Soldato
Some fence panels got blown down last night. Original posts were rotten so I've dug out and replaced. First time I've done fencing. Wasn't too painful but the cost of panels, fence posts and concrete sure adds up.
What "man jobs" have you done today?
- Thread starter jaybee
- Start date
Soldato
I knocked an open bottle of white spirit into my kitchen sink which was filled with water. So some water has now mixed with the white spirit. Will it still be usable or should I throw it?
Soldato
I've been removing clear silicone from my bathroom sink that had black mould build up. Hard work and nothing came off in one piece, bits everywhere. Now I've put No Nonsense sealant remover on to remove residue stuck to the bottom of the tiles and some of the sink. It's brilliant stuff, it melted most of it and I've just put some more on. Then I'm going to wipe it clean, wipe some isopropyl alcohol on so that the new stuff adheres properly and then do my first ever silicone replacement. I wonder if maybe I should spray the area with HG mould remover before the alcohol.
Soldato
Ah, I was going to mask off with tape around the gap and smooth it with my finger dipped in soapy water as I've seen done in some videos. Hmm, would the angled corner of my unibond tool be good enough?
Soldato
Put a couple of new panels on the car port roof.
Really need to strip it down and replace the rubbish corrugated plastic with something better though.
Job for next summer I think....
Really need to strip it down and replace the rubbish corrugated plastic with something better though.
Job for next summer I think....
Soldato
I've got electric rollers and they are great for sure - definitely look at getting power in there.
I'd also advise sticking a second coat of masonry paint on as well and trying to fill in the gaps - I had the same issue and it looks 100 times better with a second coat and the gaps filled. I know it's a pain, believe me as I had to do more than you did! It's up to you though!
Just be advised with the roller shutters depending on the type you get and if you're planning on getting a space heater. Mine have a reasonably large air gap at the top when down which you'll lose a fair bit of heat through - it's not easy to see from the pic below:
Wow nice garage! A lot more space than mine. I don't have room to work in there so no point getting heating. Just waiting for the leccy to visit, I don't think getting electric there will cost that much, it just needs to run about 40ft down the garden fence base then up and into the back of the garage with RCD (at a guess), a couple pairs of sockets and strip lights.
Soldato
I have 9 double sockets in my single garage - three are above work bench - one each side of door - one by back door and a few behind the shelving - you can never have enough sockets - Just fitted a LED tube light separately switched to go with the three fluorescent existing ones - for what they cost in wire and sockets it's a no brainer.
Ah, I was going to mask off with tape around the gap and smooth it with my finger dipped in soapy water as I've seen done in some videos. Hmm, would the angled corner of my unibond tool be good enough?
You might struggle to fit that tool behind the tap.
Masking gives a clean edge but when you lift the tape it doesn't leave a particularly flush finish against the tile.
Using your finger creates a concave profile which again tends to trap water rather than shed it.
This video is explains it well - https://youtu.be/_DI4hfHM_Hg
Soldato
Thanks Sin Chase. Yep, I had just watched that video and it explained exactly what you were saying about concave. I just went out and bought this
Putting it against the joint, the smallest angle seems to be the one to use. I believe I need to turn the bevelled face the other way around from in my photos and run the flat face in the direction of travel.
I'm a little worried about not using masking tape which he says not to use, and I can see why. I just hope I don't get excess smeared where it shouldn't be. I'm going to cut the nozzle at 90 degrees to the size of the tool profile and hope for the best. Wish I had something to practise on first as I've never done it before and don't want to mess it up and have to spend ages removing it. Maybe the inside joints of a cardboard box would work.
Soldato
Thanks Sin Chase. Yep, I had just watched that video and it explained exactly what you were saying about concave. I just went out and bought this
Putting it against the joint, the smallest angle seems to be the one to use. I believe I need to turn the bevelled face the other way around from in my photos and run the flat face in the direction of travel.
I'm a little worried about not using masking tape which he says not to use, and I can see why. I just hope I don't get excess smeared where it shouldn't be. I'm going to cut the nozzle at 90 degrees to the size of the tool profile and hope for the best. Wish I had something to practise on first as I've never done it before and don't want to mess it up and have to spend ages removing it. Maybe the inside joints of a cardboard box would work.
This is good for removal and application
https://www.screwfix.com/p/vitrex-s...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CMaNxPSoid4CFdi6GwodJMALeQ
Cut the nozzle at a right angle, don't use the nozzle to shape the bead. If you profile is a 5mm then cut the nozzle to 5mm also.
Make sure the area is clean but don't spray anything down prior to to application (like soapy water etc)
Run the bead ensuring its filling the gap then use the profile tool.
Keeping it flush against the tile with pressure is key to wiping off the excess. Don't feel like you need to do it in one swipe. Do small sections and clean the excess off the tool frequently. Overspill is what causes the mess. Be careful traversing grout lines as unless the tool you have has skids it will dig in.
Don't worry, if you mess it up up you can always clean it up out when wet and do it again!
Make sure the area is clean but don't spray anything down prior to to application (like soapy water etc)
Run the bead ensuring its filling the gap then use the profile tool.
Keeping it flush against the tile with pressure is key to wiping off the excess. Don't feel like you need to do it in one swipe. Do small sections and clean the excess off the tool frequently. Overspill is what causes the mess. Be careful traversing grout lines as unless the tool you have has skids it will dig in.
Don't worry, if you mess it up up you can always clean it up out when wet and do it again!
Today was pretty productive:
- Second skim on plasterboard
- Finished construction of first stud wall. I swapped from the stud framing product I had to one called Gyplyner Universal which is designed for the single sided boarding I want. Far more sturdy which will make sure tiles stay on the wall! I stopped using tin snips and used the sliding mitre saw. Much more accurate and cleaner lines.
- Laid first 2 hardiebacker boards ensuring 6mm off floor and level. It had to get new fixings as the ones I had wouldn't counter sink. Got some which have ribs under the head so they would self-sink into the fibrous cement.
- Dry placed shower tray again. Ensured square with other wall and sketched onto ply. Trap cutout still good. Worked out where the enclosure would screw into the wall and made sure there would be a stud there.
- Sketched out shower mixer and other parts onto wall.
- I didn't think I'd need to chase the wall but the smaller profile metal framing didn't leave enough room for the fittings and pipework to meet back of mixer. Battery powered angle grinder made short work of the cut out after which I SDSed the rest out. The dust was mental!
- Made up a timber bracket which will both set the pipework at 150mm centres and provide a substrate for the mixer collar/supports to screw into. Used packers in the void to set the right depth ensuring there was still the 4mm of free play as specified in the manual.
- Test installed and called it a day!
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Soldato
You just want a good laugh after I botch it
That's amazing work Sin. Doing all that by yourself, I wouldn't have a clue. I tip my hat to you sir.
Thanks. I put HG Mould remover into the gap last night for good measure. Was still glistening a bit today in the narrow gap which is only 1.5mm, so I found a hairdryer and blasted it dry then put IPA on to make sure it's all degreased.
Ready now to do the silicone. I'm nervous, don't want to mess it up
Got nothing to practise on though so I'll be going for broke.You're right about grout lines. I had some practise runs without any silicone and it bumped a bit in one place. Can I run the vertical sections on the left and right sides of the basin separately from the main horizontal bit? But then I guess there might be an edge where vertical meets horizontal. There's about an inch of vertical each side before it meets the black, looks the same as you can see at the front of the basin. I tried running the tool from vertical to horizontal and couldn't get a smooth motion mostly as my basin has straight edges, it doesn't smoothly contour around like most basins.