Lemo tonight as I've had problems with dry burns and it's probably too much cotton blocking the juice channels. I've been on the Atlantis since Friday with 6mg 70% VG and didn't want to waste my good juice so put some of my older stuff in. Put in some juice to prime it and took a lung hit I'm used to doing that now, only to realise the juice I had in was 80% PG and 18mg that wasn't fun!

 

[IceShock]

Ok guys, iv got two questions,

Okay number 1:

You know how if you try to ballence a tank / rda on its 510 connector, its no doubt going to fall over or get knocked over easily..

Is there any device that holds it up perfectly on your desk, like a block of metal or something with loads of holes in it so you can store all your tanks / rda's up right so they don't leak liquid out on your desk top.

(that's for cheap-os like me who doesn't have enough money to buy a mod for every rda/tank I have)

Only thing iv found that works well is a O ring spanner. (I have one on the end of my bottle opener, don't ask, but when I go to open a beer which is often, I then have to hold my spare tank then whilst I open it lol).



And question 2: Mechanical mod question again.

Alright, I get the jist of a mechanical mod, it will fire what ever ohms correct, etc. But I still don't fully understand how the power works.

Like, iv just built a 28g 10 wrap, 1.8 ohm coil for my Kayfun v4 right now, And on a few pages back, I liked the look of a 4Nine mod that someone posted a picture of, looked pretty nifty a short mod with a tank on...

Anyway I built this 1.8ohms coil, im vaping it at 11w. which is 4.4v. so what would a mechanical mod be doing? what power would it be doing for the same build. I get you have to build the coil to a mechanical mod, or etleast I think, but how the hell do you know what its doing without it telling you or you telling it what power to give the coil?

That still confuses me.

Cheers tho for any help you can give

Edit: for anyone whos just noticed, I just built a coil in my kayfun v4, and if you remember me saying a few pages back, it wouldn't work no matter what I did. Well I cleaned it, give it a good soak with boiling hot water from a kettle, put it all back together, I used the glass tank instead of the plastic tank, and wala... for some reason its now working, before no liquid was coming through at all though the liquid channels was 100% clear, no idea why, but it wouldn't work, it was 100% dry hit, nothing worked, but now air bubbles are rising every drag, its working fine. Its definitely something to do with that plastic tank though that it didn't like. Its as if it created a vaccume to hold the liquid in the liquid chamber even if you removed the filler cap with the liquid control open or closed, nothing worked with the plastic tank on it.

 

[Crowort]

So this arrived on Saturday morning and I've had chance to vape it.

It's really nice to be fair, you can tell there's zero nicotine in it but the throat hit is an odd one.

Seems to me like it's more of a tickle than the usual straight HIT you get from a juice containing nicotine.

Tried it on my Freakshow RDA @ .8 (dual) and it absolutely chongs out the vapour. It's tasty indeed but I would've preferred it to have a bit more flavour if I'm honest.

£8 for 100ml though and I can't complain, I went with Apple Fuji which is probably hands down the best Apple I've tried. If you've got £8 spare, I recommend that you try some!

It likely has some kind of chilli extract in it. Years back some people used to add it to make their home made juice more like the Chinese juices. As time went on people got into sub ohming and/or wattage contorted mods and didn't need the added throat hit as much.

Not really shocked at the price, everything but nicotine is super cheap. I use a lot of flavour art concentrates myself.

 

[Uncle Petey]

Ok guys, iv got two questions,

Okay number 1:

You know how if you try to ballence a tank / rda on its 510 connector, its no doubt going to fall over or get knocked over easily..

Is there any device that holds it up perfectly on your desk, like a block of metal or something with loads of holes in it so you can store all your tanks / rda's up right so they don't leak liquid out on your desk top.

(that's for cheap-os like me who doesn't have enough money to buy a mod for every rda/tank I have)

Only thing iv found that works well is a O ring spanner. (I have one on the end of my bottle opener, don't ask, but when I go to open a beer which is often, I then have to hold my spare tank then whilst I open it lol).

There are plenty of different style rack type things you find on FT and other places.
If it helps, I use these to keep spare atties stable https://www.fasttech.com/p/1579700 and these for mech mods https://www.fasttech.com/p/1692306

 

[Crowort]

Ok guys, iv got two questions,

Okay number 1:

You know how if you try to ballence a tank / rda on its 510 connector, its no doubt going to fall over or get knocked over easily..

Is there any device that holds it up perfectly on your desk, like a block of metal or something with loads of holes in it so you can store all your tanks / rda's up right so they don't leak liquid out on your desk top.

(

Block of wood with some holes drilled in You can buy them but it is easy enough to make one yourself.

And question 2: Mechanical mod question again.

Alright, I get the jist of a mechanical mod, it will fire what ever ohms correct, etc. But I still don't fully understand how the power works.

Like, iv just built a 28g 10 wrap, 1.8 ohm coil for my Kayfun v4 right now, And on a few pages back, I liked the look of a 4Nine mod that someone posted a picture of, looked pretty nifty a short mod with a tank on...

Anyway I built this 1.8ohms coil, im vaping it at 11w. which is 4.4v. so what would a mechanical mod be doing? what power would it be doing for the same build. I get you have to build the coil to a mechanical mod, or etleast I think, but how the hell do you know what its doing without it telling you or you telling it what power to give the coil?

That still confuses me.

Cheers tho for any help you can give

The coil gets whatever power your battery outputs in a mech mod. So most people will build the coil to vape how they like at the volts the battery stays at most of the time. Fresh off the charger it will be around 4.2 volts but wil drop off into the 3s fairly fast and you'll soon know when it is too low.

 

[IceShock]

Block of wood with some holes drilled in You can buy them but it is easy enough to make one yourself.



The coil gets whatever power your battery outputs in a mech mod. So most people will build the coil to vape how they like at the volts the battery stays at most of the time. Fresh off the charger it will be around 4.2 volts but wil drop off into the 3s fairly fast and you'll soon know when it is too low.

You know, you've just given me the best info ever there.

Haha, im laughing now, holey hell why isn't there just a website that says:

"A mech mod will output the batteries power"

Iv never actually read that anywhere not once you know, Okay, so if I wanted to get a mechanical mod, id have to buy more powerfull batteries then, I vape at around 4.4/4.8v apparently, iv never ever taken notice of voltage at all because iv always gone off wattage. my batteries are all 3.7v apparently it says on the side of them.

My 18350 batteries are 900mAh 3.7v (I only use these when I need a shorter vamo in the car etc, when its shorter, it fits perfect in the slot next to handbrake)
and my 18650 batteries are 3.7v, 5000 mAh batteries.
The shorter batteries I got with my vamo v6, but I got the two longer ones off ebay for about 2 quid, im guessing that's bad and you guys would probably tell me to bin them now? but for what I do, they are working fine, im not going any lower than 0.8ohms in my dripper @ 20w maximum when dual coiling, and I usually vape single coil 1.8ohms 11-13w

But yeah +1 dude, that's the best explanation iv ever had of a mechanical mod.

 

[slinxy]

...

My 18350 batteries are 900mAh 3.7v (I only use these when I need a shorter vamo in the car etc, when its shorter, it fits perfect in the slot next to handbrake)
and my 18650 batteries are 3.7v, 5000 mAh batteries.
The shorter batteries I got with my vamo v6, but I got the two longer ones off ebay for about 2 quid, im guessing that's bad and you guys would probably tell me to bin them now? but for what I do, they are working fine, im not going any lower than 0.8ohms in my dripper @ 20w maximum when dual coiling, and I usually vape single coil 1.8ohms 11-13w
....

What the hell are thoose 18650s? 5000mAh is nearly double what most top batteries can store.. And for 2 quid

 

[V_R]

Ok guys, iv got two questions,

Okay number 1:

You know how if you try to ballence a tank / rda on its 510 connector, its no doubt going to fall over or get knocked over easily..

Is there any device that holds it up perfectly on your desk, like a block of metal or something with loads of holes in it so you can store all your tanks / rda's up right so they don't leak liquid out on your desk top.

(that's for cheap-os like me who doesn't have enough money to buy a mod for every rda/tank I have)

There are plenty of different style rack type things you find on FT and other places.
If it helps, I use these to keep spare atties stable https://www.fasttech.com/p/1579700

This! I have a load of the silver ones.

You know, you've just given me the best info ever there.

Haha, im laughing now, holey hell why isn't there just a website that says:

"A mech mod will output the batteries power"

Iv never actually read that anywhere not once you know, Okay, so if I wanted to get a mechanical mod, id have to buy more powerfull batteries then, I vape at around 4.4/4.8v apparently, iv never ever taken notice of voltage at all because iv always gone off wattage. my batteries are all 3.7v apparently it says on the side of them.

My 18350 batteries are 900mAh 3.7v (I only use these when I need a shorter vamo in the car etc, when its shorter, it fits perfect in the slot next to handbrake)
and my 18650 batteries are 3.7v, 5000 mAh batteries.
The shorter batteries I got with my vamo v6, but I got the two longer ones off ebay for about 2 quid, im guessing that's bad and you guys would probably tell me to bin them now? but for what I do, they are working fine, im not going any lower than 0.8ohms in my dripper @ 20w maximum when dual coiling, and I usually vape single coil 1.8ohms 11-13w

But yeah +1 dude, that's the best explanation iv ever had of a mechanical mod.

Please read up on battery safety. Amps etc. Soon! Before you get a mech!

 

[IceShock]

What the hell are thoose 18650s? 5000mAh is nearly double what most top batteries can store.. And for 2 quid

I got them from here, 3.50 they cost:

Spoiler

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291206020324?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Placed a spoiler as I don't know if linking a battery on ebay is considered competitor or not? not sure what the rules are of linking products about batteries here.


So I take it, you guys wouldn't touch these batteries with a barge pole?,
They've not done no wrong for me, though im not trying to do sub ohm crazy high wattage stuff though I guess.
And they never ever feel warm, not even when charging. they last for hours of vaping.

a 18350 900mah battery lasts me around 30 mins on a 1.8ohms coil @ 12w. single coil that is in a tank not rda, on a dual coil rda at 0.8 ohms, the small batterys last around hmm, 5 mins of blasting it.
these 18650 batterys that I linked, in a tank last a good 2 and half hours same coil, and in a rda they last etleast a 45 mins of constantly blasting it.

Please read up on battery safety. Amps etc. Soon! Before you get a mech!

Oh don't worry, I wont be getting a mech mod any time soon, I just liked the look of the 4nine cause its short but my wallet cannot afford more vape gear right now.
But yeah, I doubt id ever get a mechanical mod, cause im not going crazy ohms, a VW mod is pleantyful for me, it tells me when the ohms are too low for what I can do, jobs a good en
Apart from the fact that I like tinkering with my power settings, I don't wana be holding a Molotov cocktail in my hand thanks no offence to mech modders, us vapers are all a family !

 

[Iceni]

I don't wana be holding a Molotov cocktail in my hand thanks

I'm the same. The only batteries I use every day are the scratch and sniff efest 35A 2500MAh. Not the highest rated battery, and the 35A is a lie more like 20A continuous. However they hold charge well and provided you get them from a reputable dealer they tend to be good. I get at least a full day out of mine at 0.5ohms 20-30W. If I up the ohms to 1.5 then they outlast the day at <10W. I tend to swap them out every night regardless.

As for the mech, I know what my batteries will put out at 0.5 ohms. I know when they should be at the bottom of the charge window. And even armed with that I will still carry a spare and swap batteries after work. It's just not worth risking a vent when you can be safe.

The only stipulation that is really important when on the mech is knowing your kit. If you don't know how long your batteries will last and you can't meter your coil ohms then mechs are not the answer. Once you have a feel for your kit then mechs are a lot of fun. If your in doubt then get a regulated mod with more headroom. You can grab a regulated mod for £40 that will fire at 30-40W at 0.5ohms, And in all honesty a mech doesn't add much to that.

Not all batteries are equal either, I won't use my Efests under 0.5 ohms. I have 2 VTC5's that I don't have in rotation that sometimes get used at 0.3 ohms on the mech just for home or going to show off at the local vape shop.

For every day I like to know whats going on with the device, If the ohmage is wandering I know something is loose, If the battery is failing I can see it. The deeper down the rabbit hole you go the more often you will come across faults as your gear is generally played with more at home.

A good example is my Nautilus, I stripped it to clean it. Right down to taking the air flow ring off because the airflow was leaking old juice (you pull the top cap off the base plate with some pliers when it's held in a mod). When it went back together it all looked fine. Halfway through the next day I started to see faults. Turns out I had some cotton wool caught on the end of the internal + pin spring that was messing up my resistances. If I was on a mech I would not have even known there was an internal fault, perhaps even thinking the coil was faulty.

 

[IceShock]

I'm the same. The only batteries I use every day are the scratch and sniff efest 35A 2500MAh. Not the highest rated battery, and the 35A is a lie more like 20A continuous. However they hold charge well and provided you get them from a reputable dealer they tend to be good. I get at least a full day out of mine at 0.5ohms 20-30W. If I up the ohms to 1.5 then they outlast the day at <10W. I tend to swap them out every night regardless.

As for the mech, I know what my batteries will put out at 0.5 ohms. I know when they should be at the bottom of the charge window. And even armed with that I will still carry a spare and swap batteries after work. It's just not worth risking a vent when you can be safe.

The only stipulation that is really important when on the mech is knowing your kit. If you don't know how long your batteries will last and you can't meter your coil ohms then mechs are not the answer. Once you have a feel for your kit then mechs are a lot of fun. If your in doubt then get a regulated mod with more headroom. You can grab a regulated mod for £40 that will fire at 30-40W at 0.5ohms, And in all honesty a mech doesn't add much to that.

Not all batteries are equal either, I won't use my Efests under 0.5 ohms. I have 2 VTC5's that I don't have in rotation that sometimes get used at 0.3 ohms on the mech just for home or going to show off at the local vape shop.

For every day I like to know whats going on with the device, If the ohmage is wandering I know something is loose, If the battery is failing I can see it. The deeper down the rabbit hole you go the more often you will come across faults as your gear is generally played with more at home.

A good example is my Nautilus, I stripped it to clean it. Right down to taking the air flow ring off because the airflow was leaking old juice (you pull the top cap off the base plate with some pliers when it's held in a mod). When it went back together it all looked fine. Halfway through the next day I started to see faults. Turns out I had some cotton wool caught on the end of the internal + pin spring that was messing up my resistances. If I was on a mech I would not have even known there was an internal fault, perhaps even thinking the coil was faulty.

Damn, you are a genius haha, that all makes sense though, thanks for the info there buddy

You know, believe it or not as you mentioned about the ohms going up and down, I made a coil today on my rda that im still messing with, I cannot call my self a rda vaper by any means, im on a tank right now, but there fun to play with and blow huge clouds, but the vapes too warm and I cannot replicate the flavour I get from my single coil tanks to a rda yet, + the clouds.
but you know, its a hobby is vaping, so I will get my rda to how I like it one way or another, if possible.

But anyway, like I said I had that problem, when I was building the rda, my ohms jumped from 0.8 ohms, to 1.5ohms, then down to 0.5ohms, then up to 3ohms, I was like what the hell is going on here, turns out (cause I was building this on the cheap rda I have for messing around with), a piece of kanthal that I clipped off had got wedged between the rubber o ring and the bottom like shell of the rda, I was just about ready to bin it till I saw it, literally it couldn't of been longer than half a mil if that.

 

[chris74]

Never, ever scrimp on batteries. Sure buy a clone mod or atty but spend the money on the battery and dare I say it the charger too.

A 1.8ohm coil on a ideal brand new battery at 4.2watts is only putting out 9.8 watts. Simply not worth it.

Also a good rule of thumb is never to buy a battery that contains the word fire in it!.

The only batteries I own and use are 4x Samsung 25rs which are 20Amp continuous in my Sigelei 100w plus and when I use my mech mods I use Sony VTC4s which are rated for 30 amp continuous.

Use this handy bit of software to gauge the current/resistance/amperage and wattage to ascertain whether your battery is operating within safe limits:

http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.asp

 

[IceShock]

You know, for all the slating I did of my kayfun v4 tank because it wasn't working, ignore that. iv vaped it for 5 hrs solid now, and its performed flawlessly now its working.

Iv no idea what was wrong with the plastic tank that comes included with it like I said, it created some sort of vaccume that held the liquid where it was though all the juice channels was 100% unblocked. but with the glass tank, its working flawlessly, cant fault it now, apart from it drinks juice like a rda. but its definitely giving flavour and clouds consistently @ 1.8 ohms single coil 28g kanthal coil. Gutted I cant use the plastic tank so it doesn't bulge out, but ah well, it still does the job!

 

[Iceni]

You can cool your vape off either by making bigger coils, Not compressing the coils. Or my favorite is overwicking.

Overwicking is as simple as it sounds. Add another bit of cotton over the coil, And make sure the airflow is under the coil. It'll keep the coil cooler and stop spitting.

Depending on my RDA and the space inside it I work in 2 ways. If the coil has a lot of space round it like on the brass monkey I'll leave a long tail on the cotton. Push the cotton in either side like normal but take that long tail back over the top and tuck it in again. Or if the RDA is tighter and the overwick isn't going to move so easily like on a magma I'll just add a second wick over the top.

 

[IceShock]

Never, ever scrimp on batteries. Sure buy a clone mod or atty but spend the money on the battery and dare I say it the charger too.

A 1.8ohm coil on a ideal brand new battery at 4.2watts is only putting out 9.8 watts. Simply not worth it.

Also a good rule of thumb is never to buy a battery that contains the word fire in it!.

The only batteries I own and use are 4x Samsung 25rs which are 20Amp continuous in my Sigelei 100w plus and when I use my mech mods I use Sony VTC4s which are rated for 30 amp continuous.

Use this handy bit of software to gauge the current/resistance/amperage and wattage to ascertain whether your battery is operating within safe limits:

http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.asp

Just did that spec sheet.

My 1.8ohms single coils that I imputed to that website, and 12 w that im at now, that's 4.6 v, which is exactly what my vamo reads. so hmm, little confused about this again now, though my battery says 3.7v on it, and it gives out this power all the time when I ask it, is this safe then or not? also on that website it says 2.5A, it doesn't say anything about amps on the page I bought it from nore does it say it on the side of the battery

 

[IceShock]

You can cool your vape off either by making bigger coils, Not compressing the coils. Or my favorite is overwicking.

Overwicking is as simple as it sounds. Add another bit of cotton over the coil, And make sure the airflow is under the coil. It'll keep the coil cooler and stop spitting.

Depending on my RDA and the space inside it I work in 2 ways. If the coil has a lot of space round it like on the brass monkey I'll leave a long tail on the cotton. Push the cotton in either side like normal but take that long tail back over the top and tuck it in again. Or if the RDA is tighter and the overwick isn't going to move so easily like on a magma I'll just add a second wick over the top.

Bigger coils, as in diameter im guessing? ill give that a try tomorrow.

Iv only experimented 1.5mm to 2mm diameter coils so far, the taste like I say, I usually wrap, 30g kanthal 1.7mm im guessing (a tooth pick), and I used to wrap them on that, 30g kanthal, 9 wraps, it equalled 1.6-1.8 ohms all the time flawlessly in my protank 2 mini, that's the taste im trying to replicate in every build in different tanks and rda's that iv got now.

But like I say, experimenting at the same time with dual coil 28g kanthal jobs and ohms as low as 0.8, (which is two x my regular coils in a dual coil rda), its fun blowing big clouds and saying to my missus look at this, then looking like a fog machine, but I couldn't constantly vape like that for the life in me, I mean, dripping juice all the time, I don't know, if I found the flavour im looking for on a rda + the huge clouds, then it would be worth it, but so far, its just fun messing around at the moment, and I give it that, it is fun! haha.

Closest iv got to replicating my protank 2 mini's coolish vape, and amazing flavour, is in my kayfun v4 tonight, iv wrapped 28g kanthal, 10 wraps, 1.8 ohms and used just the perfect amount of cotton to keep the coil cool enough to keep it flavourful and not too warm for my liking. but compaired to my protank 2 mini, flavours lacking by 25%.

But I like experimenting, otherwise id of just stayed with a protank 2 mini, but I use my mini all the time im out and about, and inbetween builds so I know what the flavour is like that im trying to replicate cause I miss the taste of it lol.

But yeah, that's what im trying to do, replicate the nice coolish vape (from the way I set up my protank 2 mini by tweaking it for 18 months) to something like a kayfun or rda. so far, after 3 days, and 2 days of the kayfun not working, the kayfuns instantly jumped ahead of my rda attempts. but the rdas are a lot more fun with the clouds etc. but thirsty! god, I thought I was vaping a lot using around 40ml a day on a protank 2 mini, 3 days of experimenting with coils etc, iv used 150ml.

No wonder I have no money left to buy a mod so that every tank and rda has something to sit on.

 

[Iceni]

Regulated mods can increase the voltage past what the battery can supply. They do this by inducing a higher voltage, then using pulse width modulation to bring it back down to what you ask for.

I'm not sure exactly how DC induce a higher voltage, With AC it's done on coils on a metal block. 10V ac on 10 coils one side. 20 coils on the other and it will output 20V ac. Current is reduced by the same factor in ac, So 1a on the 10V side is 0.5a on the 20V side. It works the other way as well to reduce ac voltage. Hence those copper winding blocks you find in most household electronics.

DC uses a more complex system called DC boost. I believe it involves capacitors and transistors to amplify the the voltage.

 

[slinxy]

I got them from here, 3.50 they cost:

Spoiler

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291206020324?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Placed a spoiler as I don't know if linking a battery on ebay is considered competitor or not? not sure what the rules are of linking products about batteries here.


So I take it, you guys wouldn't touch these batteries with a barge pole?,

Yub.. Your right; not with a barge pole and certainly not sub ohming with it. With such a large mAh, I suspect they are non high drain, non chemical safe cobalt batteries. The stuff you get in work men's lights.

Yes, in the past people used to open laptop batteries to get the batteries required but in this day and age especially sub ohming there's really no need to put yourself or anyone else at risk. I don't sub ohm much, as I don't drip much but I still get and have batteries that are 'rated' for the job; just in case of that one time I forget to check batteries and use a RDA that is built at sub ohm.

If you have a look at the mainstream websites at the prices of batteries, they cost that much and people still buy them for a reason. You might think "oh those fools! I got four times the mAh for a quarter of the price!" But they offer a level of peace of mind.

Get yourself some authentic batteries from fasttech, if it doesn't say authentic in the title, don't touch them! They will take ages to come but can be half the price of websites.