What have you done to your car today?

Been replacing loads of self tappers with rivnuts on the engine bay floor on the Noble. Self tappers fine on the rest of the floor which never comes off but less so on what's effectively an undertray :D
 
Acme - Gearbox/Diff - For the LOVE OF GOD, open the Fill plug first before you open the drain plug just to make sure you can fill it back up afterwards! :D

Also, with some diff/GB types you'll also need a pump (effectively a big syringe with a flexible hose) to either fill or suction drain the fluids, find out before starting.
 
I was planning on undoing the fill plug first, but why is it important I do so? I just kinda thought I should... Airflow? So there isn't a vacuum? So it doesnt come out in a jet? So it comes out at all? :p

I have a big syringe and lots of pipe. I thought (for both diff and gearbox)

Put tray underneath
Undo fill plug
Undo drain plug
Wait to drain (such out with syringe if required)
Re-fit drain plug, put oil in bit by bit with syringe until level with the bottom of the fill plug (when it starts to spill out)
Replace fill plug
Done?
 
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Acme said:
Doing anything interesting? :)

Quick question - any recommendation for gearbox and diff oil to use? Going to do both soon, they're overdue.

Also any tips? I know about the location of the drain and fill plugs, and the people who have undone the pivot bolts and things by mistake, so I won't be doing that. :D

Unrelated question - The plastic trim around the gearstick gaiter, does that pop off? Or do I need to take the whole centre console out to replace the leather gaiter? :)
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Pulling live data to output onto a 16x2 LCD I'd like to know what temperatures things are a bit more accurately than the factory gauges tell me

Diff oil I'm not sure yours will need something different to mine I would imagine, gearbox Motul Gear 300 75w90 GL4. As Ian said make sure you undo the fill bung first.

Also buy yourself the pair of shift turret boots and replace those and change the turret oil when you do the rest

Think you have to remove the rear portion of the center console to do the gear gaiter. It's a screw either side at the front, one under the ash tray and a couple under the flip open cover.
 
Acme said:
Quick question - any recommendation for gearbox and diff oil to use? Going to do both soon, they're overdue.
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Mines a mk2.5 6 speed with LS rear diff and I used Millers CRX NT 75W90. Can't remember if I used the LS specific oil in the rear diff (I have both left over from my other car). It depends on the type of LSD as to whether it requires the LS type oil.

I use Millers mainly as i've had good results with it in my Evo - which has a notoriously fussy gearbox (Crunchy from 2nd-3rd when cold, and generally grumpy - all normal behaviour apparently!)
 
Gayjin said:
Mines a mk2.5 6 speed with LS rear diff and I used Millers CRX NT 75W90. Can't remember if I used the LS specific oil in the rear diff (I have both left over from my other car). It depends on the type of LSD as to whether it requires the LS type oil.

I use Millers mainly as i've had good results with it in my Evo - which has a notoriously fussy gearbox (Crunchy from 2nd-3rd when cold, and generally grumpy - all normal behaviour apparently!)
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His will be a Torsen LSD and 5 speed box (I assume yours will be a Super Tochigi-Fuji clutch type)

Funny you mention EVOs my dad had good results with redline MT 90 in his, its what I put in my first gearbox and that lasted another 1000 miles before ultimately biting the dust (I know it wasn't power as they should cope with way above 205 lb/ft)
 
It's an early mk2.5 RS so should be one of these:

1.8 6MT NB2 'RS' grade JTEKT/Zexel TORSEN® LSD (Type 2) (3.909 FD)

I think those Fuji ones are largely regarded as being a bit grim as they slowly become an open diff when they are worn.

The Redline oils are a bit of a contentious subject - some people (read: particularly the Americans) rate them really highly, but a lot of other people say it isn't suitable for the Evo gearbox by it's own quoted specification. I suppose it's whatever works for you. I had Castrol Syntrax in it before the Millers and it was just nasty.

Personally i'm looking forward to the day when I don't have to buy 5 different fluid types for a single car drivetrain any more
 
Had to buy a replacement pull bit for the fuel release cable in the boot. Managed to lose mine inside the car as I was pulling out carpeting.

Sodding £3.99 for this piece of plastic :/

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Watched my mother reverse into my Z4, lovely crack all the way down the middle of the nose cone :mad: Came back last night from the garage getting the handbrake cable replaced at £180 (Labour included)

Thought great, got all the issues sorted, this happens, I'm trying to sell the damn thing.
 
Gayjin said:
It's an early mk2.5 RS so should be one of these:

1.8 6MT NB2 'RS' grade JTEKT/Zexel TORSEN® LSD (Type 2) (3.909 FD)

I think those Fuji ones are largely regarded as being a bit grim as they slowly become an open diff when they are worn.

The Redline oils are a bit of a contentious subject - some people (read: particularly the Americans) rate them really highly, but a lot of other people say it isn't suitable for the Evo gearbox by it's own quoted specification. I suppose it's whatever works for you. I had Castrol Syntrax in it before the Millers and it was just nasty.

Personally i'm looking forward to the day when I don't have to buy 5 different fluid types for a single car drivetrain any more
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They are it's usually due to MOT testers putting them on a brake meter which makes the Fuji diff turn itself to dust.

Oils is always going be a sore subject, as ten people about a particular car or oil and they'll give you a different stort
 
mrk said:
Had to buy a replacement pull bit for the fuel release cable in the boot. Managed to lose mine inside the car as I was pulling out carpeting.

Sodding £3.99 for this piece of plastic :/

http://robbiekhan.co.uk/root/temp/rps20161129_190958_280.jpg[/IMG[/QUOTE]
I paid about that for an O ring the size of my finger tip the other day :p
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Mirage said:
Hit 120K miles in the X5, ordered some redex oil leak stop in the hope I can stop the minor leak that has plagued the car for over 10 years....
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Why not find the cause of the leak and replace the gasket/o ring? BMW completely advise against any sorts of oil additives as they are untested and could cause damage to vital components.
 
Hedge said:
Fitted a new full Alcantara retrimmed steering wheel to my Megane, looks lovely!

Jack at Royals steering wheels was a pleasure to deal with.
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I've booked my wheel in with Jack too on my 200, can't wait to receive it back :D

I've gone for perforated sides with smooth top/bottom, black stitching + red top band and made thicker. Any pics of yours?
 
shauncr91 said:
I've booked my wheel in with Jack too on my 200, can't wait to receive it back :D

I've gone for perforated sides with smooth top/bottom, black stitching + red top band and made thicker. Any pics of yours?
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Here is my mate's one done by Jack over the summer -

TXdLfYe.jpg
 
Ordered a new pollen filter for the 207. Old one is blacker than coal and full of crap. New one should arrive tomorrow.

Does anyone else ever bother to change these? Everytime I get a car they always look like they have been in since it rolled off the production line. :rolleyes:
 
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