What "man jobs" have you done today?

Looks like old imperial 3/4 and 1/2 inch galvanised. Better off removing it including the bit that points down(probably went somewhere and someone capped it off). Might have some galvanic corrosion happening on that T, the pipes are probably rusted inside also.

Ta, will take the grinder to it tomorrow!

Edit: I didn't expect them to be quite so thick @gingergundog

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Completely impractical for most but it almost seems a shame to rip out solid pipes like that, compared to the thin easily damaged stuff we put in these days. I guess that's the trade off, we sacrifice robustness for being able to tap in where we want.

I'd have left them in place if I were able to tap in to them but would have been there all day with my multi-tool trying to chop them :cry:

Laughably my O/H wouldn't drink water from the bathroom taps (fed directly from the mains) but following the kitchen being removed and the island behind installed the cold-feed downstairs was actually now being fed water that passed through these pipes so should have been less preferable but still the kitchen tap was king :p /allhailthekitchentap.
 
Put a deposit down for some carpets to be fitted soon. Decided to take the opportunity to fix some wobbly floorboards. Cue me putting a screw through a central heating pipe and much swearing. Plumber coming tomorrow to sort my mess out. Annoyingly this seems to mean no hot water from my boiler either!
 
Hi all, a couple of weeks ago I caught the strip at the bottom of my door and broke the plastic end piece off. I can 3d print a replacement, but I can't figure out how the strip is attached to the door, see attached pics. I'm assuming I need to get it off to remove the bit that's left as it does not want to budge. It's a rockdoor too if that makes sense difference.

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@theone8181

It looks like some kind of fixing bar / strip screwed to the door then the weather strip attached to that.

The strip appears to be metal (aluminium?) So probably Not clipped on. If you open the door fully can you slide the strip off? By the profile and finding bar that looks the most logical way?
 
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Put a deposit down for some carpets to be fitted soon. Decided to take the opportunity to fix some wobbly floorboards. Cue me putting a screw through a central heating pipe and much swearing. Plumber coming tomorrow to sort my mess out. Annoyingly this seems to mean no hot water from my boiler either!

Pipe cutter and some push-fit couplings would probably cheaper. If you'd have said I'd have come and sorted it for you :cool:
 
Pipe cutter and some push-fit couplings would probably cheaper. If you'd have said I'd have come and sorted it for you :cool:

Not a bad shout but it's 22mm copper pipe very close to the floorboard, so am assuming they may solder a piece on to keep the outer diameter down and not fouling the floorboard. The central heating system also needs refilling and restocking with inhibitor now which I don't think I can do myself very easily. He's a family friend so hopefully be a reasonable price. Lesson learnt..
 
@theone8181

It looks like some kind of fixing bar / strip screwed to the door then the weather strip attached to that.

The strip appears to be metal (aluminium?) So probably Not clipped on. If you open the door fully can you slide the strip off? By the profile and finding bar that looks the most logical way?
I've tried sliding it, but it didn't bysge. Might have another go as I might slide one way. Can't see any fixings either.
 
Busy couple of weeks, main frame up for H-Track lift in wetroom.

3 ton fibre reinforced concrete laid in the cellar

Had to totally rewire 3 rooms and sort out plumbling, 4 rads replumbed and new feeds for rads and hot and cold.

Building like I said before is 150 years old and has been at least 8 business from Rediffusion Tv HQ to a oil bunker site.

Theres tons of old wiring, pipes and structural changes all of which im uncovering. Its making this job a bit of a pain really.

The voids under the floor boards are just full of crap inches deep and the dust its everywhere :(

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Why aren't your pipes insulated?
 
Why aren't your pipes insulated?
Pipework internal to a house doesn't need to be insulated, and if you did it with copper you'd have to increase the notch depth on your joists, which isn't great structurally.

What they should be is clipped to the joists

Also @zuludawn looks like your chipboard lands exactly on a pipe in one section so you cant screw it down. Is it glued also?
 
Pipework internal to a house doesn't need to be insulated, and if you did it with copper you'd have to increase the notch depth on your joists, which isn't great structurally.

What they should be is clipped to the joists

Also @zuludawn looks like your chipboard lands exactly on a pipe in one section so you cant screw it down. Is it glued also?
All the boards are just temp, I have got to have the fuse board moved from downstairs so I can lower the ceiling.

The wires and armour cable have got to be extended so it can be mounted above them upstairs.

The whole of hallway flloorboards have got to be replaced and 5 offices plywooded and carpet tiles laid, so the pipe work will be clipped and extra bracing on the joists to level everything up and support the boards :)

Thats after I finish the wetroom and re-tile another toilet downstairs.

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Block of wood pushed to one end and "tap" with a hammer to see if it frees up. Looks a bit too substantial to clip on / over the fixing rail
Good shout. I actually wondered if there was an end stop so it could only slide one way. It will probably be the weekend when I try it though as cba when getting in from work.
 
Had 2 blokes around today to quote for consumer unit replacements... the quotes are just outrageous.

One lad wanted £425 but threw a fit when I asked him about an outdoor socket on a radial (I wanted the uplift but he assumed I was asking for it for 'free'), one at £510 quoted unseen, and then some proper daft ones coming in at like £700. The latest chap has just quoted £1170!!!

@LuckyBenski do you have a recommendation for a sparks?
 
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