What have you done to your car today?
- Thread starter mattyprice4004
- Start date
Soldato
- Joined
- 29 Jul 2013
- Posts
- 8,607
Noooo!Had the random clunking of the rear suspension fixed, somebody left a new droplink slightly loose (my fault). The car is basically 'finished' in modification terms now, for a long while, there is literally nothing more I want to do to it at the moment. Great I thought, no more spending.
Then the girlfriend let go of the passenger door and bashed the edge off a wall, denting the edge and scraping the paint, epic fail
It's 12c here so plucked up courage to wash car - What a difference - looks like it did when got it back from detailers - also put hub caps back on which helps - roll on end of March and can put alloys back on.
This is my first post with new outlook - I want preview back next to post
This is my first post with new outlook - I want preview back next to post
Caporegime
- Joined
- 20 Oct 2002
- Posts
- 75,997
- Location
- Wish i was in a Ramen Shop Counter
Swapped a 32G to 64G card in my dash cam.
Bigg Red did a fine job with the premium black finish I opted for on my seized caliper refurb. Looking forward to installing them in coming weeks along with the Mintex M1144 and ATE typ 200 fluid. That'll be braking properly sorted for many years.
£144 for that job, normal price for standard finish is £90. Strong pricing either way I have to say.
£144 for that job, normal price for standard finish is £90. Strong pricing either way I have to say.
Soldato
- Joined
- 7 May 2008
- Posts
- 3,151
- Location
- Bristol
MOT day, passed with some minor drop links needed. Happy with that for an old E39! One more year at least!
Had an MOT on the Fiesta, which it passed with these advisories:
Fuel Pipe/s corroded
Play in steering rack inner joint(s)
It's a 2009 1.6 petrol with nearly 141k on the clock now. Is there any point in getting these fixed at the moment? If so, what sort of costs would I be looking at? It's driving fine and nothing is noticeably wrong with the steering for now. The engine will likely be toast before the corroded fuel pipe gets bad enough to be a problem, but I'll get under the car to have a look for myself when the weather is a bit less crappy.
Have also arranged for a replacement windscreen to be fitted to my 320d for tomorrow. All in all, £186 which I don't think is too bad since I'm not going through insurance for that one.
Fuel Pipe/s corroded
Play in steering rack inner joint(s)
It's a 2009 1.6 petrol with nearly 141k on the clock now. Is there any point in getting these fixed at the moment? If so, what sort of costs would I be looking at? It's driving fine and nothing is noticeably wrong with the steering for now. The engine will likely be toast before the corroded fuel pipe gets bad enough to be a problem, but I'll get under the car to have a look for myself when the weather is a bit less crappy.
Have also arranged for a replacement windscreen to be fitted to my 320d for tomorrow. All in all, £186 which I don't think is too bad since I'm not going through insurance for that one.
Pipes always corrode on them, never usually anything to worry about. A wire brush and a thin coating of grease will help prevent further corrosion though. Inner rack joints aren't very common either, I would see how they are at the next MOT, or worry if they start knocking.
Sorted out the high level brake light this morning. Still not as snug a fit as I've seen on other cars but a big improvement. Boot lift struts have given up completely so I've had to order some genuine new ones.
Here's how the original looked. It split a few years ago so I had used araldite to bond it back together.
And the replacement, taken from a 9-3 convertible. Not glaringly obvious, but it is a much better fit.
I also spent some time looking at how on earth I'm going to manage to strip off the inlet manifold sufficiently that I can remove the heatplate without having to pull the fuel rail or injectors off. Looks like I can remove the dip stick tube and then unbolt the wiring loom bracket from the fuel rail which will allow some give. Not sure if I'll need to remove the throttle body or not but I'll need to separate it from the delivery pipe. The stay bracket underneath the manifold along with the lower securing bolts are probably going to be the most difficult. I've ordered two genuine gaskets as I intend to grind the heater elements off the plate and refit it so I don't have to bodge it back together with nuts/washers to space out the bolts or cut the bolts down.
The idle control valve and crank case vent removed. The heatplate is not easily visible but it's a 1/4" thick metal plate sandwiched between the inlet manifold and the head with elements that protrude into the inlet path, somewhat obstructing flow. Cleaning up the mating faces on the head and the manifold with it all still in the car will be awkward.
Evil thing looks like this once the manifold is out of the way. Saps a good 10-20hp too.
Here's how the original looked. It split a few years ago so I had used araldite to bond it back together.
And the replacement, taken from a 9-3 convertible. Not glaringly obvious, but it is a much better fit.
I also spent some time looking at how on earth I'm going to manage to strip off the inlet manifold sufficiently that I can remove the heatplate without having to pull the fuel rail or injectors off. Looks like I can remove the dip stick tube and then unbolt the wiring loom bracket from the fuel rail which will allow some give. Not sure if I'll need to remove the throttle body or not but I'll need to separate it from the delivery pipe. The stay bracket underneath the manifold along with the lower securing bolts are probably going to be the most difficult. I've ordered two genuine gaskets as I intend to grind the heater elements off the plate and refit it so I don't have to bodge it back together with nuts/washers to space out the bolts or cut the bolts down.
The idle control valve and crank case vent removed. The heatplate is not easily visible but it's a 1/4" thick metal plate sandwiched between the inlet manifold and the head with elements that protrude into the inlet path, somewhat obstructing flow. Cleaning up the mating faces on the head and the manifold with it all still in the car will be awkward.
Evil thing looks like this once the manifold is out of the way. Saps a good 10-20hp too.
Lifted from the Subaru thread:
Two things happened today.
1. Painted my Zunsport grills black from the original chrome finish:
2. Wheels have been refurbished from Hyper Silver (old and tatty at that!) to gold:
Over the moon with both. Love the contrast of the wheels on the brake calipers.
Had a great afternoon at Center Gravity with the 911. Brilliant service again and such a pleasure to be around real enthusiasts! My 10 year old suspension required a £40 front right inner rod end to be fitted, otherwise it looks in great nick which is a big relief! So good to be able to have a proper look underneath the car. The real joy is customising the geometry to my needs. The car is much more balanced with a keener turn in and less prone to understeer. The steering has gone from being on the heavy side to light and responsive. There was a slight toe out before which has been changed to slight toe in. Country roads in the summer with the roof down and PSE are going to be an absolute joy!
Soldato
- Joined
- 29 Jul 2013
- Posts
- 8,607
Next time I'm up in Birmingham I might have to pay them a visit, they sound like the dogs danglies from what you and Housey have said in the past.
