Soldato
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Well it's supposed to have fixed the problems of the V1, and it does have the full size base for TR4; though personally I wouldn't use a CLC unless it's made of copper.
Upgrade Threadripper cooler
- Thread starter cristouk
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The first ones sold to everyone were 'supposed to' work and not gunk up, but they definitely did.Well it's supposed to have fixed the problems of the V1, and it does have the full size base for TR4; though personally I wouldn't use a CLC unless it's made of copper.
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should be able to build yourself a mini custom loop cheaply these days. I've got one using a magicool 450 pump, rad and waterblock for about £100. a TR4 plate will cost more than my universal GPU block but for around £150 should be doable including tubing and coolant.
also ignore the whole CLC/AIO nonsense - It makes no difference to performance. I'm assuming the threadripper isn't overclocked with an H80i cooling it?
also ignore the whole CLC/AIO nonsense - It makes no difference to performance. I'm assuming the threadripper isn't overclocked with an H80i cooling it?
I'm not that experienced to build a custom loop.
It is - to 3.7ghz. The H80i keeps it just under 68 degrees when the ambient is mid/low but it suffers during the summer.
I've got two GTX 1080 gpus in the case and I've just turned the fans on to a continuous 50% (at default they would be off and kick in at about 50 degrees I think) and that's made a difference the case as a whole - particularly my Samsung EVO SSD
I'm not a gamer and the GPUs are for Davinci Resolve so they are not running hot at all.
As explained, the reasons for buying AIO instead of CLC are they are repairable, usually better built, can be service/coolant topped up as needed (biggest reason CLCs fail is pump failure, probably because of low coolant resulting in air entrapment in pump).
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except they don't generally need it. AIO's last for years assuming its run correctly. Being able to top up doesn't make any difference in reality.
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If you are happy with the AIO you are using then just go for one with a bigger rad. TBH putting a custom loop together isn't hard. look at the corsair 115i platinum
I disagree. Almost all CLC failures are pump and almost all of those are because of low coolant level. Even those that 'last for years' as you say would last much longer if coolant level could be topped up.
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Maybe a silly question, in a sealed unit where does the coolant go
permeates into the tubing but that really only happens when the coolant gets hot. Was more of a problem with older design AIO's.
What Ross said, but while the hotter system runs the more likely escapes, there is still loss even at lower temps. As for his claim "was only with older ..", well, it happens over time so the older the unit the more total loss and the more likely to see problems .. so how do we know it's only older units? We need a at least equal number of years of use on newer systems to know if it's still a problem or not.Maybe a silly question, in a sealed unit where does the coolant go
Solution is to get an AIO that is not a CLC .. as in is not a hemetically sealed unit. Get one that has threaded fittings and a fill plug. That way you can service it and add coolant, even change components if you ever want to.
There are a couple of 'B' grade Silent Loops availble for £99.99 and less:
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/b-gr...perior-liquid-cpu-cooler-240mm-bg-10g-bq.html
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/b-gr...perior-liquid-cpu-cooler-120mm-bg-107-bq.html
Aquacool have some too for about £75 on up:
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/search?sSearch=eisbaer
I have one of the be quiet! Silent Loop units that has been running for years now. I topped up coolant once, then changed coolant after a couple of years.
I have not used any of the Eisbaer unit, but have heard no complaints about them.
Let us know how you get on, be interesting to know how much of a difference you see
Update on the cooler:
I got the H155i Platinum and to be honest I'm not seeing the improvement I'd hoped for.
Temps are still hovering around 68c and for some heavy renders hitting 70. The longer the CPU is stressed it does start to go down slightly to around 66. Now summer is starting here and ambient temps are increasing I don't see that getting better.
I'm starting to think something miight be astray in my overclock settings, I'm overclocking to 3.7ghz and the CPU core voltage is set to 1.225.
But in Windows looking at CPUID HWMonitor CPU Vcore is 1.243 and goes to 1.26 under load. (The BIOS reports a CPU Core Voltage of 1.213v)
Is this something to do with the Load Line Calibration? It's set to Auto
It's a minefield of information on the net, but I read somewhere that Auto mode over volts the CPU.
I also read that playing around with LLC without really knowing what you're doing can send high voltage spikes that might damage your CPU - I'm definitely in that category.
Don't know if it's worth mentioning that my BIOS is quite old - (about 6 versions old, haven't updated it since I bought it)
Any advice greatly appreciated!
I got the H155i Platinum and to be honest I'm not seeing the improvement I'd hoped for.
Temps are still hovering around 68c and for some heavy renders hitting 70. The longer the CPU is stressed it does start to go down slightly to around 66. Now summer is starting here and ambient temps are increasing I don't see that getting better.
I'm starting to think something miight be astray in my overclock settings, I'm overclocking to 3.7ghz and the CPU core voltage is set to 1.225.
But in Windows looking at CPUID HWMonitor CPU Vcore is 1.243 and goes to 1.26 under load. (The BIOS reports a CPU Core Voltage of 1.213v)
Is this something to do with the Load Line Calibration? It's set to Auto
It's a minefield of information on the net, but I read somewhere that Auto mode over volts the CPU.
I also read that playing around with LLC without really knowing what you're doing can send high voltage spikes that might damage your CPU - I'm definitely in that category.
Don't know if it's worth mentioning that my BIOS is quite old - (about 6 versions old, haven't updated it since I bought it)
Any advice greatly appreciated!
Auto LLC will cause slight voltage deviations, too aggressive and the voltage rises, too weak and it droops.
To be fair, I don't see the worry with those temperatures, my 1920x was getting up to around 82 degrees using an original EK water block with 480 & 240mm radiators cooling it. I've since replaced that block with the newer redesigned version that actually has full die coverage which has dropped my peak temperatures to 70 degrees. These temperatures are a bit unrealistic as prime 95 small FFT seems to really cook this processor, encoding and other benchmarks are around 10 degrees lower. Another cause for the high temps is the overclock at 3.975GHz / 1.325V.
I've seen others with the noctua cooler and old asetek aio's getting better temperatures than I do using similar voltages so I do wonder if my cpu has some trouble dissipating heat from the dies through the IHS to the waterblock.
To be fair, I don't see the worry with those temperatures, my 1920x was getting up to around 82 degrees using an original EK water block with 480 & 240mm radiators cooling it. I've since replaced that block with the newer redesigned version that actually has full die coverage which has dropped my peak temperatures to 70 degrees. These temperatures are a bit unrealistic as prime 95 small FFT seems to really cook this processor, encoding and other benchmarks are around 10 degrees lower. Another cause for the high temps is the overclock at 3.975GHz / 1.325V.
I've seen others with the noctua cooler and old asetek aio's getting better temperatures than I do using similar voltages so I do wonder if my cpu has some trouble dissipating heat from the dies through the IHS to the waterblock.
i guess that was the tDie temp ,without the offset?
60 would be be a great temp to aim for as this machine is going to be rendering 24/7 - I see a few conflicting opnions which confuses the issue - some say 68 tDie (95 with the offset) is the max and throttling will set in and CPU lifespan is potentially reduced.
It would be great to get some more out of this CPU if poss, with current set up don't know if I could make it to 3.975GHz / 1.325V though
Quite a lot to be fair, it would never go over 60 degree's @5ghz. I saw spikes over 70, I removed the top glass panel and dust filter which helped. My case is a Corsair 570X and the front and top are designed as inlets which again didn't help.
I think your temps are ok though really and your fluid temps are really low. Mine go upto 37 degrees