***The Vapers Lounge*** 2.0

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bradUK said:
Hi guys,

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This is worlds away from those crappy ecig lites! Think I'm going to like this, looking forward to learning more!
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Noobs guide.. yes they are exceptions to everything.. but this is to keep it simple. :)

Different material has different resistances and different temperature points without getting all science it is important health and safety wise to make sure your on the right mode. The only exception is some stainless steel which can be used in SS mode for temp control and wattage mode.

most people vape round 4.2 volts which is a freshly changed battery, give or take. max voltage on a single battery should really be 5 volts, on certain tanks they will flood if you vape at too low, the minimum should be 3.6v, normally battery charge to stop flooding.

back in the days, you would build a coil to suit the way you vape and work out the wattage from there. build/use a 1 ohm or 0.5 ohm coil, to keep it simple.. start off low and then turn the power up slowly. till it matches your needs. (I tend to build a 0.8ohm for mtl and 0.4 for dtl, is so I can throw it on a mech).

for temp control.. set you mod at the middle power, unless the middle is more the 50 watts, in that case set it to 50 watts.. then start the temp control at 380 and then turn it up to match your vape needs... The burning point of dry cotton is 420, but cotton is never 100% dry in tank, so it's ok to place it higher.

All cotton has a breaking in period, if you start a new coil/build off at low point then start to turn it up... remember to prime all coils first, some don't need it but it's a good habit, this way it will last longer! if you can taste burnt and need to turn it down, it normally means the cotton/coil needs replacing.

Don't fill to the max, leave about 1/10... it is worth turning the tank upside and back to normal a few times, the air pocket should move and you should get bubbles, if you don't you will have an air lock/steal and will have wicking issues, open the tank and reclose then try turning it again...

learn battery safety!
Use good batteries.. on a wattage mod, look at the max amp draw on the chip that it has.. if it's an unknown chip, work it out using ohms law, with the minimal coil it can fire, at the maximum wattage or max wattage / 2.5 is a rough guide.

learn ohms law!
Quick maths work out...
Voltage / Res = Amp
Amp * Voltage = Wattage..
 
I've found something that I think is going to replace Red Astaire as my ADV. It's another T-Juice flavour called T-Clara and is like Red but without the aniseed and with a little more freshness. It's very fruity and is a 'shake n vape'. Absolutely lovely. Pity it's clear.

Also ordered some tips for my Aromamizers from Bigs Tips. They are a custom order and fit over the nipple top. Looking forward to getting them but there's a bit of a wait - as with all things custom made.
 
Frozennova said:
I need to have another go at building the MCR303, it would be fine for 5-6 hits then started to go dry, that 200sf mesh single straw with 5 wraps of 30awg @ 0.6.

My main struggle seems to be getting hot spots on the top wrap next to the POS post, I think I need a 1 or 1.5mm top cap as well as the 2mm is actually too airy
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personally I think your building too low.. 5 wraps of 30awg around a 3mm ID would normally give you 1.6, so it seems like its shorting somewhere. The mcr303 is a pain to build on.. are you using the drill bit method? the mesh shouldn't affect your ohms that much.. I aim for a 0.8 with 5 wraps of 27awg.

check the res of the coil without the mesh..

really burn the hell out of the mesh, with 200sf don't preburn it.. wrap it around the syringe if you didn't get a build pole... uses your fingers and roll it in one direction only till it's tight.. then take it off and dry burn the hell out of it, till its black, then pop it back on the syringe to re-force the gap. take it off again, cover it in juice and burn till all the juice is off it and repeat 4/5 times! then pop the wick in the coil you have already made.. you should need to tap it in and the coil should hold the mesh in place with 2/3 mm from the bottom deck. the ohms of the coil should only change by +/-0.2

I'm not mesh expert, but I have the two johns and paul on tap.. lol

The key is to burn the mesh.. if it's not burnt correctly you will get hot spots on the mesh or/and shorting.... it will take a tank or two for the coil to settle, dryburn it after the each of the first two tanks are empty, don't flush it with cold water.
 
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slinxy said:
personally I think your building too low.. 5 wraps of 30awg around a 3mm ID would normally give you 1.6, so it seems like its shorting somewhere. The mcr303 is a pain to build on.. are you using the drill bit method? the mesh shouldn't affect your ohms that much.. I aim for a 0.8 with 5 wraps of 27awg.

check the res of the coil without the mesh..

really burn the hell out of the mesh, with 200sf don't preburn it.. wrap it around the syringe if you didn't get a build pole... uses your fingers and roll it in one direction only till it's tight.. then take it off and dry burn the hell out of it, till its black, then pop it back on the syringe to re-force the gap. take it off again, cover it in juice and burn till all the juice is off it and repeat 4/5 times! then pop the wick in the coil you have already made.. you should need to tap it in and the coil should hold the mesh in place with 2/3 mm from the bottom deck. the ohms of the coil should only change by +/-0.2

I'm not mesh expert, but I have the two johns and paul on tap.. lol

The key is to burn the mesh.. if it's not burnt correctly you will get hot spots on the mesh or/and shorting.... it will take a tank or two for the coil to settle, dryburn it after the each of the first two tanks are empty, don't flush it with cold water.
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Was 1.2ohms not 0.6. MCR is at home and I'm out for the night (Coil calc was set to dual) could was wrapped around a 2mm bit and mesh I used a 0.5mm drill bit to roll around then gently rolled between my fingers until it would fit in the coil with slight resistance.


Then worked the mesh up and down twisting and dry firing to get rid of any shorts/hot spots. I didn't reforce the gap though.

I'll try again using your method with some 27gauge when I have a couple of hours patience to spare
 
slinxy said:
The last time I built my nextgen was 4 months ago.. even today when I dropped it and cracked the glass.. I just took it a part and cleaned it in a sonic cleaner then put on the metal tank till my glass replacement comes... no need to wick coil or rewick.. and the tank has been in daily use for the past 4 months.. mesh builds last months, if not years. :)

it's cleaner taste and flavour will last longer than on cotton builds even when it's junked up, normally it's a dry burn then it works again..

There are some very troublesome gennies out, but the modern new ones are great.. nextgen/nextiny, origennie and in'ax, are the ones imho to look out for.. I have the first two and the third should be with me tomorrow, small/big air.. mtl/dtl.. they will do it all. It is a warmer vape thou, vaping some of the bottom coil cotton tanks now feel like sucking on a mint.. lol
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Wow, fair enough thats a pretty decent lifespan, some juices and my cotton lasts a few days if that, normally around a week.

Might look into it at some point, cleaning by dry burn does sound a tempting proposition.

Guess the holy grail would be to find a non conductive cotton esque material that doesnt give you cancer and doesnt burn.

Vaping is at that interesting stage of a technology where we havent found the "one solution" that works the best yet so everyone's trying everything to see what works.
 
Sod all shipped to me from steam crave :(

Just seen a post on reddit, geek vape are to release a 25mm Griffin, likely ~14th of March, comes with a single coil option - similar to the ud style plug adapter.
 
Frozennova said:
Crius, bellus, Griffin, Aromamizer and VCMT in no particular order as I haven't bothered trying them all as I prefer I tigher DTL draw
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The Griffin looks nice and the Crius,

http://www.geekvape.com/project/griffin-2/

What wire and cotton would you buy to go with something like this?

pgi947 said:
Sod all shipped to me from steam crave :(

Just seen a post on reddit, geek vape are to release a 25mm Griffin, likely ~14th of March, comes with a single coil option - similar to the ud style plug adapter.
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This? http://www.geekvape.com/project/griffin-rta-25/
 
Griffin is a great tank but I prefer the OBS Crius TBH. Yes, the Griffin is easier to build on but I think the Crius gives slightly better flavour and I prefer the fill method.
 
Hi all - time to drag myself out of 2014 and get some new kit!
Currently still using my trusty old provari mini / kayfun lite combo which has served me well for the past 2 years but the one thing that kind of bothers me about it is how hard it is to try out new flavours without re-coiling/wicking every time (plus its a bit of an arse to fill).
I've heard that drippers are a good thing to use if you like to try different flavoured juice regularly so I'm wondering where is a good place to start? Any pointers gratefully recieved :)
 
Hi Guys,

Where would you all recommend getting liquids from?

I have been using Mr Good Vape liquids and Cosmic fog stuff recently but the shop I am buying from seems quite expensive(local shop)

Thanks
 
Rilot said:
Cool. Nothing for me yet.
I did order a bunch of stuff though so I bet they're holding to ship everything at once.
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Are you part of the steam crave fan page on FB? You should get involved!

Maggie Lou, one of the steamcrave reps updates about the products in there. One of the most recent updates was that they have made a last minute design change on the supreme meaning it's being delayed until the 14th to ship (removes an alleged whistle the old airflow design for it had, it looks cool though).
 
Rimsy said:
I've heard that drippers are a good thing to use if you like to try different flavoured juice regularly so I'm wondering where is a good place to start? Any pointers gratefully recieved :)
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I just started this myself and am using the Wotofo Sapor.
Everyone says it's a good first dripper while still having a lot of useful features and accessories... and I'm inclined to agree!

Costs £20, plus a few squid for the wire and cotton.

-Gamble- said:
Where would you all recommend getting liquids from?
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Local places are always pricey as they have physical overheads, although I like going to mine for a hangout and chat anyway.
I have used RawVapes, Creme de Vape and VapeMail.
I was considering AttyJuice, e-juicestore, Jwell, Vapeclub and there's a load of other links on my home PC.
Hodge's Homebrew sounds good.

But there are so many at the minute and I'm always on the lookout for both decent juices and decent prices. Generally the higher the quantity you buy, the cheaper it gets - 30ml is often less than twice the price of 10ml, for example. The trick is to find something you will happily vape 30ml of to begin with.
 
Fired up my aspire cleito, using the 0.5 ohm coil. 40W seems about right for my 70/30 VG/PG Big Mamas Milk (from Rejuiced - nice flavour). It's nice and smooth. Yet to see how quickly it uses up the juice. However, it gets SO hot! I think I may have to use the rubber sleeve, as chain vaping could get dangerous.

Waiting patiently for my fasttech order for the Joyetech Cuboid and Wotofo Sapor. It's only been about 3 days :) For some reason, reading through this thread, I want to buy the RX200 also. I'm probably never going to vape above 60/70W, so seems pointless buying all of these 100+ W mods.
 
You usually have to aim to the 100w+ mods to get the battery life. My rx200 with 3 2500mah he4's at 70-80w will do me 2-3 days easy.
 
ttaskmaster said:
I just started this myself and am using the Wotofo Sapor.
Everyone says it's a good first dripper while still having a lot of useful features and accessories... and I'm inclined to agree!

Costs £20, plus a few squid for the wire and cotton.
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Great - will check it out. thanks
 
Am I right in saying that all I would need to buy to make 0% juice is VG and the flavourings?

Looking on Flavour Art it all gets a bit confusing for 0%
 
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