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Still not heard from OcUK support but I've scuppered across another issue and that was that the back plate was loose - only found out because there was a rattle when typing on my keyboard (vibration)
Had to remove the whole motherboard to sort it as the stupid cut out in the HAF-X only exposes the right left hand part of the socket
Tightening up the loose back plate has improved temps by a further 4-5degC!
I bought a XSPC EX 360 and 240 for my new build. 2700k + GTX 480 SLI. I'm really starting to wonder whether or not it'll be enough to keep my temps in check. I'm thinking similar voltages to above and a overclock on both cards
I do however have space for another 120 rad in the back of my case.. I was going to order another rad initially but thought the 240 would be more than enough
To give OcUK their due, Bicepo has now looked into my issue and I have been compensated nicely so I'm happy again now, especially as I look pretty solid at 5Ghz now - here's to hoping I can break sub 70degC barrier when my new fans come
and congrats
Ah crap
I have a 360 rad is for the 2 GPU's and I have the 240 for the CPU - I was hoping this would be enough.. Have made a post in the Watercooling forum.
Sorry don't want to go off topic..
If I were you I would go for Z68 GD65 G3 (20% vat back, great price atm), 2700k, either H100 or Silver Arrow and some 8GB 1600MHz Ram. It will all do the job great and wont break the bank.
If you have a spare gfx (so you dont need to use CPU gfx in an emergency) and dont need extra feature of Z68 platform stick to P67. As long as they are Gen3 boards you will be able to later upgrade to IB and PCIE3 gfx
Thanks for that mate
(and sorry for butting in again on the thread here)
I see that board your quoting is an MSi, hmmm, well, since my last build which I still currently have here, (see my profile "about me"), I have an MSi x58 platinum, it was a nightmare from the start, instantly noticed the northbridge copper heatsink wasnt firmly enought fitted with thise daft push in pins, had to get proper nuts and bolts to bolt it down, and then after that the so called "simple to overclock" board wasnt so simple, well at the time from someone who was a little novice at clocking it was very very difficult, but in the end it was a good learning curve I guess, lol, thats about the only good thing I have to say about MSi and I swore blind that next time I never touch MSi for anything, very poor quality, very difficult overclocking for someone just starting out and very poor customer service based in china or something like that, was not happy at all
And @ Axer, thats a horror story mate, one that I have heard a couple of times with liquid cooling and has made me a bit scared to be honest thinking about the liquid cooling side of things, hmmmm, at the same time though, I'm thinking, surely out of the hundreds of thousands of these things sold then there must only be one in every so many 1000 that leak ? otherwise the companies would not have any buyers, its making me think twice and sweat about the corsair H100 now (i know it isnt the H100 you bought, but still), lol, and the silver arrow as far as I'm reading isnt ideal either as it will probably hog 1 or 2 Ram bays, hmmm, that doesnt sound too good either.
Another thing I think about is exactly how difficult is it to keep these coolers clean, silver arrow V H100 ? I know all too well that extra fans, radiators and pipes etc etc will cause more dust/dirt to get lodged in them, even with decent filters, but I will start a fresh thread about this and ask about the cleaning.
So I'm still left kind of mind boggled with what road to go down for about £550, lol, 2700k cpu, cooler, Ram and mobo.?
Can get it now for £257.98 Inc VAT with the voucher code off the Vortez website.fowler002 said:
I'm using the 1.35v Arctic, they run at 1.5v out of the box but when you apply XMP profile OR use manual settings can run them at 1.35v.scotslad said:thanks mate
So its better to have the 1.5v ram than the 1.35v ram for getting it up to 1600G'z ? or will that 1.35v ram run at 1600G'z out the box so to speak
(you know, I mean the real speeds, as in the speeds posted on windows boot screen 
Have a look at this old ram I am currently using and as you can see ive been running this @ 1.5v for nearly 3 years now, I could never get it to 1600G'z though as I'm pretty sure my overclock on motherboard just wasnt wanting to play the game, so I think I have it at something like 1420G'z.
Tell me this, would I be better just to throw this old ram in rather than buy the newer stuff or am i going to be missing out on something ?
I would love to see it at 1600G'z with just like plug n play and no tweaking
p.s
can someone please take two secs to explain to me again as my brain is rusty, from the cpu-z screenshots, how do ya tell what speed a persons ram is running at, for example, look at mines and how do you tell what speed it is running at, thanks ?
edit : added this screenshot too >>>>
Left my PC running Prime95 overnight, max reported temp was 73degC with 1.415v, going to work on reducing that if I can and still have the addition 3 fans to add for push/pull
