Type R and VTEC owners

Lots of pics of fitting it you haven't already fitted it and yours in an 06+ :D

Need to make a trip to my parents to grab my old headunit and get it fitted.
You got the lead for the car controls?

Yeah I've got all the cables, about to go and fit it all now.

Also is 28mpg normal for the F20? Sat on the motorway at 80 and a fair bit of hooning around.

Pretty sure I could get 35mpg if sat at 70 and no VTEC.
 
Fitted my head unit today. I'm a bit annoyed with Halfords as they told me they ordered in all the cables I'd need, but I'm missing a PC99KEN - this basically connects onto the stalk loom which I have and allows it to control the unit from the right of the wheel. No biggie, I've just ordered one so I'll get it fitted once it arrives.

I went for the Kenwood BT73DAB, this gives me two USB ports, iPod compatibility, Bluetooth integrated, DAB (antenna included) and the usual radio/CD. I paid £180 for it from Caraudiosecurity and about £30 in total for all the leads.

I didn't bother drilling any holes, I had intended to put it in the glove box but that meant drilling and a lot of cable routing. So I opted for the console next to the hand break. With Des's help, we managed to get the iPod cable squeezed into there and fed it up to the unit. Very happy with the unit, voice quality is good, it searches the iPod fast and the SQ is much improved.

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How do you find overtaking and building speed once rolling? S2000 owners.

Short version: great, as long as revs are high.

Coming from a torquey ST220 you won't like it at first. 40 mph overtakes for me have gone from 3rd/4th/5th in the Evo to 2nd in the S2000 if it's a short gap, you really have to work the engine to get the most out of it. It can be quite lethargic between 3k-5k. But as Simon has said, once the revs are up and you learn to use the engine as it's meant to then it becomes easy.
 
Need to make a servicing decision soon.

When I got the car I was adamant that I'd keep the Honda history as it's only had 1 owner before me and always been serviced at the same Dealer.

It's due it's 72.5k service, so plugs, valve clearances, usual oil&filter and I think transmission fluid too - £500 or thereabouts from a Dealer. The indy I've used before, who is excellent and well known for Honda is coming in at £340 for the same.

My past experiences with Honda mean I really don't trust them to do even the basics, plus with the change I'd potentially get the indy to swap over the fuel filter (which looks a complete pain in the ****) ....then again is it worth saving £150 or so to break the otherwise perfect manufacturer history? It's had the roof done under warranty etc so I wouldn't need to worry about that.

I just know that if I was looking for one, full Honda history would make a car stand out, even if I wouldn't necessarily pay much more for it
FN2? My S2000 had that service with the previous owner, was just under £700 from Honda.
 
Cheers. I better wait and see if my adjusting bolts are seized or not before deciding on altering suspension. I'm booked in two weeks today, I'll more than likely have them off you if the news is good. The car had a geo setup as part of a service so I'm assuming all is well.
 
Also on the subject what is the cheapest way (ie don't waste money but don't take shortcuts) of getting to 250/260hp N/A? I want to buy everything once and not have any hassle with manifolds cracking etc, but I don't want to go and spend £1500 on a "Toda" one because it is a "Toda one", ie paying for the name.

DC manifold, DC mid pipe, OEM backbox, AEM CAI and Kpro. That should get you 240+ bhp.
 
If you have 8k to spend I'd be looking at a DC5 over an EP3 if I wanted something for a track car, all the good bits from the JDM EP3 plus better brakes, more power, nicer seats and an even racier looking car.

If I go back 2 years or so in my car history, I bought an S2000 rather than a DC5 and promptly crashed it, every time I see a nice Teg now I wonder what I'd have now if I'd got one instead of the S2000. Probably still be driving a nicely modded DC5...I still kind of want one.

That EP3 is a JDM, so the same power as the DC5.

But the DC5 has hydraulic steering versus electric of the EP3 which people often forget, and it's the one single thing that sets them apart when you're driving it IMO.
 
I can't get my legs under/around the steering wheel in a DC5. I went for a test drive in one at Torque GT and couldn't even push the clutch in.

I have the same problem in 8p A3's, the struts from the dash get in the way of the clutch, hence having an S-Tronic one.

EP3 dasboard centre slopes away to the passenger side leaving plenty of room.

What do we think of this? http://www.pistonheads.com/classifi...-ep3-only-50k-miles/1711676?isexperiment=true

Seriously, I'd get the JDM posted above. More than likely to hold its value compared to other EP3's, has the LSD which you'd want anyway for track use, has slightly more power and a better interior.
 
Too many tools on the DC5 forum now, thinking they have some kind of supercar. It's a Honda coupe, get over yourselves.

AFAIK the EP3 didn't have 'pack' options, I thought it was the DC5 only?
 
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