I repainted the hardware on my garden gate on Sunday afternoon using a couple of year old can of Sandtex black exterior gloss, and come this morning it's sill tacky - is this likely to be down to using old paint? I mixed it well shaking the can and stirring. It's not been especially warm here, maybe 15C to 20C from the morning to evening, but I thought the curing wasn't reliant on heat?.
What do you reckon I should do? Give it some more time, or is there some other trick I can use?
Yep...
Wr have a silly amount of huge Segestria Florentina (Tube Web Spiders), but slowly being replaced/eaten by the more aggressive False Widows...
Solvent based stuff just takes ages to dry.
Thanks gents. I'll give it some more time.It could be older paint but many modern solvent based paints take a long time to dry. I repainted aluminium patio furniture with the solvent based version of Hammerite this year and had to keep the parts in my garage for 3 to 4 days before moving them outside and they didn't fully harden for a week.
If the weather isn't damaging them I would just wait as using anything to accelerate the process isn't going to work well on thicker paint.
Moved over 4 tonnes of grit (/sharp) sand and cement ( 171bags) into position ready for mixing. I'll be doing a 5:1 mix with a little plasticiser in it.
Ive bought some prebagged larson primer rather than mixing my own primer with SBR.
Yeah never done it before. Tiled a couple walls in house before thoIs this your first time doing groundwork etc?
How are you finding it? First time using a whacker etc?Yeah never done it before. Tiled a couple walls in house before tho
Seems fine. There is a lot of misinformation on YouTube but pavingexpert.com covers most topics.How are you finding it? First time using a whacker etc?
That look redicMoved over 4 tonnes of grit (/sharp) sand and cement ( 171bags) into position ready for mixing. I'll be doing a 5:1 mix with a little plasticiser in it.
Ive bought some prebagged larson primer rather than mixing my own primer with SBR.
Wires meant to be 50mm below surface though. Less of an issue when wires are exposed, but if boarding the joists, it'd be too easy to put a screw through the wires.The notch is probably fine and is how you would do it if you were running a pipe. Check the regs for your joist thickness but it does t look to big so it’s probably fine.
The screw on the other hand is not ok.
Here's hoping I haven't over ordered!That look redic
It’s a loft joist, not a floor joist. The loft joists are probably only 70mm in total, there isn’t 50mm from the top or bottom. The correct approach is to raise the floor for loft boards, they shouldn’t have needed to notch or put a cable through them and being realistic, without cutting the cable and rejoining it, they aren’t going to be putting it through the joist anyway.Wires meant to be 50mm below surface though. Less of an issue when wires are exposed, but if boarding the joists, it'd be too easy to put a screw through the wires.
It’s a loft joist, not a floor joist. The loft joists are probably only 70mm in total, there isn’t 50mm from the top or bottom. The correct approach is to raise the floor for loft boards, they shouldn’t have needed to notch or put a cable through them and being realistic, without cutting the cable and rejoining it, they aren’t going to be putting it through the joist anyway.
My point was more about the joist probably isn’t structurally compromised but it can be reinforced easily if you are concerned.
A while ago I fitted the extractor ducting seen in the top right of the image as a temporary fix as I knew the loft boards would need replacing eventually.
I should start a thread on this escapade, who knows what else I'll find! Mummified remains of the last owner?!