What did you do to your bike today?

Fitted the Triumph flyscreen:
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And an SP Engineering slip-on:
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Haven't ridden for about two months - battery has been off, but charged - man was she a ***** to start! Finally fired up, with a lovely deep growl now :D Had to take a spin to try out the new bits - felt so much more eager to belt along, even in the milder 'Road' mode; the roads were pretty **** but I enjoyed every moment of this short blat.
 
so much more eager to belt along, even in the milder 'Road' mode; the roads were pretty **** but I enjoyed every moment of this short blat.

On the 765 engines you universally lose a few hp from all slip-on exhausts regardless of which one you go for, but the sound change certainly makes it feel like it's got more poke!
 
On the 765 engines you universally lose a few hp from all slip-on exhausts regardless of which one you go for, but the sound change certainly makes it feel like it's got more poke!

That and they lose smoothness - at least, that's what a lot of forum posts suggested. The arse-dyno was plenty happy though, it was still smooth as well - if I have lost a few ponies, I don't mind, the sound is lovely :)
 
The UK roads are dreadful at the moment. Constantly cold and slick, and on the rare occasions that they're dry they're covered with layers of salt dust.
I've noticed lately that they're not spreading the roads with salt, it's a liquid that smells like vinegar and stays wet on the bike. The other day my screen and helmet were wet with it, but it was a moisture that didn't seem to dry out. Looks like it's designed to stick better to roads, and a by-product is that it also sticks to bikes and gear :(
 
I've noticed lately that they're not spreading the roads with salt, it's a liquid that smells like vinegar and stays wet on the bike. The other day my screen and helmet were wet with it, but it was a moisture that didn't seem to dry out. Looks like it's designed to stick better to roads, and a by-product is that it also sticks to bikes and gear :(

Still using salt around here its the main reason I have yet to get the bike out of the garage this year :(

On the plus side finally got round to fitting my Atlas Throttle lock ready for the tours we have planned from June onwards.

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So bedding in new brakes, I wanted to test the ABS so I squeezed my ASV lever as hard as I physically could (ABS is awesome btw). Shortly after this the front wheel begins to lock up, won't move as easily...

Turns out the ASV brake switch tab fouls on the metal brake line from the master cylinder when pulled in as far as I physically could and bent the tab! As the heat increases in the rotor the pressure builds.

Emailed ASV, they are sending another tab for free... yay!
 
I'm confused.... as the ABS gubbins is all downstream of the lever and master cylinder, there shouldn't be anything you can do at the lever that will cause a lockup?
I'm such a hulk of a man (ha) that I bent the lever, which pushed on the master cylinder all the time and as the heat got greater the pressure built up and the brakes were gradually increasing.

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This is the left side of the lever that goes behind the MC and pushes the brake switch, you can see the corner where it pushed into the metal brake line and thus bent.
 
Why you felt the need to grab the brake so hard, is still a mystery to me?

Was bedding in the brake pads and I'd bled the brakes. Manual says you should perform ABS stops (actually via a sequence in the dash but didn't know that).

Plus I wanted to see what would happen if I simply slammed the brakes on, not many people can say they've tried that and know what it'll do. It's 'supposed' to handle it, but until I did it I didn't know if it would.
 
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