What "man jobs" have you done today?

dLockers said:
I haven't done the maths but I'm pretty sure I'm going to half and half these boards with chunky chipboard as I cba anymore.

Leaving the foam to fully harden before knocking it off. Every joist was between 29 - 31.5 on the diagonal each time lol. Knees are busted so I've called it.

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Also to get actual feedback as opposed to my troll:

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Grommets :cry: you part time troll
 
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The whole raised sockets seems a bit smdaft on some houses. I gather it's for wheelchair/less able bodied people, but that's fine in a bungalow. My parents bought a 2 floor house and it's like that, if you struggle with mobility, you're not going to buy a house with stairs I'd have thought. Also what's the purpose of earthing the backbox, surely to touch it you'd gave to have the socket/switch off anyway and likely have the socket/switch disconnected to get access. I always though it was a case of earth the box first, then tap off that to the front?
 
theone8181 said:
The whole raised sockets seems a bit smdaft on some houses. I gather it's for wheelchair/less able bodied people, but that's fine in a bungalow. My parents bought a 2 floor house and it's like that, if you struggle with mobility, you're not going to buy a house with stairs I'd have thought. Also what's the purpose of earthing the backbox, surely to touch it you'd gave to have the socket/switch off anyway and likely have the socket/switch disconnected to get access. I always though it was a case of earth the box first, then tap off that to the front?
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If you earth the box and send that to the sockets then it could fail/rust/be damaged and leave the circuit unprotected. Better to carry the CPC from point to point and tap off that to the backbox.
 
theone8181 said:
The whole raised sockets seems a bit smdaft on some houses. I gather it's for wheelchair/less able bodied people, but that's fine in a bungalow. My parents bought a 2 floor house and it's like that, if you struggle with mobility, you're not going to buy a house with stairs I'd have thought. Also what's the purpose of earthing the backbox, surely to touch it you'd gave to have the socket/switch off anyway and likely have the socket/switch disconnected to get access. I always though it was a case of earth the box first, then tap off that to the front?
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Words like daft are interesting. Like who decided you need to bend your ass over to plug junk in? Anyway ima wire that dud old socket in just for you, in case you visit:

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Zoom in and you'll see the original 1940s socket went to that spot too..so RIP heritage with my new sockets too.

Also btw that other pipe is gas and is well and truly still connected. FML.
 
I love the raised sockets. There's some sockets in the 1930's place I'm in right now and they're in the bloody skirting board! It's tough to plug some things in because the wire of the appliance bends so sharply against the floor!
 
UberTiger said:
I love the raised sockets. There's some sockets in the 1930's place I'm in right now and they're in the bloody skirting board! It's tough to plug some things in because the wire of the appliance bends so sharply against the floor!
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A man of discerning tastes! You're welcome to visit at any point. Bring floorboards and spax screws tho :(
 
Richie said:
And some new knees...
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dLockers said:
I haven't done the maths but I'm pretty sure I'm going to half and half these boards with chunky chipboard as I cba anymore.

Leaving the foam to fully harden before knocking it off. Every joist was between 29 - 31.5 on the diagonal each time lol. Knees are busted so I've called it.

2qLMphs.jpeg

Also to get actual feedback as opposed to my troll:

hYoMRwr.jpeg
Click to expand...

Id just get it all done in chipboard to save you having a lip /differential in flooring heights. Remember to use d4 flooring adhesive when tying the chipboard to joists.

For the socket I believe you don't need to earth the backbox if its a non conducting faceplate. I could be wrong on that though..
 
Buffman said:
Id just get it all done in chipboard to save you having a lip /differential in flooring heights. Remember to use d4 flooring adhesive when tying the chipboard to joists.

For the socket I believe you don't need to earth the backbox if its a non conducting faceplate. I could be wrong on that though..
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Yeah potentially. I have 8 decent lengths left so I'll see where I stand. I left 6 boards nailed as they are such a pain to get up. I think I'll end up overboarding the lot in 9mm ply because I may just do LVT throughout. Expense is also a big consideration ATM...

I wasn't sure on the earthing. I've never done it before but the first socket I removed had an earthed backbox, so I thought I'd do it on the basis that I didn't want to do a worser job than the chap who wired it up the last time.
 
John Ward says to earth the back box, so that's good enough for me :)

From memory the logic is that it's quite common for people to remove the sockets from the wall when they're decorating, at which point, if you don't have a fly-lead to the backbox, you lose the earth
 
LuckyBenski said:
@dLockers I've got about ten hundred metres of earth singles (green and yellow cable for earth tails) if you want some. Minimum order was 25m so I'll have loads spare.
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Yes please! Altho not for a decade or so as that's how far out I've pushed every other job based on how mashed my hands are :cry:

Seriously tho I'll drop you a ping when I'm about to rewire the living room :cool: thank you.
 
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dLockers said:
Chaps, should I blast this with foam? Dpc is very high ....

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Sorry to bombard the thread but am sitting downstairs sipping a coffee freezing my knackers off. I've PIR'ed the lot but still have a gap between the end joist and the solid wall. The DPC is 1 brick level above the internal floor.

Can I squirt a bunch of foam between the end joist and the solid brick wall? Or will that stop the wall from breathing?

I just want to stop the air draught tbh. I've bought vent extenders for the airbrick.
 
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