What did you do to your bike today?

TallPaul_S said:
Rebuilding calipers isn't that hard a job really, the hardest bit is getting the pistons out.

And the price of a new set of pistons and seals!! Especially if you have 4-pot calipers :eek:
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I Haven't touched brakes yet as I was unsure when I started out. A lot happier now but as I dont have a shed yet I don't want brake fluid etc in the utility room where little hands can get at it.
 
Gave my brakes their regular clean, they were getting like the underside of a boat there was that much salt on them! Had a little run out as it's been sat for 2 weeks, checked all the usual, lubed chain, WD40 on a creaky brake lever. All ready for the commute to work tomorrow (boo!!).
 
Had the Hornet's rear wheel off. Cleaned the brakes, pads, new pin, re-greased wheel stuff etc. Squeak is gone :D. Hopefully that's fixed it and it doesn't come back. Wheel bearing rubber housing isn't looking great, but they still move and sound fine.

Also now using this on the Hornet's rear brake:

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I love the idea. If it lasts well on the Hornet, then I'll be replacing my rear Speed Triple one as well. No more nasty allen head ones that strip if you look at them (although not had a stuck one in ages now, since lots of copper grease and more regular cleaning). Plus these have a nice big head rather than being recessed in, so if you do strip it, there are more options in terms of fixing it (saw through, drill in, etc.)

They're also stainless & relatively cheap. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251594946405?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
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I replaced oil + filters today, but screwed up.

One of the oil filter screws wouldn't budge, so I put a bit too much pressure on it and heard a pop. I've ruined the thread in the hole.

The screw was an m5x16. Would it be possible to rethread it? If so, what would I need?

Also, whilst draining the oil. I removed a bolt in the engine case expecting one of the metal filters, but a orange/red spring came out. What was that? I can't find anything in the manual.
 
Ordered. Should be here tomorrow with prime.

What freaked me out is that after doing the oil change, I went to start the bike but the engine wouldn't turn over. I tried a few times, then the red coolant light came on.

Hooking it up to my charger, the battery was nearly dead.

I was slightly paranoid that taking the spring out screwed something up :p.
 
That's not overly surprising if you now have one of the bolts just flapping about :p

To be fair it's done you a favour well into the minus figures in our neck of the woods tomorrow morning.

What sort of filter setup does your bike use? I'm guessing from your description it's not like a normal canister filter.
 
Clean it with paraffin/chain cleaner/blood of your local virgin, lube it, forget about it until it needs lubing again.

Some surface rust on the side plates is no big deal.
 
No, just a rag. You could wire brush it if you wish but you'll need to be careful not to nick any of the seals between the plates and rollers.

This is assuming it is just surface rust on the side plates and you've not let it end up getting totally eaten around the rollers and things as well.
 
tom_e said:
That's not overly surprising if you now have one of the bolts just flapping about :p

To be fair it's done you a favour well into the minus figures in our neck of the woods tomorrow morning.

What sort of filter setup does your bike use? I'm guessing from your description it's not like a normal canister filter.
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It's got two oil pumps, so two different sized canisters (one on each side of the engine). Then it appears to have two mesh canisters. These just require a clean, unless damaged.
 
For chain rust, I usually put the bike on a stand, turn it on and knock it into first, then used a soft wire brush to clean it. Possibly not the best thing to do going by tom_e's advice :D.
 
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