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mightynimrod, what stops any air from floating up into the rad instead of the T line?
Watercooling in a Lian-Li PC60 or PC61
- Thread starter meths
- Start date
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Meths said:
Aye, but if you're removing the 3.5" cage its going to leave a hole at the front, the 2 FDD plates fix to that cage. What I did (as you can probably see from the pics) is cut the cage in half then reattached it, so I could put the plates back on leaving the case looking standard at the front.
My HDD is sat on a piece of foam at the bottom of the 5.25" cage, no vibration at all now.
And use Zerex or Water wetter in the water.
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SidewinderINC said:
Won't happen in a properly bled loop, a T-line is identical to a reservoir, it just holds less water.
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weescott said:
It is kinda. The PC60 in the picture is one of the very early ones.
Gold Black Ice Extreme with a gutted 120mm fan acting as a shroud for another.
The big black box thing is a BeCooling anodised aluminium res with a MaxiJet 1200 submersed inside.
The block is a BeCooling SlitEdge
The fan sitting (literally on the back of the graphics card) is a 7v 80mm cooling the Epox 8RDA+ northbridge and power regulator area.
Chip is a 1700+ DLT3C at 2400MHz with only 1.7v vCore.
Soldato
Here's my setup in a PC61,step downs required due to the use of an Aqua tube resevoir,couldn't locate any larger barbs for it than 10mm.
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Soldato
Whats the join between pump and rad?
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Tim said:
Looks like someone cut his tubes too short! Doh!
I think it's a tube joiner.
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Tim said:
Its a 1/2" to 3/8" step down due to the pump having larger bore inlet and outlet than the rest of the systems fittings,not ideal I know but due to the use of the aqua tube and the unavailabilty of 1/2" fittings for it I decided to use 3/8" hose to match the aqua tubes fittings and use a couple of step downs.
Yeah the tubes are a little short,was a bit low on the old Tygon at the time
it all needs redoing tbh without the stepdowns and a relocation of the pump.It does show the thread starter though that a large rad will fit into the PC60/61's with minimum case modding.
I have 1/2" tubing going on to 3/8" barbs for 1 of my rads and both of my reservoirs.. I just used jubilee clips and tightened hard. They're fine, no hint of a leak. Also used 3/8" tubing over 1/2" barbs once and after sticking the end in boiling water and putting a tiny but of grease (well, olivio 
) on the barbs that worked fine too..
we're talking milimeters, you shouldn't need to use stepdowns.
) on the barbs that worked fine too..we're talking milimeters, you shouldn't need to use stepdowns.
Soldato
On reflection I don't why I didn't just put a 1/2" barb on the radiator inlet and forget the stepdown altogether,would still of had to use something to adapt between res and pump inlet but there's no need at all for the stepdown you can see in the pic. 
Soldato
My Eheim 1250 has a 3/8 exit, still has 1/2 tygon on it, as said before, just tighten it more.
Finished...
Any opinions welcomed.
The system consists of Thermochill PA160 radiatior with 120m Akasa Ultra Quiet fan, Swiftech Storm CPU block, Silverprop Cyclone Fusion HL GPU block, Laing DD5 pump and a Danger Den fillport not to mention the Tygon tubing and, nickel barbs and T-piece.
Any opinions welcomed.
The system consists of Thermochill PA160 radiatior with 120m Akasa Ultra Quiet fan, Swiftech Storm CPU block, Silverprop Cyclone Fusion HL GPU block, Laing DD5 pump and a Danger Den fillport not to mention the Tygon tubing and, nickel barbs and T-piece.
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Can I ask how you guys drain the system with fillports like that? I've done a couple of water cooling setups now but so far have always ended up with a T-line with a bit of hose on that i can pull out of the case to drain the water out. Do you just pull the hose off the fillport and use that?
What temps you getting on the silverprop?
What temps you getting on the silverprop?
My graphics card is currently sitting at 29c idle but I'll post load temps when I have them.
TBH I've not even thought about draining the system yet but I was considering putting another fillport on the bottom of the case between the pump and the rad before I built it.
Edit - I might remove the blocks and lap them at some point but I couldn't be bothered at the moment.
TBH I've not even thought about draining the system yet but I was considering putting another fillport on the bottom of the case between the pump and the rad before I built it.
Edit - I might remove the blocks and lap them at some point but I couldn't be bothered at the moment.
Soldato
Nice, really similar loop to mine actually
I was considering cooling my 7800GT as I have a DD Maze 4 sat here on my desk, but the pumps kind of in the way. I guess the answer is to get one of those Laing's, how are they? Quiet?
I was considering cooling my 7800GT as I have a DD Maze 4 sat here on my desk, but the pumps kind of in the way. I guess the answer is to get one of those Laing's, how are they? Quiet?
They seem to be but its the first watercooling setup I've built so I don't really know. They do have a screw on the back that lets you adjust the...erm...pumpage and oviously the higher its set the louder the pump is.
My X-pro psu is louder than the pump.
My X-pro psu is louder than the pump.
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Hmmmm, its not worth forking out for a new pump though and my 7800GT rarely goes over 50C.... dunno, might be able to re-jig the Eheim so I can ge the waterblock in there but its not that important really.
Might even just get one of those new Zalman VF900's on it.
Might even just get one of those new Zalman VF900's on it.
Associate
Flip it over so it's standing on it's lid, fillport hanging over edge of desk, take plug out of fillport. Preferably with a bucket underneath. Go make a brew. Come back and should be more or less empty.
There is no "procedure" or right and wrong for draining a system... just go with the most obvious looking method... akin to how to empty a can of coke. Make a hole in it (open it), tip it up.