Wall mounting and projector advice

I'm thinking of something visually epic and immersive.

Gravity springs to mind. Any suggestions?
 
Gravity is a bit lacking on the colours, but is a good showcase for black level tests.

Some that spring to mind for wow factor...

Avatar
Tron
The Avengers
Captain America the winter soldier
Pacific Rim
Enders Game
Edge Of Tomorrow.

Gaming..It's gotta be PC: Alien Isolation in the dark with sound cranked.
 
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So many suggestions!

Well I'll just have to watch them all won't I?! :p

Today is going to be a slow day in work :(
 
Cheers :) - certainly won't be rushing. I don't care if it takes a few evenings of getting it right. I'm not doing this a second time. It's going up once, correctly, and there is where it will stay :)

Obligatory photos and video to come of course :D
 
It's up!

XAU3a3V.jpg


Toggle bolts worked perfectly. :)

Pleas excuse me while I disappear and do an impression of a hermit! :D
 
Also if anyone can direct me to the thread for recommended settings etc, that'd be great :)

But my god...this is incredible.
 
Lethagized said:
Told ya. Told ya how great it would be. He he. Congrats man. Darker walls and black ceiling tile above the screen next then?
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Haha naa. I like my living room otherwise :p

The motorised screen is SO COOL

EDIT: The only thing I'm not liking is the noise of the projector. But I've only just noticed it after a couple of hours of going O M G
 
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Run it on low lamp settings mate. Not high altitude, and not bright mode. It's loads quieter then and the lamp lasts twice as long. Also turn off Image AI. Not sure if the HD30 has it. Found some settings for you to try HERE

You could also try an ND2 filter. I've got one from Hoya which is 52mm. I see you've got a Canon 5D, so i assume your heavily into your photography. You've likely already got a filter from your camera gear to try on the PJ. It improves black levels quite a lot on my HD20. Your PJ has a newer DLP chip in than mine which has better black levels anyway, but it never hurts to try.
 
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Thanks for the link and note about the High bulb setting. Tonight I'll have a play with the settings and see if I can improve the colours. Although Lucid was spot on, its pretty excellent out of the box.

Yes I've got an ND filter at home, will give that a go :) what a simple idea!
 
Be careful using someone else's settings. Especially the CMS values. These things don't transfer well.

Batch variance - HD30 - sample group of 9 projectors calibrated across an 8 month time span.
Calibrationvariance.png

Stuff that's generally safe to use are the presets for the picture processing.

Brightness, contrast, colour and tint are all governed by ambient conditions and their interaction with each other. Sharpness I found fairly benign at +3 or +4 on early models. This rose to +7 on later batches. By benign I mean specifically that the minor amount of edge enhancement at +4/+7 was preferable to the slight softening of the image at the 0 setting since the sharpening effect was confined to the highest frequency detail only. It's a judgement call weighing up the pros and cons.
 
Lethagized said:
Out of interest, what screen did you go with, and is it triggered off the PJ, or is it just a manual switch/remote that you press?
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http://www.sapphireav.com/Sapphire-Electric-Screen-Infra-Red-2037mm-x-1145_p_82.html this screen plus the trigger I bought it from Projectors.co.uk

And yes the screen goes up and down with the projector turning off and on :)

The trigger is one which connects to the power of the PJ, then a power cable goes into it, then it sends a wireless signal to a receiver which goes in the IR RJ11 connection your normal remote uses.

It clocks the change in voltage and controls the screen accordingly :)
 
I'd say so. The difference in performance is pretty remarkable.

Some stuff won't change. Black won't get blacker. Other stuff will change quite dramatically. If it's calibrated properly then it will get a lot quieter than how it is out of the box. Brightness will drop a little, but video contrast will appear to be higher. Bright and intense colours will really pop out.

Then there's the more subtle stuff: the first thing is that the picture seems easier to watch. That's from a combination of factors; better motion, more realistic colours, truer skin tones. Your mind isn't having to work as hard to tell you that this is the image of a real person, or those are buildings and trees. Everything is more natural so your mind relaxes in to accepting the picture as real.

Improvements in the colour fidelity and getting rid of the over-sharpening then allows the real picture detail to come through. You start to notice a much bigger colour palette and that means subtle differences in colour shades that were previously all blended together are now properly displayed. It creates a greater sense of image depth and individual items appear better defined from each other, so the picture looks to have more detail.

It generally takes about an hour to really start to pick out the differences. The next two or three days viewing are where you'll find yourself playing clips of movies you though you knew but now they look different. After that you'll look at other peoples TV images and wonder how they live with the picture. :D

If you're in Essex then have a word with Gordon Fraser at Convergent AV. He's one of the few people in the UK other than me who I'd trust to calibrate well.
 
Thanks for the recommendation Lucid. If you couldn't suggest someone I was going to start bribing you :D - I remember when I calibrated my monitors for my computers over the years, the difference it makes is staggering.

I'll get in touch with Gordon and get something arranged :)
 
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