What have you done to your car today?
- Thread starter mattyprice4004
- Start date
Caporegime
Soldato
Winning.
So having fitted the proper carburettor to the Landy engine, pa and I needed to cobble up an accelerator linkage. I tried it with cable the other day, but it wasn't going to work right.
Here is what the stock arrangement looks like:
As you can see, it comes from the bulkhead to a bell crank that's attached to the carb throttle lever with a balljointed arm. When the Weber DCD had been put on our car, all that gubbins between bulkhead and carb had been taken off and subsequently lost. And to be honest, we didn't feel like spending the money on replacing it all to factory stock.
So, we just did this:
A piece of flat steel, with a U-bolt through it at one end to hold it to the rod on the bulkhead (I've got some cable insulation wrapped around the 'U' to help it grip) and an M5 bolt through at the other end that connects to the carb throttle lever with a little balljoint. Total spend - a pint of Pedigree for the guy who gave us the steel and U-bolt, and a few pennies on the bolt and balljoint.
I need to finesse the angles in daylight, and then I can finish setting the tune on the carb to get the engine running perfectly. But it works.
So having fitted the proper carburettor to the Landy engine, pa and I needed to cobble up an accelerator linkage. I tried it with cable the other day, but it wasn't going to work right.
Here is what the stock arrangement looks like:
As you can see, it comes from the bulkhead to a bell crank that's attached to the carb throttle lever with a balljointed arm. When the Weber DCD had been put on our car, all that gubbins between bulkhead and carb had been taken off and subsequently lost. And to be honest, we didn't feel like spending the money on replacing it all to factory stock.
So, we just did this:
A piece of flat steel, with a U-bolt through it at one end to hold it to the rod on the bulkhead (I've got some cable insulation wrapped around the 'U' to help it grip) and an M5 bolt through at the other end that connects to the carb throttle lever with a little balljoint. Total spend - a pint of Pedigree for the guy who gave us the steel and U-bolt, and a few pennies on the bolt and balljoint.
I need to finesse the angles in daylight, and then I can finish setting the tune on the carb to get the engine running perfectly. But it works.
Caporegime
Cleaned it.
Soldato
So 30 quid yeah?
Would have thought a tenner would cover it, tbh
Soldato
Hardwired a dashcam into the wifes new car, pulling a brand new car apart felt strange.
Permabanned
Nice, Keep away from kerbs if you want them to stay that way, a moments inattention is all you need to **** them up.Wheels refurbished with new tyres.
[All pray]
Oh Lord, please protect our alloys from the evils of kerbside scrapes and atrocious parking when we fall into
the trap of allowing [ insert name of wife, partner, girlfriend here ] to drive our pride and joy , only the righteous
shall be saved and enter the kingdom of heaven.
Associate
Been working on the fuel system in my golf, got rid of the stock fuel pump that was unable to support the s3 engine, ended up getting some aluminium fabricated and fitted a swirl pot with 044 fuel pump. all hesitation has now gone and the car now pulls perfectly
Caporegime
Nice work 
Soldato
Not today, this weekend, had it MOTed, still going strong (mostly)...
I'll be replacing tyres this coming weekend and I'm sure that CV boot is ok, but I'll inspect it. They are actually worn evenly too, not just the edges. I put a new rack on about 2 miles before the MOT so tracking is way out and will be done at the same time as tyres.
Amusingly for me the Halfords Autocentre guys also gave me a check of parts:
Now I don't know about you but I'd say my discs and pads are ok...
...there might well be some crud on them and on the discs but the car has done about 5 miles in a month between MOTs so that's expected. The brakes are also larger than standard, drilled and grooved discs and Yellowstuffs pads, total cost for me to replace is under £100 in parts and about 30-45mins on the drive including jacking up etc.
Most annoying to me is that the disc bells are rusty so look bad, I didn't think to paint them when I fitted a couple years ago. Slight scratching on the surface but again, it's mostly down to scraping off the rust build up you get from wet discs after the car sat for a month.
As it passed the MOT I also gave it a wash (well, paid £5 for a bunch of guys to give it a nice scratchy wash and dry).
I'll be replacing tyres this coming weekend and I'm sure that CV boot is ok, but I'll inspect it. They are actually worn evenly too, not just the edges. I put a new rack on about 2 miles before the MOT so tracking is way out and will be done at the same time as tyres.
Amusingly for me the Halfords Autocentre guys also gave me a check of parts:
Now I don't know about you but I'd say my discs and pads are ok...
...there might well be some crud on them and on the discs but the car has done about 5 miles in a month between MOTs so that's expected. The brakes are also larger than standard, drilled and grooved discs and Yellowstuffs pads, total cost for me to replace is under £100 in parts and about 30-45mins on the drive including jacking up etc.
Most annoying to me is that the disc bells are rusty so look bad, I didn't think to paint them when I fitted a couple years ago. Slight scratching on the surface but again, it's mostly down to scraping off the rust build up you get from wet discs after the car sat for a month.
As it passed the MOT I also gave it a wash (well, paid £5 for a bunch of guys to give it a nice scratchy wash and dry).
Man of Honour
- Joined
- 21 Nov 2004
- Posts
- 45,691
Wheels refurbished with new tyres.
Very nice. I was going to get mine done. Decided against it. A couple of days later kerbed them again. Saved £600. My diamond cut wheels are ruined. Oh well.
Associate
Pads are obviously fine, in one pic though it looks like the disc is quite heavily lipped.
Soldato
I think it's the awful quality pictures to be honest, I'll get some proper ones later. Discs and pads are both the same age though, 2 years and ~12k miles.
The rear discs are awful though and I've had advisories for the last few years on them (although oddly not on this one). They work fine though and hold the car on the handbrake fine etc. also the rear discs have integrated bearings which makes replacing them annoying compared to conventional braking setups.
Caporegime
Now that I have finished painting my rear subframe, diff and arms I do not want to put it back together with rusty bolts so have had a go at Zinc plating. Ideally i should sand blast the lot but the tester piece that I have done has come out quite well I think. Just need to pick up some distilled water on the way home from work so I can passivate them to give them that shine.
Soldato
Toyota gave me a new battery on my 30k miles service, didn't test well apparently. Thank you Toyota
Soldato
@adam cool dude that is one freaky-looking thumb! 