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Those of you with OcUK OEM 2700K Official OC Results thread!!

That why I use my Corsair 8Gb at 1333MHz @ 1.50v stock default voltage! And it ease get to 5GHz but if I use other Corsair 8Gb at 1600 @ 1.50v and it refuse to boot 5GHz and had to rise 1.65v to get boot into 5GHz.
 
That is quite strange zoomee! Have to test it myself to check if the RAM is not a limiting factor for a stable 5GHz! Ive got a 1866 1.5V modules but maybe it simply doesnt like the speed!
 
1866 maybe a factor - but 1600 should be ok. For me though its the fact I need 1.65v to run anything above 1333 (My stick will do 1333 @ 1.5v) :(

Hence why I'm trying to swap them on the members market! 1866 stuff is the same price as 1600 C8 1.5v stuff these days.

Remember the IMC's are only rated for 1333 on the Sandybridge CPU's - anything else is overclocking.
 
Can't decide between an i7 2700K and an i5 2500k.
Do I really need a 2700K for gaming and a bit of video encoding/converting?
I can't really justify it, except that I'm sorta getting swept along with this thread.

I'm also planning to go to IB once it's out. I can't imagine either chip is going retain it's value very well, unless IB are more expensive than SB currently is (which is possible if the only competition is coming from AMD).
 
GoogalyMoogaly said:
Can't decide between an i7 2700K and an i5 2500k.
Do I really need a 2700K for gaming and a bit of video encoding/converting?
I can't really justify it, except that I'm sorta getting swept along with this thread.
I was tempted too, i5 2500K is more than good enough for gaming, you should be able to clock it to 4.5GHz no problem around 1.35v or less, some to 4.8GHz if you get lucky.

If you want to spend around £96 on the i7 2700k go for it, you do get Battlefield 3, but if you have the extra £96 spare I would put it towards a better graphics card if you do gaming quite a lot.
 
Got tempted myself when heard how nicely these 2700K clock to 5GHz but if you want to swap for IB within 1 year there I cant juustify the extra cost even though I would use the extra HT punch it gives for my photo work. I real tests it was only within 5-10% better, and that was like a second or two in the worst case scenario for what mattered to me so no point.
Id love to have it purely for the Witcher 2 on uber settings, but judging by how things are going with my time I'd probably get the 2nd 6950 by then so it wont be a huge problem :D even with current setup it wont be a problem lol
 
Aurhinius
jbazdz
zoomee

Thanks guys for explaining about the thermalright silver arrow V corsair H100 :)

Seems to me then from what you are saying that there really isnt much of a difference as in temps then, the SA looks and sounds to me like it will be very bulcky, but I have plenty of room on the top on HAF 932 case for a corsair H100, so I think I might go with that, still not made my mind up though, its when people keep mentioning other devices that your mind starts to get a little confused, lol.

Now I see you all saying that 5G'z wont be achievable with certain ram which makes it all the more confusing now, lol.

Its been 3 years since my last build, I intend to keep my HAF 932 case (with magnetic mesh filters) if I possibly can, it has all its default fans in place.

And, I'm looking at a budget of around about £550 tops for a mobo, 2700k cpu, cooling (maybe the H100 ?) and Ram, and be able to get up to 5G'z and at pretty nice temps.

So any Ideas on what you think I should buy for that kind of money I would be greatfull to hear, thanks ?

Ohh, and If I was mounting the H100 cooler in the top of the HAF 932 would it be better to have it push or pull air (suck or blow in or out the radiator), remember the case has all its default fans and all pointing the default way. thanks again guys :)
 
maximus iv extreme-z £315
i2700k £275
silverarrow £55
ram?
over budget :)

thanks matey :)

theres some kits that I have been looking at that even come pre-clocked that are not as expensive as that, but needless to say, the components might not be just as good, but I should have said that I am not in it for the very very high top notch stuff, just the stuff that will do the job but maybe not just with the mega high pricetag, lol, I thought £550 was a lot to be spending, lol, but I know in this game that the world is your oyster if you have enough ££££'s, unfortunately I only have about £550 though, I was also looking to target maybe december or january thinking that the prices may come down, but again I am fully well aware that isnt always the case with hardware, lol.

Thanks for your input though mate, thats the whole point in me asking so that I can get some feedback, thank you :)
 
I was going well ott with the motherboard :)

you can easily knock £100+ off it and still end up with a easy? 4.8ghz, 5ghz will be a bit more difficult and dependent on the motherboard.
 
I was going well ott with the motherboard :)

you can easily knock £100+ off it and still end up with a easy? 4.8ghz, 5ghz will be a bit more difficult and dependent on the motherboard.

I don't know why you'd want the Z68 Maximus anyway. People have had nothing but problems with the Z68 version, and the P67 version could've been had for £235 on the last TWO on OcUK.
 
If I were you I would go for Z68 GD65 G3 (20% vat back, great price atm), 2700k, either H100 or Silver Arrow and some 8GB 1600MHz Ram. It will all do the job great and wont break the bank.
If you have a spare gfx (so you dont need to use CPU gfx in an emergency) and dont need extra feature of Z68 platform stick to P67. As long as they are Gen3 boards you will be able to later upgrade to IB and PCIE3 gfx :)
 
My new PC arrived yesterday (Propper water cooled 2700k @ 5Ghz) although not very happy with it considering how much I spent (£1.5k excluding the GFX card as OcUK could not supply a HD6990 for a reasonable price):

a.) Water has leaked all over the place as there were no clamps on the barb fittings (now resolved with cable ties).
b.) No overclock was set and nor was there a saved profile (paid for 5Ghz overclock).
c.) Velcro pad for pump base had been stuck in a stupid place meaning only about 1/5th of the pump is stuck to anything - how's that going to absorb vibration?
d.) Spent all night trying to figure why I was getting such shocking temps when clocking the i7 myself only to find that OcUK have connected the 3x 120mm GT radiator fans up to one of those stupid Akasa cables meaning 2 of the fans were running at only 5v and thus shifting bugger all air!
e.) My BF3 game did not come with the system and nor did any instructions or any way for me to verify that the proper liquid was put in the machine (might be regular water for all I know!).
f.) Had a thread in with CS since yesterday afternoon querying some of these issues and have yet to receive any response
g.) Backplate for waterblock was loose

Considering I paid a premium of around £200 ex VAT ontop of the component price (which was about £70-100 more expensive then what I could have sources else where) for the build/configuration I'm not particularly pleased!

Anyhow, having now corrected all of these issues myself I'm now 2-3hrs in on Prime @ 5Ghz with temps sitting at 75degC max using 1.410v in BIOS and 1.4v being shown in CPU-Z.

Am hoping to buy another 3x GT fans to setup the rad in push/pull - reckon it'll drop the temps much?
 
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Anyhow, having now corrected all of these issues myself I'm now 2-3hrs in on Prime @ 5Ghz with temps sitting at 75degC max using 1.410v in BIOS and 1.4v being shown in CPU-Z.

Is the CPU the only component in the loop or is the graphics card in the loop as well?

75°C doesn't seem an amazing temperature if it's a CPU only loop.
 
That's CPU only and on a 360 rad with 3x 1450rpm GT's, I was expecting better to be honest.

Its better than mine mate!!!

i'm the same with you on volts and overclock - 5Ghz @ 1.41v - but I can't keep temps below 80Degrees C when running IBT!. Prime is about the same as you if not higher as my mainboard overvolts slightly :(

I have one Supreme HF on the CPU running through a Thermochill 120.3 with 3 x Scythe GT 1450's - surprised I've found someone with the same as me!

Push/Pull won't make much difference to be honest dude - 2 or 3 degrees C for all the extra noise and power used aint worth it (trust me - been there done that)
 
My new PC arrived yesterday (Propper water cooled 2700k @ 5Ghz) although not very happy with it considering how much I spent (£1.5k excluding the GFX card as OcUK could not supply a HD6990 for a reasonable price):

a.) Water has leaked all over the place as there were no clamps on the barb fittings (now resolved with cable ties).
b.) No overclock was set and nor was there a saved profile (paid for 5Ghz overclock).
c.) Velcro pad for pump base had been stuck in a stupid place meaning only about 1/5th of the pump is stuck to anything - how's that going to absorb vibration?
d.) Spent all night trying to figure why I was getting such shocking temps when clocking the i7 myself only to find that OcUK have connected the 3x 120mm GT radiator fans up to one of those stupid Akasa cables meaning 2 of the fans were running at only 5v and thus shifting bugger all air!
e.) My BF3 game did not come with the system and nor did any instructions or any way for me to verify that the proper liquid was put in the machine (might be regular water for all I know!).
f.) Had a thread in with CS since yesterday afternoon querying some of these issues and have yet to receive any response

Considering I paid a premium of around £200 ex VAT ontop of the component price (which was about £70-100 more expensive then what I could have sources else where) for the build/configuration I'm not particularly pleased!

Anyhow, having now corrected all of these issues myself I'm now 2-3hrs in on Prime @ 5Ghz with temps sitting at 75degC max using 1.410v in BIOS and 1.4v being shown in CPU-Z.

Am hoping to buy another 3x GT fans to setup the rad in push/pull - reckon it'll drop the temps much?

This is disgraceful, I cannot understand why ocuk not checking everything before final inspection before shipping. It so unfair for you to go through with all the setting yourself and sorted it out!
 
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Still not heard from OcUK support but I've scuppered across another issue and that was that the back plate was loose - only found out because there was a rattle when typing on my keyboard (vibration)

Had to remove the whole motherboard to sort it as the stupid cut out in the HAF-X only exposes the right left hand part of the socket :(

Tightening up the loose back plate has improved temps by a further 4-5degC!
 
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