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Unigine Heaven 4 benchmark

Niiice :) Truly king of the multi-GPU tables now.

I see that you haven't put the water chiller into your loop yet? Still waiting for cooler weather?


Just so you know, there is no way for the temps to drop sub-ambient, unless the chiller is capable of handling the entire wattage of your loop... The closer you get to ambient, the less effective the radiator will be. The loop will find a new equilibrium temperature, which will be closer to ambient, but will not be below it unless the chiller can handle the entire heat output from the loop. At this point you would be better off removing the rad from the loop, as it will only serve to heat the water.

Apologies if you already knew all the above... What is the heat removal rating for your chiller?

Thanks.:D:)

It is a Hailea HC-500A

I don't think it will be able to replace the rads as my rig produces way too much heat for that. What I want to do is use it to work with the rads to knock a few degrees of the temps. I plan to fit it after the last rad and before the CPU as it is the CPU that needs the most help. If I can knock 5 or more degrees off the temps on a cold day it will be worth it, I know using the rads as well I will be limited to above ambient temps. The other thing I want to avoid is condensation, I don't want to use insulation on the parts so going too low on the temps is a no no.

Having said all that though, for a single card and CPU the chiller will be able to cope on it's own so the option is there to turn off the fans on the rads and do some serious benching on a single card.:D
 
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Hmm - well I'd be very interested to see the results when you put it in the loop.

Thermodynamically speaking, the chiller will effectively "cancel out" some of the heat generation in the loop. So, if the components in your loop produce X Watts, and the chiller is rated to remove Y Watts, then the water temperature in the loop will be the same as if you were running (X-Y) Watts without the chiller. So if your chiller can remove 250W (say), the water temperature in your quad-GPU setup will be very similar to what you get with a tri-GPU setup minus the chiller.



Hmm... seems that chiller is rated to remove up to 780W(!!!), though that might change somewhat depending on flowrate. So, under load, your performance with a quad-Titan system would be pretty similar to what you get with a single-Titan in the same loop - minus the chiller.

The concern would come when you're not under load since you'll certainly be drawing less than 700W from the loop. The radiators would provide a buffer, acting to warm the water back towards ambient, but condensation could be a concern. If I were you, I'd be tempted to add the chiller, let it drop to one or two degrees below ambient, and then run the benchmarks. The volume of water will take a while to heat up, so you could essentially run benchmarks at ambient, or just below. When your water temps rise, just drop back to stock for a while until you reach your target temperature :)

Sod waiting for winter - just pick a relatively cool day, bench at night when the air temperature has dropped to 18 degrees or so, open a window, and get cracking :D
 
Hmm - well I'd be very interested to see the results when you put it in the loop.

Thermodynamically speaking, the chiller will effectively "cancel out" some of the heat generation in the loop. So, if the components in your loop produce X Watts, and the chiller is rated to remove Y Watts, then the water temperature in the loop will be the same as if you were running (X-Y) Watts without the chiller. So if your chiller can remove 250W (say), the water temperature in your quad-GPU setup will be very similar to what you get with a tri-GPU setup minus the chiller.



Hmm... seems that chiller is rated to remove up to 780W(!!!), though that might change somewhat depending on flowrate. So, under load, your performance with a quad-Titan system would be pretty similar to what you get with a single-Titan in the same loop - minus the chiller.

The concern would come when you're not under load since you'll certainly be drawing less than 700W from the loop. The radiators would provide a buffer, acting to warm the water back towards ambient, but condensation could be a concern. If I were you, I'd be tempted to add the chiller, let it drop to one or two degrees below ambient, and then run the benchmarks. The volume of water will take a while to heat up, so you could essentially run benchmarks at ambient, or just below. When your water temps rise, just drop back to stock for a while until you reach your target temperature :)

Sod waiting for winter - just pick a relatively cool day, bench at night when the air temperature has dropped to 18 degrees or so, open a window, and get cracking :D

I do have a problem maybe you could help with. When the chiller arrived there was a little bit of water at the bottom (probably what they used to test it with). Do you have any ideas how I can get it out, from the manual it says I must not turn the chiller upside down. The only way I can think of is to use the same type coolant I use in the loop to purge it out.

Thanks.
 
I do have a problem maybe you could help with. When the chiller arrived there was a little bit of water at the bottom (probably what they used to test it with). Do you have any ideas how I can get it out, from the manual it says I must not turn the chiller upside down. The only way I can think of is to use the same type coolant I use in the loop to purge it out.

Thanks.

Hmm... What you suggest seems like the most obvious way. Seems a bit of a waste of coolant though.


As bit of a low-tech alternative, have you tried connecting up some pipes and blowing hard to see if it will expel the water?! Depends how it's all connected up internally though I suppose. May do nothing at all.
 
Hmm... What you suggest seems like the most obvious way. Seems a bit of a waste of coolant though.


As bit of a low-tech alternative, have you tried connecting up some pipes and blowing hard to see if it will expel the water?! Depends how it's all connected up internally though I suppose. May do nothing at all.

The piping inside the chiller is quite large but if I lay it on it's side I may be able to shift it by connecting up some pipes and blowing.:)

Thanks
 
Kaap!!!

Did I see you say you could drop the stock voltage on the Matrix Platinums? If I drop the voltage in Gpu Tweak, say to 1.200v it still shows as running at 1.257v in GPU-Z.
 
Kaap!!!

Did I see you say you could drop the stock voltage on the Matrix Platinums? If I drop the voltage in Gpu Tweak, say to 1.200v it still shows as running at 1.257v in GPU-Z.

I don't think I have ever tried it, I have always been more interested in going the other way on the volts.

Is there an option to adjust the volts in CCC, I know you can use it to overclock a limited amount.

At the moment I don't have my HD 7970 rig connected up to check.

Edit thinking about it I am pretty sure I did undervolt my cards on one occasion but I can not remember what I used.
 
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I don't think I have ever tried it, I have always been more interested in going the other way on the volts.

Is there an option to adjust the volts in CCC, I know you can use it to overclock a limited amount.

At the moment I don't have my HD 7970 rig connected up to check.

Edit thinking about it I am pretty sure I did undervolt my cards on one occasion but I can not remember what I used.

Yes you can undervolt the card using the Gpu Tweak and apply...but soon as you put the card under load it's still running at 1.256v so ignoring the voltage that you set manually.
 
Upped cpu to 4.5ghz.



Gpu 1, 1267mhz core, 3506mhz memory

Gpu 2, 1228mhz core, 3506mhz memory.

Cpu, i7 3770k @4500mhz.

Think ive jumped a few places from my last run, cpu is barely stable at this speed as it's a bit volt hungry.
 
@ Kaap could you run same settings please :)


3930k @ 4.8

3 X Titans @ 968/1652

Monitor 2560x1600



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

PCI-E 3.0
Hyperthreading on

xs9f.jpg


j2mc.jpg
 
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