What did you do to your bike today?

The_Abyss · 30 Oct 2016 at 21:40

Thanks

unKle · 31 Oct 2016 at 15:12

Carried out main beam mod on the Aprilia. Soldered in a diode so that the dip beam stays on when switching on main beam.

Fairly straightforward job, took about 20 mins in all. Should help now my commute to and from work is in darkness for the next 4 months..

Kreeeee · 31 Oct 2016 at 15:43

Got a guide for that?

It looks really weird when I put the high beam on an it's just one light.

Have you done the exhaust servo mod on yours? I want to install a race ECU too but they're not available for the 2016 with the faster ECU yet

Yaayuh! · 31 Oct 2016 at 15:48

I presume that the wiring and battery/alternator are okay with all 3 lamps on at once?

Kreeeee · 31 Oct 2016 at 15:50

That's my only concern with doing the mod, but the 1100 has a beefy electrical system due to the issues Aprilia had on the old 1000's.

TallPaul_S · 31 Oct 2016 at 15:54

That's really weird that the high beam is only the middle light! You could also stick some LED bulbs in the low beam, shouldn't have any power issues then.

The_Abyss · 31 Oct 2016 at 16:05

This was a common mod on Caponords and the electrical system held up just fine, alongside running additional electrical equipment too (sat nav, phone and battery chargers, heated grips etc).

unKle · 31 Oct 2016 at 16:13

Nope, there's no guide. Picked up 10 x 1n4002 diodes for 99p off ebay (100v 1A).

Remove the two screws that hold the switch gear together underneath the switch.

Prise open and remove from handlebar.

Remove the 4 small screws that hold the switches in the housing.

Remove the button (mode button) so you can remove the switch from the casing.

Tin the ends of the diode and make sure you solder it to the correct wires as per photo - also make sure you put the diode on the right way..

Start the bike and operate main beam to check it works ok, refit in reverse order!

I've got some led bulbs to go in there too so the load on the lighting circuit isn't a concern.

Yep I've done the exhaust servo mod, I posted that a little while back.

https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showpost.php?p=29937587&postcount=13786

Also got a lead and GuzziDiag software to keep tabs on the Italian electric gremlins.

Kreeeee · 31 Oct 2016 at 16:16

I've done the servo mod on mine too but I have some concerns about the over-lean fuelling without updating the ECU.

unKle · 31 Oct 2016 at 16:25

I don't think you have anything to worry about as you're still running the stock system with the catalyst inside aren't you. Best thing you can do is visit a rolling road to check for correct AFR etc to stem your worries. I imagine you'd have less to worry about riding at altitude/mountain roads near you anyway? Thinner air = rich AFR.

Kreeeee · 31 Oct 2016 at 16:39

Yeah stock system as removing the cat = crushed bike here.

I live about 700m above sea level and the mountains are up to 4000m above. It's certainly high enough to make a noticeable difference to power, so I guess it must have an effect on AFR.

phil675 · 31 Oct 2016 at 18:05

New oil, filter, air filter and rear brake pads today.

Drunkenmassacre · 31 Oct 2016 at 18:16

Sadly I forgot to post yesterday, but I went for my first track day! Cadwell Park was great fun- if a little greasy. Made for some very squeaky bum moments but loved it none the less. The blackbird held up well for an old girl

edd1e · 31 Oct 2016 at 20:57

Brave doing your first trackday at this time of the year! Glad you had fun

CGrieves · 3 Nov 2016 at 14:45

Today I mostly reconstructed the rear ABS cable on my 990SMT. Half way through the commute the ABS light came on, when I parked up I found it literally torn in half.

Nope, no clue how that happened either!

Glaucus · 4 Nov 2016 at 12:43

failed mot, blowing exhaust

no other issues or advisories. so could have been worse.
annoying thing is its in a really awkward place can feel it, but cant get my head in there to see it, but it was chucking down. do have a welder but really don't want to take the exhaust off. 4 cylinders 8 bolts that I doubt have moved in 25years. gaskets etc.

when its dry i'll get the phone in there and see if I can get a picture of the hole and see what I can do.

Diddums · 4 Nov 2016 at 13:09

For peace of mind get a garage with an impact drill to take them out. Depending on wjat access is like, you can probably give them £20 to loosen them for you. Tighten them with the socket and ratchet you conveniently took with you, ride home and work at your leisure.

Or mess about possibly breaking the studs / bolts and creating a world of pain for yourself.

tom_e · 4 Nov 2016 at 13:15

At that age it really doesn't matter what you try, they'll almost certainly need drilling out.

.one. · 4 Nov 2016 at 13:29

tom_e said:
At that age it really doesn't matter what you try, they'll almost certainly need drilling out.

I have removed studs from much older bikes with out drilling if you still have some thread you have a big chance of removing the last thing to do is drill and insert.

T1Cybernetic · 4 Nov 2016 at 16:03

I'm in the same boat too

My exhaust is not leaking but the bolts look to be from the year 1950 and I dare not loosen them in case they break off or round etc.

My plan is to simply replace the bolts with some new ones so I am going to keep spraying (Drowning) them with WD40? for a couple of weeks and then use the gas burner to heat them up and try and loosen them with a friends impact drill.

Failing that I don't know what else I can do