What did you do to your bike today?
- Thread starter edd1e
- Start date
It's an old CB400, there ain't an ECU anywhere in sight on that thing
It's a Super Four- of course it has an ecu....
That was the first known issue when I bought it, but that problem's gone away now that it is being started more regularly. There's no sound at all, just a dimming of the electrics.
This. I was gonna say loose earth connection somewhere but then it'd also happen when riding.
Sorry mate, I completely misunderstood the problem, got it confused with Noobish Abbz' starter issue. I thought it was spinning on the starter but not firing. Apologies!
Definitely sounds like a starter or relay issue.
Definitely sounds like a starter or relay issue.
I wish it was that simple. You're actually lucky, imagine doing this on a modern bike with all their extra leccy gubbins.
Start here:
https://www.denniskirk.com/learn/how-to-diagnose-motorcycle
To be honest it's much of a muchness tbh. At that level of sophistication there's not much difference in it and your CV400 probably shares it's loom with a few other bikes, but don't quote me on that. I love faultfinding tbh. Start at one end and gradually eliminate everything until you find the fault.
I had an issue with the CBR where it would ride fine for upto 30ish mins and then would cut out. Nothing I did got it going again apart from waiting for 2 hours. It would then start witout issue.
Eventually found the issue to be one of the stator wires had gone through the insultation and was arcing against the frame. This in turn stressed the fuel relay and even had the contacts pulling out of the solder in the fuel pump.
This seemed to need time to take hold and shut the bike down. Might be work checking the loom for something similar
Eventually found the issue to be one of the stator wires had gone through the insultation and was arcing against the frame. This in turn stressed the fuel relay and even had the contacts pulling out of the solder in the fuel pump.
This seemed to need time to take hold and shut the bike down. Might be work checking the loom for something similar
Awesome, thanks. You've been amazingly helpful. Please feel free to put the icing on the cake and pop over this weekend to fix the fault!
Thanks - will have a look around and see if there's anything like this going on.
Honestly if I wasn't working I probably would. Been years since I've had a good spannering session. Good luck, once you get the basics the rest tends to fall in to place.
I have got a 1999 Firebalde that I bought back in May of last year. It has been quite heavily modified, won't list everyting, but RSVR rear swingarm, R1 rear shock, 929 front forks, custom rear subframe and race seat. When I viewed the bike I was pretty sure there were a few things wrong with it, and the previous owner hadn't looked after it, but I was prepared to spend time and money on it as I got it cheap. It failed it's MOT last year and needed quite a bit of work doing to it:
I have now, more or less completed all the work, the only thing I am struggling on is the rear brake inline pressure switch. I can see exactly where it is leaking from but am buggered if anything I have seen is the correct part to replace it with. The garage that quoted the work said he uses Goodridge ones like these:https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Prod...V8DLTCh2LUAIDEAQYAyABEgLOAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds but honestly this looks nothing like the part that is leaking on mine. I may have to admit defeat in this and just ask the garage to do it.
The radiator is now all back on with nice straight fins, I have discovered though that the fan doesn't kick in, so I have got a manual switch to wire in this weekend. All new fluids all around. Exhaust and callipers painted black (The bike itself is white so the black goes really well, and the EBC Vee rotors have black hubs). The oil seals hadn't 'gone' they just had dirt and bits in them which didn't allow them to make a seal properly. Bought a sealmate and sorted them in about 30 mins!
My only 2 issue's doing the whole work was 2 snapped studs/bolts. I snapped a bolt undoing the old brake disc. Had to take it to a local car garage who removed it for £10 for me. And I also snapped the head of an exhaust stud. Now this really annoyed me. I ran the bike everyday for a week prior to removing them. Sprayed WD40 after heating it up each day. Then when I came to remove it again ran the bike to temperature before removing the studs. They came off fine. Cleaned all the studs, sanded and painted the exhaust. One snapped when I came to put it back on. So ****** off.
This weekend will involve me getting the fairing all back on and the manual switch wired in. Hopefully will get the brakes bled this weekend as well and then back to get the MOT done at the end of this month.
- Headlamp image kick incorrect tape and align headlight - £10.00+vat
- Supply and install red rear reflector - £2.00+vat
- EBC Vee Rotor front brake discs - £140.00+vat each
- EBC HH front brake pads - £20.70+vat each. I have quoted 929 front brake as I suspect this is what they are.
- Rear brake inline pressure switch - £14.00 +vat
- Dot 4 brake fluid - £2.17+vat
- Rear Brake pads - £18.75+vat
- Front fork K-tech parts:
- Oil seals - £16.61
- Dust seals - £17.50+vat
- Guide bushes - £9.78+vat
- Slide bushes - £10.64+vat
- Front fork oil £11.80
- Labour 5hrs @ £55.00+vat per hrs
- Sundries and consumables £3.00+vat
I have now, more or less completed all the work, the only thing I am struggling on is the rear brake inline pressure switch. I can see exactly where it is leaking from but am buggered if anything I have seen is the correct part to replace it with. The garage that quoted the work said he uses Goodridge ones like these:https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Prod...V8DLTCh2LUAIDEAQYAyABEgLOAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds but honestly this looks nothing like the part that is leaking on mine. I may have to admit defeat in this and just ask the garage to do it.
The radiator is now all back on with nice straight fins, I have discovered though that the fan doesn't kick in, so I have got a manual switch to wire in this weekend. All new fluids all around. Exhaust and callipers painted black (The bike itself is white so the black goes really well, and the EBC Vee rotors have black hubs). The oil seals hadn't 'gone' they just had dirt and bits in them which didn't allow them to make a seal properly. Bought a sealmate and sorted them in about 30 mins!
My only 2 issue's doing the whole work was 2 snapped studs/bolts. I snapped a bolt undoing the old brake disc. Had to take it to a local car garage who removed it for £10 for me. And I also snapped the head of an exhaust stud. Now this really annoyed me. I ran the bike everyday for a week prior to removing them. Sprayed WD40 after heating it up each day. Then when I came to remove it again ran the bike to temperature before removing the studs. They came off fine. Cleaned all the studs, sanded and painted the exhaust. One snapped when I came to put it back on. So ****** off.
This weekend will involve me getting the fairing all back on and the manual switch wired in. Hopefully will get the brakes bled this weekend as well and then back to get the MOT done at the end of this month.