Ha, pretty sure I can resist that much... Extra weights, boards and an LCD screen though you say? ffs....
Well I fell down the custom keyboard world.
- Thread starter davetherave2
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Yep I think some people think I have lost mine (I do as well when I see everything that I am still waiting for) - although I wonder if I had any in the first place.
The Zoom75 indeed looks like a lovely bit of kit and seems to have improved the design from earlier models, will be interesting to see all the builds in the coming months when they eventually arrive.
It can seem like an odd hobby, but on the other hand what other hobbies scratch the Lego/Build/Customisation itch, but also result in a personalised object that most people use constantly in the course of normal life and work?
I've got a Q1V1 barebones arriving tomorrow (got it new for half price). Looking forward to de-pinging it!
I've got a Q1V1 barebones arriving tomorrow (got it new for half price). Looking forward to de-pinging it!
I did look at getting one of those but really wanted a white one.....
So, I took delivery of some more switches today (Banana Splits) and they're pre-lubed.
In order to clean them off before lubing (and filming?) them myself, is there a lazy way I can do this by just breaking them down into parts, then putting all the bits into 4 small tubs, covering with Iso Alcohol and shaking them around before giving them a wipe?
Or do I need to clean them individually?
In order to clean them off before lubing (and filming?) them myself, is there a lazy way I can do this by just breaking them down into parts, then putting all the bits into 4 small tubs, covering with Iso Alcohol and shaking them around before giving them a wipe?
Or do I need to clean them individually?
Did you do anything special for this over and above the usual force break stuff?
Force break and a layer of adhesive felt in the base under the two stock foam sheets, then a couple of thin strips of felt under the thin bars in the top case just to discourage them from resonating. I think force break did the heavy lifting though.
Oddly, some switches were audibly pinging when I built it. Was intending to strip it again and lube them, but after half a day's use they've calmed down. Never had that before. Maybe the factory lube needed distributing, I dunno.
I've got an FR4 and PC plate arriving for it soon, be interested to see how they sound/feel.
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Great thanks. I have a white ANSI and a black ISO, both V2 knobs, and the white is a bit more pingy than the black one, it's also about 250g lighter but not yet weighed all the bits to see what's causing it.
For the force break stuff did you just put bits in or pretty much do the whole perimeter? I've done sections of mine and haven't really resolved it. This is a V2 as I mentioned and already has bits of silicon to supposedly negate the need of a force break but I need to do something more I think.....
I use strips of double sided tape, but leave the backing on. Just enough to squidge between the two halves and prevent metal to metal contact. And I just snug the screws.
Managed to pluck up the courage and soldered my first Keeb this week. I have had my Mr Suit for almost a year and had been waiting for a streamer here to build it for me, but his lead time just kept extending.
So I bought myself a TS101 and thought I'd try it myself. Not sure what I was worried about, was super easy and occording to my bro whos been soldering for 30years, I did a good job.
Now I'm waiting for Sonnet restock and I'll get a solder board for that, its far more satisfying than HS, but I know there are pitfalls like desoldering for chaging switches (i'll just get more boards).
So I bought myself a TS101 and thought I'd try it myself. Not sure what I was worried about, was super easy and occording to my bro whos been soldering for 30years, I did a good job.
Now I'm waiting for Sonnet restock and I'll get a solder board for that, its far more satisfying than HS, but I know there are pitfalls like desoldering for chaging switches (i'll just get more boards).
Thanks and yep that's what I've done although I used a painter's type tape and also some strips of foam. Maybe I just need to experiment with location as I just used the largest surfaces if you see what I mean. Having said that I don't tighten it hard, just snug like you say so it shouldn't be touching anywhere.
Will have another play.
I've got an FR4 plate on my Q3 and quite like it, although I've not tried the PC. It's a bit clacky (FR4), not sure I'd get away with it in the office, I'd probably prefer a more marbled sound as well to be fair.
I think the ZoomTKL I have coming has a PC plate so I'll see then. Not tried Aluminium, Brass or Copper before.
The Zoom 75 GB has plate additions so I considered adding FR4 or Alu or POM to the standard PC but I'm not sure I'd ever be fussed with the aggro of swapping over which then means adding PCBs to the order for simplicities sake Jeez this is (getting) ridiculous
In my experiments I've found "Less is more" when it come to Force Break. Metal to metal contact means they only touch at high points on the surface, which tends to produce metallic nodal resonances. Having just thin tape stops metal to metal contact but still strongly acoustically couples the case halves meaning they dampen each other with their mass, if you see what I mean. With felt or foam between them, the case halves aren't strongly coupled and tend to keep ringing separately.
Might be total cobblers- I had an Engineering background, but not in acoustics as you can probably tell
If it helps, when I flick the case on mine, it sounds more like a piece of dense wood than a block of metal!
Yeah my black one is like that but not the white one. Very odd but it is quite a bit lighter too so must be some engineering difference, just haven't been bothered to determine which bit yet
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It isn't as scary as people think it is. I was the same when I did my first board (back in late 2021) and I had the added headache of getting the wrong sized solder so had to be extra patient due to it being a touch thicker than standard.
It is a very satisfying feeling when you have done it and everything works.
Desoldering is relatively simple. You can either get the expensive desolder guns or if you are doing it very occasionally pick up a SS-02 pump for less than £20 (again I thought this would be a nightmare but I had to do this recently due to a dodgy pcb after a firmware flash) and again as long as you take your time it isn't as difficult as it seems at first.
SS-02s are brilliant. To the point where I've stopped lusting after a desktop desolder station.