Do you've a photo with stickers and without? Would be interesting to compare between the two.
What did you do to your bike today?
- Thread starter edd1e
- Start date
Deleted member 651465
Deleted member 651465
Picked up a big can of WD40 chain wax from the local bike shop. £9, and it came with a big can of WD40 chain cleaner.
I know what I’m doing today
I know what I’m doing today
Didn't do anything to it but took it for a nice 200mile bimble around the Cornish coastline for the BMW Club Southwest Alphabet Challenge all 6 Cornish locations in one day I am now completely knackered but had a great day out with the wife.
Now I just need to do Devon, Somerset and Dorset
Now I just need to do Devon, Somerset and Dorset
Changed the chain and sprockets and some other general bits and bobs.
Looked at the state of the spacers and bearings in my shock linkage, remembered the quotes I had to replace them and the swingarm bearings and started thinking about just replacing the bike again
Looked at the state of the spacers and bearings in my shock linkage, remembered the quotes I had to replace them and the swingarm bearings and started thinking about just replacing the bike again
Castrol racing lube.
Deleted member 651465
Deleted member 651465
My Castrol racing lube ran out and I’d heard good things about the waxRuining your chain with wax?
My Castrol racing lube ran out and I’d heard good things about the wax
Wax is fine, you just have to clean your chain often when using it as it turns into a gritty paste quite quickly, and you can't just top it up like you can with oils. It's also a pain to clean off each time.
I prefer gear oil because you never have to clean the chain to keep it shiny and grit free. You do have to reapply it after every wet ride though unlike wax.
For commuting an auto chain oiler is the best solution for me. You don't need to use branded lube, I just use cheap mineral engine oil.
It flings slightly more than spray lube or wax, but it wipes off in two seconds- wax needs proper washing/dissolving in my experience.
The real advantage is that the chain only needs adjusting every 4000-8000 miles, and the sprockets wear out long before the chain does. You get mega mileage out of a set if you use steel sprockets- I saw 30,000 miles on a Bandit 1200.
It flings slightly more than spray lube or wax, but it wipes off in two seconds- wax needs proper washing/dissolving in my experience.
The real advantage is that the chain only needs adjusting every 4000-8000 miles, and the sprockets wear out long before the chain does. You get mega mileage out of a set if you use steel sprockets- I saw 30,000 miles on a Bandit 1200.
Last edited:
Soldato
- Joined
- 24 Mar 2011
- Posts
- 6,479
- Location
- Kent
Yeah if you're commuting decent miles a scottoiler is second to none, I've got one on the VFR and in 10k miles I think I've had to adjust the chain twice, and it's far from new. You get a bit of fling but it comes off easy, in the winter you can just set and forget, just top it up every few weeks. Turn it up slightly when it's cold and wet and down when it's warm and dry.
FTFY
The Caponord failed its MOT a few weeks ago - the rear brake disc had a low spot and was pulsing - partly my fault for not checking properly, but I barely touch it so hadn't noticed. Of course all the UK suppliers had no stock and were asking silly money so ended up ordering from AF1 in the States, arrived on Friday for a third of the price including customs charges so yesterday was stripping down and rebuilding the rear wheel and brake, again.
While waiting for it to arrive I decided it was about time to get the old Goose back on the road so after a service and fixing everything* that went wrong with it last year, it sailed through MOT. Since then it's decided that one cylinder is plenty for tickover, and with the weather last week it was absolutely filthy, so this morning it got a good ol' clean and this afternoon's job is sorting the fuelling. Always something...
* Not quite everything, I've tried re-wrapping the exhaust but the wrap keeps sliding down. Tempted to do away with it, but the downpipes aren't exactly shiny underneath.
Saturday while the weather was nice, did an oil change, new oil filter, cleaned old air filter while the tank was off (because the new one hasn't arrived yet), new clocks because the old speedo was over-reading by a comedy amount (I knew I was doing 80mph because it told me I was doing 110mph), and put four new spark plugs in. It turns out, they aren't meant to look like this:
Need to pop the new air filter in, and grease the rear suspension linkage next, which'll probably be at the end of this week.
Need to pop the new air filter in, and grease the rear suspension linkage next, which'll probably be at the end of this week.
Last edited:
Fitted a new phone/GPS mount. Tenner from eBay. Been out for a spin and it works brilliantly.
Got a linky for that?
Got massive amounts of brake lever travel following a brake fluid change. They've been bleed to buggery but still nothing. I've read about removing calipers and resetting the piston position closer as there could be too big a gap between pad and disc at resting if that sounds plausible? Anyone got any other ideas?
Tie the brake lever back to the bar and leave it for a day or two. The pressure sends the air to the top. Worked well for me.