Could you not have used that for the shower?
What "man jobs" have you done today?
- Thread starter jaybee
- Start date
A rustic solution, sure, but wouldn't have passed the aesthetics check with the MrsCould you not have used that for the shower?
What's your approach to number 2? Have left myself with a large back log of sticks and logs...tempted to just burn it in sitchu lol.
Soldato
- Joined
- 28 Dec 2017
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- 9,210
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- Beds
Had to keep it above reprisal height. Just bring a stepladder if you visit dLockers to enact vengeance!Sorry but looking at that door, all I can see is this
1. All good really. Although despite numerous backwards and forwards they have given me the wrong door mechanism so that when the door is shut, you need a key to unlock it.
This is similar to something I want the back door to be replaced with, the only difference I'd like is a cat flap at the bottom too. If you don't mind me asking, how much was this type of door fitted?
My immediate thought was that the shortest non binary post person in the PO's history has just met a new challenge....Sorry but looking at that door, all I can see is this
They were already cut down that I just hadnt got round to making smaller. So they just needed cutting down into manageable log sizes. I only managed to cut through a few before it started to rain so will probably tackle it tomorrow when it looks a bit drier. Once they are cut up and stored i'll turn my attention to an actual tree in the garden that needs to come down and also some overhanging bushes from a park next to our house.
If you don't need it for a log burner or want to dry them then yeh id just have a little bonfire!
£1170 plus £200 fitting. Tbh it was a proper random outfit. Basically some local lass whose husband in the trade has signed up to be an Endurance door reseller. I don't think she made anywhere near the margin the other firms would expect. In fact in my last house we were quoted £2.5k just for one door, and I've paid £2650 for both...so I did take a bit of a risk.
Man of Honour
- Joined
- 5 Jun 2003
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- 91,549
- Location
- Falling...
Replaced a corroded, leaking and seized stabiliser valve for our electric shower. Fiddly but all fixed. Cost £30.
Associate
- Joined
- 1 Dec 2017
- Posts
- 303
Managed to repair my cordless drill (new capacitor soldered in and a general clean up).
Busy couple of weeks, main frame up for H-Track lift in wetroom.
3 ton fibre reinforced concrete laid in the cellar
Had to totally rewire 3 rooms and sort out plumbling, 4 rads replumbed and new feeds for rads and hot and cold.
Building like I said before is 150 years old and has been at least 8 business from Rediffusion Tv HQ to a oil bunker site.
Theres tons of old wiring, pipes and structural changes all of which im uncovering. Its making this job a bit of a pain really.
The voids under the floor boards are just full of crap inches deep and the dust its everywhere
3 ton fibre reinforced concrete laid in the cellar
Had to totally rewire 3 rooms and sort out plumbling, 4 rads replumbed and new feeds for rads and hot and cold.
Building like I said before is 150 years old and has been at least 8 business from Rediffusion Tv HQ to a oil bunker site.
Theres tons of old wiring, pipes and structural changes all of which im uncovering. Its making this job a bit of a pain really.
The voids under the floor boards are just full of crap inches deep and the dust its everywhere
Bodged my already bodged kitchen floor some more.
The washing machine expired and was uneconomical/unable to get the parts to fix. It’s 11 years old and I’ve already replaced the pump once so while I was annoyed at having to shell out I can’t hold a grudge against it.
I got a new shallower one which sits under the counter better. The location of the feet meant I was getting loud vibration when it span.
My kitchen has three floors.
I believe original floorboards.
Tiles.
Another layer of tiles.
A cheap laminate.
The laminate and the second layer of tiles are incomplete and don’t go under the units, rather it was fitted around them. The washer was sitting on the edge of the laminate pressing it down and it was flexing and vibrating up/down with the spin.
Weighted the laminate down and injected insulating expanding foam underneath to fill the gap and hold it all together. Bodge tastic. Sat the washer on a 500x600 piece of board ontop of a rubber grippy tool mat and stuck that down to the first layer of tiles so it’s all one level and the appliance doesn’t fall into the hole.
Seems to have worked, machine doesn’t move and no vibration based off one wash.
I’d like to redo the floor completely but it’s a monumental amount of work and I can’t afford to pay someone.
Not so much the taking it up and laying a new one, but the removal and refit of all the appliances and cupboards/oven.
The washing machine expired and was uneconomical/unable to get the parts to fix. It’s 11 years old and I’ve already replaced the pump once so while I was annoyed at having to shell out I can’t hold a grudge against it.
I got a new shallower one which sits under the counter better. The location of the feet meant I was getting loud vibration when it span.
My kitchen has three floors.
I believe original floorboards.
Tiles.
Another layer of tiles.
A cheap laminate.
The laminate and the second layer of tiles are incomplete and don’t go under the units, rather it was fitted around them. The washer was sitting on the edge of the laminate pressing it down and it was flexing and vibrating up/down with the spin.
Weighted the laminate down and injected insulating expanding foam underneath to fill the gap and hold it all together. Bodge tastic. Sat the washer on a 500x600 piece of board ontop of a rubber grippy tool mat and stuck that down to the first layer of tiles so it’s all one level and the appliance doesn’t fall into the hole.
Seems to have worked, machine doesn’t move and no vibration based off one wash.
I’d like to redo the floor completely but it’s a monumental amount of work and I can’t afford to pay someone.
Not so much the taking it up and laying a new one, but the removal and refit of all the appliances and cupboards/oven.
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Concrete 3 to 4 inchs deep, so just protecting against any cracks really, no need but thought might as well have some mixed in
Made some progress on the bathroom though hit a stumbling block when it came to actually plumb and I think I now have 4 redundant 22mm holes in a wall
Floorboards switched for ply so save 10mm or so. Tileboard and tiles going down eventually. Very small room.
Left 1ft panels at either end as toilet/basin pipe work under one and a radiator on the wall I'm standing against on the other.
This was a welcome surprise from the builders meaning I can remove this piece and insert something else assembled with more room. Also removed the basin waste pipe which is actually lead and very bendy.
I was planing to then tee off the two pipes running under the window but only one is 22mm, the other is 28mm and neither appear to actually be copper
Anyone seen this before?
Floorboards switched for ply so save 10mm or so. Tileboard and tiles going down eventually. Very small room.
Left 1ft panels at either end as toilet/basin pipe work under one and a radiator on the wall I'm standing against on the other.
This was a welcome surprise from the builders meaning I can remove this piece and insert something else assembled with more room. Also removed the basin waste pipe which is actually lead and very bendy.
I was planing to then tee off the two pipes running under the window but only one is 22mm, the other is 28mm and neither appear to actually be copper
Anyone seen this before?
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Separate post for suggestions, as mentioned above being a fairly novice plumber and wanting more room to work I was planning to tee off the H/C feed in the bathroom and then take it back behind the wall in to the boiler cupboard where a concealed shower valve will be.
But given these pipes don't appear to be copper and are awkward sizes (one 28mm one 22mm) I think it would be better to actually just tee-off where the builders have tee'd off for H/C feeds to the kitchen island downstairs.
And to then remove this odd assembly and use elbows to run 15mm feeds back in to the bathroom under the window for concealed bath valves and then round to the basin and toilet. Oddly the cold feed to the boiler actually comes up opposite this wall with the shower.
Can anyone see an issue removing this, there appears to be an elbow/drain valve on the bottom but I think this is redundant or should I leave something similar behind and cap/plug it off? This is on the Tee pictured above below floor level.
But given these pipes don't appear to be copper and are awkward sizes (one 28mm one 22mm) I think it would be better to actually just tee-off where the builders have tee'd off for H/C feeds to the kitchen island downstairs.
And to then remove this odd assembly and use elbows to run 15mm feeds back in to the bathroom under the window for concealed bath valves and then round to the basin and toilet. Oddly the cold feed to the boiler actually comes up opposite this wall with the shower.
Can anyone see an issue removing this, there appears to be an elbow/drain valve on the bottom but I think this is redundant or should I leave something similar behind and cap/plug it off? This is on the Tee pictured above below floor level.
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Thanks, trying not to get them dirty so SWMBO doesn't crucify me.
Soldato
- Joined
- 25 Sep 2012
- Posts
- 3,213
Looks like old imperial 3/4 and 1/2 inch galvanised. Better off removing it including the bit that points down(probably went somewhere and someone capped it off). Might have some galvanic corrosion happening on that T, the pipes are probably rusted inside also.Separate post for suggestions, as mentioned above being a fairly novice plumber and wanting more room to work I was planning to tee off the H/C feed in the bathroom and then take it back behind the wall in to the boiler cupboard where a concealed shower valve will be.
But given these pipes don't appear to be copper and are awkward sizes (one 28mm one 22mm) I think it would be better to actually just tee-off where the builders have tee'd off for H/C feeds to the kitchen island downstairs.
And to then remove this odd assembly and use elbows to run 15mm feeds back in to the bathroom under the window for concealed bath valves and then round to the basin and toilet. Oddly the cold feed to the boiler actually comes up opposite this wall with the shower.
Can anyone see an issue removing this, there appears to be an elbow/drain valve on the bottom but I think this is redundant or should I leave something similar behind and cap/plug it off? This is on the Tee pictured above below floor level.
