What "man jobs" have you done today?

@Mysterae_ To give you an idea I got a price for that pine from a professional of £300, to fell and stack. Two big oaks that came down across a neighbour's access road cost £1000 for immediate, same day attention, fell and toss the wood into my field only. But it was after a big windstorm, neighbours couldn't get vehicles in or out, and God forbid, if they had a fire, a fire tender couldn't get to them, so I was given no choice but to stump up the money. The guys could charge pretty much what the hell they wanted as their cell phones were going none stop :) In fact a grand was probably very fair given the situation. I tackle things like the pine myself, but something like a really big oak that could fall on a neighbour's property done incorrectly I would bite the bullet and pay an expert, making SURE they were fully insured first. You need to physically see their inurance, a big tree on someone's house can get into serious levels of compensation, injuries aside.
 
Thanks @Chris Wilson , that's not too bad at £300 or thereabouts. I'll look to hire someone for a day or two then, a few full height pines need to come down plus an oak that's killing the light. Would be a shame for the oak to go but it has to, plus splitting it for firewood seems a bit of a waste when it could be put to some use.
 
Mysterae_ said:
Thanks @Chris Wilson , that's not too bad at £300 or thereabouts. I'll look to hire someone for a day or two then, a few full height pines need to come down plus an oak that's killing the light. Would be a shame for the oak to go but it has to, plus splitting it for firewood seems a bit of a waste when it could be put to some use.
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Bear in mind I am out in the sticks amongst farming country, so prices here will almost ceratinly be lower than getting someone in a town to do a similar job. Getting the things down is pretty quick, it's what you have to do with them then that takes the time, they always look a LOT bigger on the deck :)
 
Chris Wilson said:
Bear in mind I am out in the sticks amongst farming country, so prices here will almost ceratinly be lower than getting someone in a town to do a similar job. Getting the things down is pretty quick, it's what you have to do with them then that takes the time, they always look a LOT bigger on the deck :)
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What's it like living in rural Shropshire? I'm in Warwickshire and because I can work from home, have always fancied moving out that way.

I absolutely love Ludlow, Shropshire Hills, Wye Valley etc.
 
DXP55 said:
Wrong side of Shropshire - That's south - we are north. :)
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Yes, it's a huge county. I have to say south Shropshire is probably prettier, but generally the whole county is pretty unspoilt because it is still relatively poorly served with high speed road and rail networks to the big cities.

I came here from living as a child in Lytham St.Annes, when it was glorious, (we lived next door to George Formby) to a move to Gatley in Cheshire until some 23 years ago, when Gatley went downhill at an alarming rate, and we drew a 50 mile radius around Gatley looking for somewhere with some space and in a rural location. When we got here my wife spent 14 months commuting in a Fiat Panda to Glossop and back each day until she found a job in Telford!

When we moved there was a marked difference in property prices between rural Cheshire and rural Shropshire, which appears to have now closed somewhat. I can thoroughly recommend it if you like the quiet life without being too far from Birmingham, Manchester and Liverpool, but far enough to be insulated from such places, culturally.

The first few nights here were a shock, no street lights, no noise, no traffic. It was as if the world had ended at night, and was a bit of a shock, as we came from a house with standing traffic up to a major junction most of the day, 100 yards from a motorway junction and less than 100 yards from a train station. We were also under a flight path into Manchester Airport, too. Visitors were literally alarmed by how much aircraft noise there was, we had become unaware of it over time... :)

If you think I might be able to answer any specific questions just ask!
 
The first thing you buy when moving to the sticks is loads of torches - Lost count of how many I have - also never had so many outdoor lights.
Also had generator for years especially at old house where a gentle breeze would knock the power off- Saddest one was a swan getting tangled in power lines and bringing them down. poor thing.
 
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Chris Wilson said:
Bear in mind I am out in the sticks amongst farming country, so prices here will almost ceratinly be lower than getting someone in a town to do a similar job. Getting the things down is pretty quick, it's what you have to do with them then that takes the time, they always look a LOT bigger on the deck :)
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I'm in farming and logging country too so the price should be comparable. As you say I'd rather get someone certified for the job rather than a side job for a logger.
 
Guys,

I have a tonne of floor boards to **** about with for the next year or so. I'm looking to get a proper tool to cut them. I was initially thinking circular saw but unclear whether the reasonable priced Milwaukee gear is height adjustable (Link)

I also spotted some folks using those mini circular saws which look pretty good for the job? (Link)

What would you chose for cutting loads of boards?
 
dLockers said:
Guys,

I have a tonne of floor boards to **** about with for the next year or so. I'm looking to get a proper tool to cut them. I was initially thinking circular saw but unclear whether the reasonable priced Milwaukee gear is height adjustable (Link)

I also spotted some folks using those mini circular saws which look pretty good for the job? (Link)

What would you chose for cutting loads of boards?
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I would choose a circular saw with depth adjustment and also buy a pretty decent straight edge. I'm not sure if the model you link has depth adjustment or not?


Depth adjustment means when cutting freehand you adjust the blade to cut slightly deeper than the wood, which means the saw has less chance of wandering.
 
aVdub said:
I would choose a circular saw with depth adjustment and also buy a pretty decent straight edge. I'm not sure if the model you link has depth adjustment or not?


Depth adjustment means when cutting freehand you adjust the blade to cut slightly deeper than the wood, which means the saw has less chance of wandering.
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Hard to tell but I'm starting to believe it does.
 
dLockers said:
Guys,

I have a tonne of floor boards to **** about with for the next year or so. I'm looking to get a proper tool to cut them. I was initially thinking circular saw but unclear whether the reasonable priced Milwaukee gear is height adjustable (Link)

I also spotted some folks using those mini circular saws which look pretty good for the job? (Link)

What would you chose for cutting loads of boards?
Click to expand...
For that kind of money, why not a mitre saw from the Titan range? Would also make easy work of any angles you have to cut.
 
dLockers said:
Guys,

I have a tonne of floor boards to **** about with for the next year or so. I'm looking to get a proper tool to cut them. I was initially thinking circular saw but unclear whether the reasonable priced Milwaukee gear is height adjustable (Link)

I also spotted some folks using those mini circular saws which look pretty good for the job? (Link)

What would you chose for cutting loads of boards?
Click to expand...
Assuming they aren't in situ... mitre saw.


Circular saw is the wrong tool imo.
 
casper_uk said:
For that kind of money, why not a mitre saw from the Titan range? Would also make easy work of any angles you have to cut.
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200sols said:
Assuming they aren't in situ... mitre saw.


Circular saw is the wrong tool imo.
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Yeah they're in sitchu.

I guess I need to lift the lot, so I could lift them, then chop them on my mitre before refitting. Before you cry sacrilege on chopping them (they are beautiful 4m uncut lengths) - half the floor has patching of some description :(

Alternatively I could lift, sell them, and then put down chipboard t&g...

Zxc6P6a.jpg
 
dLockers said:
Guys,

I have a tonne of floor boards to **** about with for the next year or so. I'm looking to get a proper tool to cut them. I was initially thinking circular saw but unclear whether the reasonable priced Milwaukee gear is height adjustable (Link)

I also spotted some folks using those mini circular saws which look pretty good for the job? (Link)

What would you chose for cutting loads of boards?
Click to expand...
We've just done a bunch of wiring which involved lifting untouched tongue and groove boards. My friend brought his Makita 165mm battery one, and it was one of the nicest tools I've used in ages. Likely to be outside your intended budget but honestly it made the job a pleasure:

- Small and light - barely larger than the blade basically, much smaller than my "small" mains powered saw

- Brushless - really cuts down on noise and fatigue when using

- Has a brake so the blade stops immediately

It was excellent for ripping out the tongues before lifting a board, we also had 3-4m lengths to lift. We've also used it for trimming edges of panels, cutting rebates freehand, etc etc.

For cutting boards themselves I used a multitool with 30mm wood bit, made short enough work of it and didn't touch the neighbouring boards. We only lifted individual boards, not any long cuts along the same joist.
 
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