How come you didn't place the small cylinder under the seat?
What did you do to your bike today?
- Thread starter edd1e
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How come you didn't place the small cylinder under the seat?
Associate
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- 21 Apr 2006
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I considered it, or behind a fairing, but it would be nearly horizontal in those places and not sure if that would affect flow rate etc.
I am soon,im just ill that's why,lost weight and feel the cold more
Really? What happened? Don't you remember all that talk about being a wuss?
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No, never seen that mentioned in the book. Would it make a big enough difference ??
Today I took off the valve cover and measured the clearances. Took me ages to get that cover off. I was just so slow and cautious lol Big jessie!
Had to get creative with the cam chain tensioner thingy. Never had the key so had to shove in a tiny wee screwdriver and hold the tension with a spanner against the bike. Worked a treat !!
When I was turning the engine to get it to align with the marks for measuring the valves this happened ...
Whats going on their ? the engine turned fine and the chain was on the sprockets, just not tight against them at the top. No idea if this is the norm or what. My gut feeling says it's not.
If it's actual pitting, probably not, but it can clean up the pitting and just leave a chip-like pit there rather than a rust filled one, which you wouldn't see unless close up.
Soldato
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- 5 Jun 2003
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- sawley/ long eaton
The start of getting the Hornet back on the road. It didn't run all that great last year. Got to around 8k revs and didn't go any further so I was basically stuck at 55-60mph farting along the road. It revs fine standing still.
Plugs are a bit black and sooty. #2 plug has a bit of oil on it as well.
Compression test results (psi) dry #1 @ 125 #2 @ 140 #3 @ 125 #4 @ 130
Compression test results (psi) wet #1 @ 145 #2 @ 160 #3 @ 145 #4 @ 150
From what my Haynes is saying this is all on the low side. They should be up near 190.
I'll measure the valve clearances tomorrow and see where they're at.
I'm a total novice at all this so everything takes me ages.
A said in another post, you test with the throttle wide open.
If you do it with the throttle closed your only getting a small amount of air that it can suck in with the throttles on tickover level, on full throttle its getting as much air as possible .
you may want to think about running an engine flush though it, it will free any sticking rings etc, it does work.
Have done it to my own bike with great results, you need one for a bike though, don't use one meant for a car.
I used this one
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311385476727?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
these are my before and after tests
cylinder 1 = 150psi
cylinder 2 = 141psi
cylinder 3 = 96psi (service limit 109 psi)(new engine 175 psi)
cylinder 4 = 160psi
as you can see I thought #3 pot had a broken ring or valve leak/head gasket/rebore needed.
Turned out it was just stuck rings
after the flush.
cylinder 1 = 157 psi
cylinder 2 = 150 psi
cylinder 3 = 150 psi
cylinder 4 = 160 psi
bikes running really good now, this was 2 years ago and the bike is still running great and the latest test the compressions are un changed
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I'll need to get it put back together and do the compression test again, made an arse of it. The valve clearances were all within spec so that's good considering I have no idea when they were last done. I'll certainly order a can of that flush and do an oil change, probably next week when I'm off. Thanks for the tip on those.
On the list for getting the Hornet back on the road is the brakes. Both front and rear pads are nearly down to the bone. I'll get some new fluid in the pipes as well.
Checkout wemoto mate. Prices are reasonable for hornet parts.
Had my zzr out for some air before clean and new rear disc fitting the other is starting to look scabby.
vfr has been winter work horse this year
Nice bike - it's a shame that this segment seems to have died off a bit. i.e. comfortable, powerful sports tourers like this and the Blackbird. I had a sit on a ZZR1400 at the bike show but that bike felt very long and stretched out compared to the Blackbird that I owned a few years ago.
Associate
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- 20 May 2007
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You can get high temp sealants such as Finish Kare 1000P
I use Britemax Metal Twins on my car though which is awesome stuff.
Yeah, used them for a clutch cable last year. Really good prices.
I went and done that compression test again. This time opening up the throttle.
Dry test had all 4 cylinders at 150psi spot on.
Wet test had 1,2 and 4 at almost 180psi however cylinder 3 only got to 165psi.
So i'm not really sure if these results mean that with a 30psi difference when oil is sealing the rings that 1,2 and 4 need new rings. As for 3 well maybe that's fine ... no idea.
Yeah, used them for a clutch cable last year. Really good prices.
I went and done that compression test again. This time opening up the throttle.
Dry test had all 4 cylinders at 150psi spot on.
Wet test had 1,2 and 4 at almost 180psi however cylinder 3 only got to 165psi.
So i'm not really sure if these results mean that with a 30psi difference when oil is sealing the rings that 1,2 and 4 need new rings. As for 3 well maybe that's fine ... no idea.
I'm not going to pretend that I know anything about this...but...logically if there is a higher pressure surely that means a better seal? So would point to no.3 being the one that needs to be looked at?
well yes but that better seal must mean that the rings were bad in the first place ? I don't know. It's a funny old thing this diagnosing engine problems when you don't have a scooby and the haynes doesn't really explain it that well if at all. Cylinder 3 must have other issues besides the rings as it's no where near spec which is 185-191 according to the haynes manual.
This might help? Had a read of it and it seems to make sense
http://www.gregsengine.com/cylinder-compression-testing.html
I know its for a car but the same logic applies