I bought TRW M3 arms from AutoDoc. Think I got 8 control arms for around £350
What have you done to your car today?
- Thread starter mattyprice4004
- Start date
I bought TRW M3 arms from AutoDoc. Think I got 8 control arms for around £350
Soldato
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Picked up a super mint SR3 for the Evo
Man of Honour
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Used a more powerful hoover to clean all the rubbish out of the area where the soft top is stored. Ridiculously fiddly job, there must be an easier way to access it, but if there is I haven’t worked it out. A general wash and steam clean tomorrow.
Sent pictures of the documents to get new plates made up that a) won’t advertise the car dealership and b) won’t be screwed on
Sent pictures of the documents to get new plates made up that a) won’t advertise the car dealership and b) won’t be screwed on
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Soldato
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- 18 Oct 2002
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Back from the body shop, had the underside completely cleared of rust, re-sealed, rear subframe/suspension arms sandblasted & powercoated and poly bushed.
Excuse the snow foam everywhere! need to sort the LSD out now as thats letting it down! and replace the cv boots that came back split/cable tied, not sure why they touched them.....
Excuse the snow foam everywhere! need to sort the LSD out now as thats letting it down! and replace the cv boots that came back split/cable tied, not sure why they touched them.....
Soldato
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- 18 Mar 2012
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Got the **** box back from storage. It will be finished for this summer.
Took the rear arms off to fit bearings this week. It’s nice and clean underneath
Took the rear arms off to fit bearings this week. It’s nice and clean underneath
Just MOT'd our 350Z Roadster... passed as usual, not a bad little beasty for coming upto it's 16th year...
Although looks like we need a new clutch, can feel it slipping slightly now... so will be all over this in the next week or two!
Although looks like we need a new clutch, can feel it slipping slightly now... so will be all over this in the next week or two!
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Dropped in to my Indy to swap the oil-filter out. We gave it the once over a week ago after the car was delivered and it had been somewhat crushed by whoever the trader arranged to change the oil.
Found half an hour to hardwire my dashcam in too, much easier with a fuse box in the boot than behind the dash, a lot less swearing
Found half an hour to hardwire my dashcam in too, much easier with a fuse box in the boot than behind the dash, a lot less swearing
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Ran the Hilux out of fuel today.
In my defence, the gauge on the cluster doesn’t work (It’s got the cluster from the donor Altezza and the fuel gauge would normally be driven by the body ECU that I don’t have) and I’ve now learnt that the crappy aftermarket one that’s in the center console still shows 1/4 tank at the point it runs out.
Luckily I was only a hundred metres or so from home when it ran out and still had a bit of left over V-Power in a can for the race car so was able to put that in to get it back.
This weekend will be probably spent working on making the original gauge work now. I’ve already got a circuit made up on a breadboard that will drive the gauge on the cluster, just need to tweak it to accept the input from the factory sender and turn it into something a little more robust that I can tuck behind the dash
In my defence, the gauge on the cluster doesn’t work (It’s got the cluster from the donor Altezza and the fuel gauge would normally be driven by the body ECU that I don’t have) and I’ve now learnt that the crappy aftermarket one that’s in the center console still shows 1/4 tank at the point it runs out.
Luckily I was only a hundred metres or so from home when it ran out and still had a bit of left over V-Power in a can for the race car so was able to put that in to get it back.
This weekend will be probably spent working on making the original gauge work now. I’ve already got a circuit made up on a breadboard that will drive the gauge on the cluster, just need to tweak it to accept the input from the factory sender and turn it into something a little more robust that I can tuck behind the dash
Dropped in to my Indy to swap the oil-filter out. We gave it the once over a week ago after the car was delivered and it had been somewhat crushed by whoever the trader arranged to change the oil.
Found half an hour to hardwire my dashcam in too, much easier with a fuse box in the boot than behind the dash, a lot less swearing
But taking a dash apart is so fun!
Fear not!
Improv. with a bungee cord to save having to disconnect some trim completely while I added a Wi-Fi antenna ahead of an ID4 to ID6 iDrive/Carplay flash tomorrow morning.
Is this an F80? Any more details on the upgrade?Fear not!
Improv. with a bungee cord to save having to disconnect some trim completely while I added a Wi-Fi antenna ahead of an ID4 to ID6 iDrive/Carplay flash tomorrow morning.
![[TW]Fox](/data/man-of-honor/2009.png){kind=avatar}
Soldato
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I believe it is if you have an NBT, but I have seen comments about it being a little sluggish by comparison.
Can be a good alternative ATM given it’s tricky/expensive to find the right head unit
ID4 Evo units can be flashed to ID6. They do have problems with nav though because they don't have as much RAM so they will randomly reboot, but if you're not using the integrated nav and just want it for CarPlay etc then it's fine.
Not quite sure why ID4 Evo units were even a thing given that the UI looks just like NBT, but they are much easier to come by than ID5/ID6 units for people looking to retrofit Evo.
Not quite sure why ID4 Evo units were even a thing given that the UI looks just like NBT, but they are much easier to come by than ID5/ID6 units for people looking to retrofit Evo.
You need 5 or 6 to just enable CarPlay, quite a few third parties do this for around £40-50. ID4 can be flashed to ID6 with CarPlay full screen., I've ready mostly stories that the system is stable and fine and others that you might get a reboot occasionally. A used ID5/6 unit is about £400 and needs coding to the vehicle. A remote flash is around £120-£150.
I fitted an MMI box in my e92 and whilst it was fine and good value it didn't always boot instantly so you needed to press and hold menu for 3 seconds. Otherwise it was a very good addition for £200.
With the flash you'll need to fit the WiFi antenna (£10 from Amazon) if you want it to be wireless and only if you don't already have one fitted. Besides that it's an ENET cable, windows OS, TeamViewer and a trickle charge for your battery for the 45 minutes it takes to complete.
I've opted for a flash because it's marginally cheaper and prefer the fact it's essentially OEM, I don't need to remove the A pillar or roof lining or mess around with extra wiring harnesses and moving the optical cable between the two.
Search FlashXCode.
I'll feedback my experience after the weekend and once I've used the car with it for a week or so.
This page breaks it all down: https://www.bimmer-tech.net/blog/item/54-bmw-cic-nbt-nbtevo though it doesn't seem to mention flashing ID4 to ID6 which as I mentioned before, works fine but navigation will have problems because ID4 units have less RAM than ID5/ID6 units.
Basically NBT and NBT Evo ID4 look exactly the same in terms of UI, just Evo ID4 is quicker due to better hardware and it uses Evo maps. Not quite sure why it was even a thing.
That page seems to ignore iDrive 1 and lists CCC as the first version of iDrive which it wasn't.
My understanding was always..
ID1 - E65 original iDrive, Windows based
ID2 - CCC (E60, E90 etc)
ID3 - CIC (E90 LCI, E89, first few years F Series etc)
ID4 - NBT (F Series Sep 12 onwards)
ID5 NBT Evo (Two menu structures available, earlier ones look like ID4, later ones look like ID6)
ID6 - later F series and all pre ID7 G Series.
I may well be wrong but if your map version says 'Evo' it's not ID4 it's ID5?
This would be so much easier if BMW just put the iDrive version number in the cars settings somewhere
