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V_R said:
Not sure tbh. Like I said last time I used a protank they were still measly Protank 2's with single coil heads!

http://www.discountvapers.com/kanger-protank-3-aerotank-t3d-evod-2-dual-coils-5-pack-2-0ohms/

The pics on that page suggest the longer stem is the now one?
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I have the Aerotank Mini and the EVOD glass, they both use the long stem ones.

So many coils now it's getting ridiculous. I make sure to buy the coils with the visible wick. The ones that came as standard with the mini aero tank and EVOD glass has the wick hidden inside and they were beyond useless.

http://www.discountvapers.com/kanger-dual-coil-atomizer-heads-enclosed-wick-1-0ohms-read-warning/
 
Yeah, it looks like the PT3 heads. But the PT3 is backward compatible with normal (read : old) PT heads, which is why the older style you had before worked fine.

As for the "set the volts and adjust the watts" comment earlier, that is a lack of understanding of how the device works.

When you adjust the watts, that is reading the resistance of the coil, then applying a voltage to get the power (watts) you have selected. So you either adjust one or the other, volts or watts. Not both, as they both do essentially the same thing. It's just that watts is the measure of what you are actually getting with battery and resistance taken into account, and volts is just a straight voltage applied to the coil, regardless of the coil resistance.

What you have to do with the juice, is find a ratio that works for you. PG and nicotine both create throat hit, so if you up them both at the same time, it might be no good. If you are happy with your nicotine content, then leave that alone, and up the PG in the juice. Try a 50/50 and see how that works (PG always comes first). If the throat hit is too strong, then drop it to 30/70 or something. Many standard bought liquids will be 70/30 or 80/20 for reference.
 
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xs2man said:
Yeah, it looks like the PT3 heads. But the PT3 is backward compatible with normal (read : old) PT heads, which is why the older style you had before worked fine.

As for the "set the volts and adjust the watts" comment earlier, that is a lack of understanding of how the device works.

When you adjust the watts, that is reading the resistance of the coil, then applying a voltage to get the power (watts) you have selected. So you either adjust one or the other, volts or watts. Not both, as they both do essentially the same thing. It's just that watts is the measure of what you are actually getting with battery and resistance taken into account, and volts is just a straight voltage applied to the coil, regardless of the coil resistance.
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I didn't advise him to tinker with both, I advised to leave the volts at 3.3 then just tinker with the wattage.

edit: but! I had no idea that VV/VW devices would automatically set the voltage based on the watts! live and learn.
 
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V_R said:
'Tinkering with the wattage' WILL adjust the volts. Thats kinda the point lol.
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I had absolutely no idea! hah

I've got a variable wattage only device and for the last month I've been thinking "Jesus, I wish I could adjust the volts on this too!"

And similarly on the VV only battery I have I've been hankering for a wattage setting...doh
 
Cuchulain said:
I had absolutely no idea! hah

I've got a variable wattage only device and for the last month I've been thinking "Jesus, I wish I could adjust the volts on this too!"

And similarly on the VV only battery I have I've been hankering for a wattage setting...doh
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Watch that vid from my edit. :)

Tommy: No worries chap, its certainly not going to go to waste here. :D
 
In VV mode changing the voltage changes the voltage. :)

In VW mode changing the wattage adjust the voltage in relation to the attys resistance.

I believe its something to do with Ohms Law. :D


Have a play with this... Will give you an idea. :)

http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.asp
 
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Think I'm abandoning the 26650 idea and going down the route of either 2x18650 or 1x18650. I have spied a really nice enclosure but it is cut for a DNA board. How easy would it be to modify it for an SX350 board?
 
Vape Mail!

55073C7E-34B7-49DC-B7AD-ABEB0C9DF0BC_zpspzsc9eqs.jpg


Just the mod, Kayfun & Snake Oil purchased separately. I had the KFL+ on a MVP2, but it looked a tad top heavy with the sticky up connection where as this one is recessed and looks more balanced. Happy with it so far for the 10mins Ive had it :]
 
Jaffa_Far said:
Be careful with that Snake Oil!!! I've had to pester Lee Adler for a new Rose Stumpy window as I forgot that Snake Oil is a tank cracker :(
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Ya, Ive been using Snake Oil for a while now, love the stuff, which reminds me, I need to get some more as the next posting cycle is the 13th. The plastic section of the KFL seems to be fine with the oil, so far anyway, is it susceptible to cracking with these types of juice, or its it made from different stuff?
 
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