What have you done to your car today?

It is another standard turbo I've bought, the Hitachi version of the IHI one I've just blown up, from a low KM car.

Haha thats awesome!

This is my first proper kei, I did have a Nippa before, but thats technically Malaysian despite being 99.9% an L200 Mira.
Haha it was sucha sleeper, it no joke made 200bhp per tonne and obviously weighs **** all IIRC about 845kg he said? He deliberately put a 996cc sticker on the back to troll people after he'd overtake/win a race :cry:

Ah nice, that'll be pretty sweet for awhile then!

I had 2 mates that were bang on into kei's, 1 is Charade only, and the other had all sorts.

Yeah def look into migrating any Starlet/Glanza stuff over, he had loads left over from his Glanza, and made all sorts fit his last 2 Mira's, even the massive TMIC, I think he might of made the stock Glanza turbo fit as well, but don't quote me on that, it went like **** though, iirc 12,500rpm or 13,000 the goto? Even with 6ft8 me in it and him being 6ft2 it still went well, but with him just in it, it was rapid that Mira, the Meth injected Charade however, was something you had to witness. It literally bullied a FQ400 and passed him by the end of the dually, was amazing to watch following them.
 
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[ complete earlier thread/polemic on ghost was it an audi(q8/q7?) where power steering electric module went * up, and dealer saw logged events on the bus ]
 
Yesterday got new OEM dual material front brake discs fitted which weigh 2kg per wheel lighter plus increase stopping power as slotted so cool down faster!
 
[ complete earlier thread/polemic on ghost was it an audi(q8/q7?) where power steering electric module went * up, and dealer saw logged events on the bus ]

I'm sure there was a thread in here about that very thing a few years back, might have been an audi though.
I'm assuming that's what jpauls word soup is referring to
 
Guys, watched a few YT vids on it, but drop links a easy d.i.y job?
Yep, they'll either have an allen head through the bolt or an extra hex/nut piece that you will need to grab whilst undoing the nut with another spanner (or rachet if you have the hex versus allen version, as obviously with the allen you have to use a spanner to be able to hold the allen thread when undoing it)

For reference here's one that has the hex style:
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So you just grab that rear hex with a spanner and undo the nut.

So make sure whichever yours have you grab it with that whilst undoing the bolt with a spanner, otherwise they'll just spin, if the allen rounds, you can usually still jam another spanner behind the bolt to stop it spinning, or get mole grips etc and grab it with them.

At worst you can use a junior hacksaw and cut it off if you don't have a grinder or dremel. when you replace them, use copper grease on the threads to save you ball ache in the future when you replace them again :)
 
Thanks for the info @keef247, appreciate it.

What I thought was a drop link has just left me completely amazed when I have jacked the car up!

I had two new front tyres fitted last week, this morning I have went to take the wheels off and have a look inside the arch to 'asses the job',
I put the wrench on one of the nuts to be amazed that it was hand tight!!! Check all 10 nuts on the front wheels and they were all slack. The tyres were booked in through black circle and done at a local tyre shop.

The thing Is i've just read on the email in small print they tell you to check torque setting within 50 miles of tyre change, but 99% of people don't do it. Feel a little bit sick!
 
Thanks for the info @keef247, appreciate it.

What I thought was a drop link has just left me completely amazed when I have jacked the car up!

I had two new front tyres fitted last week, this morning I have went to take the wheels off and have a look inside the arch to 'asses the job',
I put the wrench on one of the nuts to be amazed that it was hand tight!!! Check all 10 nuts on the front wheels and they were all slack. The tyres were booked in through black circle and done at a local tyre shop.

The thing Is i've just read on the email in small print they tell you to check torque setting within 50 miles of tyre change, but 99% of people don't do it. Feel a little bit sick!
You're very welcome mate!

Jesus, well at least YOU know that they're tight now mate, and you didn't get hurt.

I'm very anal about stuff like that, I chased a noise for ages and it turned out to be something I asked an alignment shop to check was tight whilst it was on the ramp - so I obviously didn't check it afterwards, when I did guess what the noise was... Yep the bolts they told me were tight - blatantly never even checked them.

Annoyed me big time as I do everything myself and would have checked it myself, but they were literally there with tools under it doing the alignment ffs... The other **** take was the fact it was a socket size they were using at the time to do the alignment ffs!
 
You're very welcome mate!

Jesus, well at least YOU know that they're tight now mate, and you didn't get hurt.

I'm very anal about stuff like that, I chased a noise for ages and it turned out to be something I asked an alignment shop to check was tight whilst it was on the ramp - so I obviously didn't check it afterwards, when I did guess what the noise was... Yep the bolts they told me were tight - blatantly never even checked them.

Annoyed me big time as I do everything myself and would have checked it myself, but they were literally there with tools under it doing the alignment ffs... The other **** take was the fact it was a socket size they were using at the time to do the alignment ffs!

Wow, almost neglect.

The thing that I'm a bit puzzled about is, doesn't a tyre shop check the nuts on the wheels with a torque wrench when they put the wheels back on the car? I'm sure the small print is just on the email to cover their back sides?
 
Wow, almost neglect.

The thing that I'm a bit puzzled about is, doesn't a tyre shop check the nuts on the wheels with a torque wrench when they put the wheels back on the car? I'm sure the small print is just on the email to cover their back sides?
Yeah, scumbags eh! My mate does my alignments at his tyre place and lets me go under the car and **** about with whatever I want whilst it's on the alignment lift, so happy days.

No mate, tyre shops are *****, they just do it up way to tight with a gun and risk snapping your wheel bolts/hub studs, then you have a nightmare getting them off again, a gun is safe to use to remove them but never to do them up fully, it's fine to lightly feather them on to save time but torqued up with a torque wrench is the proper way, you'd be surprised how little they actually require versus how easily overtightened they can be done even with a wheel brace!
 
they tell you to check torque setting within 50 miles of tyre change, but 99% of people don't do it. Feel a little bit sick!

For the vast majority of road cars this is absolute BS, they do not require it. A properly torqued wheel will not need to be checked after any amount of time or mileage. It's more of a get-out clause for them not doing the job right.
 
Oh, and we sold the old CR-V.

The bad
160k miles
Loads of parking dings and scratches
No synchro on 3rd
Nav screen doesn't work
Missing headlight washers
Hole in exhaust
No MoT

The good
Recent new clutch
Recent clustch master and slave cylinders
4 good tyres
2 recent front shocks
Recent brakes

How much do you rekon we got for it?
 
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Yesterday got new OEM dual material front brake discs fitted which weigh 2kg per wheel lighter plus increase stopping power as slotted so cool down faster!
These ones! But have to use old pads for now as still 50% life left in them not throwing those away yet as really expensive now so will take a few more miles to fully bed in!
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